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Thread: Question on making a cut

  1. #1
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    Question on making a cut

    I am in the early process of building an easel for my 15 month old daughter. I am using the plan from NYW. I have a concern on one of the cuts. This cut is for a chalkboard frame that also allows paper from a roll to be fed through the frame. This requires a cut through the frame at the top and the bottom. The plans call for making the cut after the frame is assembled. I have a few concerns:
    1. It seems unsafe to do it the way it is shown the plans.
    2. It seems very easy to scratch the chalkboard from the blade.
    3. The plans say the cut would be 1/16" wide but a thin kerf blade is 3/32" wide. I am guessing this is just an oversight in the plans?
    I have attached the two pages that talk about making these cuts. I was wondering if anyone can give me some guidance on this. I am pretty new to woodworking and do not want to do something dangerous. Thanks in advance!

    Steve
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    You are absolutely correct, that is a dangerous way to cut. The kickback potential is huge.

    If I were going to make that frame, I'd make the two frame sides with the slot in the center by gluing up two long strips with a spacer at each end to make the slot. The spacers would determine the width of the slot and you could make both sides up ahead of time and miter them as needed. Of course careful measurements would be required but nothing too hard. Hope that gives you an idea to work with.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett Baldwin
    You are absolutely correct, that is a dangerous way to cut. The kickback potential is huge.

    If I were going to make that frame, I'd make the two frame sides with the slot in the center by gluing up two long strips with a spacer at each end to make the slot. The spacers would determine the width of the slot and you could make both sides up ahead of time and miter them as needed. Of course careful measurements would be required but nothing too hard. Hope that gives you an idea to work with.
    Brett,
    Thanks for the response. So are you saying to make 1/2"W x 7/8"H piece with the 1/4"W x 3/8"D rabbit and then glue it to a 3/4W x 7/8"H piece with 1/16" spacers and then after it dries, rip that side so the total width is 3/4"W? It sounds like that would work even though I have never done anything like that. Like I said I am a new woodworker so I hope my questions are not too basic. Thanks!

    Steve

  4. #4
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    I'm building my daughter an easel for Christmas as well, without the NYW plans. What I am planning on doing is putting two clips off of clipboards on the top rail, bearing against the panel. That way we can hang whatever kind of paper she wants to draw on. Just another way you might think about.

    I haven't seen Nahm's plans so he might have already thought of this, but the other thing I'm doing is making one side of the easel a chalkboard and making the other side dry-erase. Gives her a little more variety!
    Last edited by Bart Sharp; 12-19-2005 at 3:31 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Sharp
    I'm building my daughter an easel for Christmas as well, without the NYW plans. What I am planning on doing is putting two clips off of clipboards on the top rail, bearing against the panel. That way we can hang whatever kind of paper she wants to draw on. Just another way you might think about.

    I haven't seen Nahm's plans so he might have already thought of this, but the other thing I'm going is making one side of the easel a chalkboard and making the other side dry-erase. Gives her a little more variety!
    It has a roll of paper up top and allowing the paper through the chalkboard is nice touch. I think I may do what you said and just make some kind of clip system. I have not yet decided if I want to make one side dry erase. If you look at some of the ones people made on the link below, one guy did one with a dry erase as well. Thanks for the input.

    http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?601

    Steve

  6. #6
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    Steve, I hadn't looked at the drawing carefully so the way I was thinking needs a modification. I'd suggest three 1/4" strips. Two at 7/8" by 1/4" and one 1/2" by 1/4". Mark off the 1/16" recess in the 1/2" strip that you need for the paper and remove that with a block plane and chisel or a sander if you don't have a block plane yet (I'd highly recommend one though, great for these little shaving jobs). Once you have the recess set, glue the three 1/4" pieces together for the 3/4" overall thickness and miter according to the plan. I'm sorry I can't show you exactly what I mean but I'm posting from work. If you need more clarification, I'll try to put something together tonight. Happy shavings.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett Baldwin
    Steve, I hadn't looked at the drawing carefully so the way I was thinking needs a modification. I'd suggest three 1/4" strips. Two at 7/8" by 1/4" and one 1/2" by 1/4". Mark off the 1/16" recess in the 1/2" strip that you need for the paper and remove that with a block plane and chisel or a sander if you don't have a block plane yet (I'd highly recommend one though, great for these little shaving jobs). Once you have the recess set, glue the three 1/4" pieces together for the 3/4" overall thickness and miter according to the plan. I'm sorry I can't show you exactly what I mean but I'm posting from work. If you need more clarification, I'll try to put something together tonight. Happy shavings.
    Brett,
    That makes perfect sense. The only concern I have now is ripping 1/4" wide strips with my table saw. I thought ripping pieces that thin were risky on a table saw. Thanks!

    Steve

  8. #8
    Steve,

    If you choose to follow those plans there are blades available with 1/16" kerf. The Diablo 7-1/4" blades are an example. Both the D0724 (7-1/4 X 24t) and D0740 (7-1/4 X 40t) are .059" kerf and the smaller diameter will leave less to square up with the hand saw.

    Charles M
    Freud America, Inc.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles M From Freud
    Steve,

    If you choose to follow those plans there are blades available with 1/16" kerf. The Diablo 7-1/4" blades are an example. Both the D0724 (7-1/4 X 24t) and D0740 (7-1/4 X 40t) are .059" kerf and the smaller diameter will leave less to square up with the hand saw.

    Charles M
    Freud America, Inc.
    Charles,
    So with that said are saying to just go for it and make the cut? I am not completly scared to do it I just wanted to get a feeling how dangerous it was. If I did it I would stand on the side so even if it kicked back it should not hit me. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being the most risky) I figured this was about a 3 or 4. Any thoughts on that? Also thanks for the blade info!

