Maybe I'm being overly anal again. You tell me...

[John Lucas]

Let me know how you make out, I found trying to tweak out the last couple thousandths using a rubber mallet and 3/8" bolts to be less then an exacting process. That said, when I checked mine a day or so after I got it it was off about half of what yours is, it still is, but I did try. I found just tightening the bolts moved it back to it's original possition. Kind of like losing weight, tends to return to the original.

Bob,
Here is a case where Ithink a regular good old steel hammer and small taps do you better. And I do this with bolts loose and then more as I tighten them. It takes maybe an hour but once tightened all the way, it is in.

[Gary Herrmann]

Well, after fidding with the saw for awhile (30-45 minutes?), I got it down to being out by .001. I actually let it go to about .006 the other way to account for movement when I retightened the bolts. Maybe somebody has a more scientific method, but I'll be happy with .001.

[Frank Chaffee]

Gary,
I understand why it may not be relevant to the cut at hand to extrapolate to eight feet, but I too, find it is much more meaningful to visualize 1° as 2 3/32” in 10 feet than 1/64”/inch.

I sympathize with you regarding the frustrating process of locking a casting in position when zinc plated washers are bearing on a rough, or even somewhat smoothed casting. On machines that require this type of adjustment more often than very rarely, the casting will be machined flat and square to the screw axis and the washer will also be machined flat rather than stamped. This costs more than our hobby shops can afford, however.

Lou Sansone has brought up an interesting question regarding cuts made with use of miter slots: Will the back end of the blade scar or burn the already cut board as it passes thru? Personally I think that the blade should be as true to square as possible to prevent this or its opposite from happening. The rip fence presents another condition, that in which a board may expand or open up from having been cut, and so requires a riving knife or splitter to keep the board from pressing into the blade. In this situation I can see that a fence could be spread open from the blade.

I am inexperienced here, but pay attention when you all talk about this.

Frank

[Jim Bell]

I feel you did yourself a huge favor correcting the adjustment on your saw. Now add a good blade to the mix and enjoy. It is and has been most table saw accidents occur due to poor adjustments and cheap saw blades. I like to wax my table too.
Jim