    Steve

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Kamp
    Brett,
    That makes perfect sense. The only concern I have now is ripping 1/4" wide strips with my table saw. I thought ripping pieces that thin were risky on a table saw. Thanks!

    Steve
    Not if you are careful,just don't include your fingers.
    .. If walking is good for your health, the postman would be immortal.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles M From Freud
    Steve,

    If you choose to follow those plans there are blades available with 1/16" kerf. The Diablo 7-1/4" blades are an example. Both the D0724 (7-1/4 X 24t) and D0740 (7-1/4 X 40t) are .059" kerf and the smaller diameter will leave less to square up with the hand saw.

    Charles M
    Freud America, Inc.
    Charles,
    I also wanted to ask if there are any problems using that blade on my table saw? I have a DeWalt DW744 10" saw which has a 5/8" arbor. Thanks!

    Steve

  12. #12
    Steve, I concur with Brett's idea of making it up from multiple pieces instead of risking a cut like that. (I can just picture the whole assembly getting shot across your shop at a couple hundred miles an hour.)

    As far as ripping 1/4" thin strips, there are two safe ways I do it. I rip a LOT of 1/4" wide strips and thinner, and have learned by my mistakes. (There's still a foot-long strip of 3/4" x 1/8" walnut lost somewhere in my shop as the result doing everything the wrong way, before I got smart.) One way is to rip a wide board, and let the 1/4" piece be on the "waste" side of the blade -- the side away from the fence. That way you're dealing with a 2" or 3" or 4" wide board between the blade and the fence. The other way, and better if you need multiple pieces and don't have a very accurate, repeatable fence (like an Incra) is to set the blade 1/4" from the fence, then use the Grrripper to guide the wood through the blade. The Grrripper seems a bit pricy on first glance, but it's the best $50 I've spent for the shop in a long time. I also strongly recommend using a splitter. I use the MicroJig splitter, from the same company that makes the Grrripper.

    However you do it, I'd recommend against the method described in the book, especially if you're new to the sport of wood flinging. I hope this helps.

    - Vaughn
    Last edited by Vaughn McMillan; 12-19-2005 at 5:36 PM.

  13. #13
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    I too have a problem with the safety issue the way the plans describe it. I DO think it can be cut safely on the TS though (assuming you get a 1/16" blade). I would push the fence back from the blade so that the frame just fits between it and the blade. Then with the blade raised up line up the frame for the start of the cut and mark the fence with a pencil or piece of tape. Then do the same thing for the end of the cut. Remove the frame, position the fence to get the slot in the right location, then LOWER the blade beneath the top. Line up the back edge of the frame with the end-of-cut mark and clamp a stop block to the fence to stop the frame at that point. Then back the frame up to the starting mark and clamp it to the fence (a couple of Quik-Grips would work best). Then power up the saw and raise the blade up through the frame. With both hands on the frame, have a helper pop the clamps, then slowly push the frame through until you hit the stop block. Firmly hold the frame while your helper kills the power and the blade comes to a stop.
    Use the fence Luke

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Shepard
    I too have a problem with the safety issue the way the plans describe it. I DO think it can be cut safely on the TS though (assuming you get a 1/16" blade). I would push the fence back from the blade so that the frame just fits between it and the blade. Then with the blade raised up line up the frame for the start of the cut and mark the fence with a pencil or piece of tape. Then do the same thing for the end of the cut. Remove the frame, position the fence to get the slot in the right location, then LOWER the blade beneath the top. Line up the back edge of the frame with the end-of-cut mark and clamp a stop block to the fence to stop the frame at that point. Then back the frame up to the starting mark and clamp it to the fence (a couple of Quik-Grips would work best). Then power up the saw and raise the blade up through the frame. With both hands on the frame, have a helper pop the clamps, then slowly push the frame through until you hit the stop block. Firmly hold the frame while your helper kills the power and the blade comes to a stop.
    Doug,
    I appreciate the feedback and this seems like a very good and safe way to do this. The one question I have is would you make this cut with chalkboard out or in from the fence. If I did it in, I would only have 3/16" between the fence and the blade. Doing it with the chalkboard side out seems easier to setup. Any thoughts on that? Thanks!

    Steve

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan
    Steve, I concur with Brett's idea of making it up from multiple pieces instead of risking a cut like that. (I can just picture the whole assembly getting shot across your shop at a couple hundred miles an hour.)

    As far as ripping 1/4" thin strips, there are two safe ways I do it. I rip a LOT of 1/4" wide strips and thinner, and have learned by my mistakes. (There's still a foot-long strip of 3/4" x 1/8" walnut lost somewhere in my shop as the result doing everything the wrong way, before I got smart.) One way is to rip a wide board, and let the 1/4" piece be on the "waste" side of the blade -- the side away from the fence. That way you're dealing with a 2" or 3" or 4" wide board between the blade and the fence. The other way, and better if you need multiple pieces and don't have a very accurate, repeatable fence (like an Incra) is to set the blade 1/4" from the fence, then use the Grrripper to guide the wood through the blade. The Grrripper seems a bit pricy on first glance, but it's the best $50 I've spent for the shop in a long time. I also strongly recommend using a splitter. I use the MicroJig splitter, from the same company that makes the Grrripper.

    However you do it, I'd recommend against the method described in the book, especially if you're new to the sport of wood flinging. I hope this helps.

    - Vaughn
    Vaughn,
    Thanks for the advice. It is funny you mentioned the Grrriper. I was looking at that yesterday at Woodcraft online. I plan on getting one of these regardless of how I decide to do that cut. Thanks!

    Steve

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