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Thread: Frame and Panel beginner

  1. #1

    Frame and Panel beginner

    Hey all, I just registered here- been lurking for a few weeks and this seems like a good place to ask my question:

    I'm a beginning woodworker- I've got basic machine skills and I"ve done most of the finish work in my house. This is a hobby for me, but it's a hobby I'd like to get better at.

    I'd like to practice Frame & Panel construction, as it appears to be an integral construction technique to cabinets and other furniture. I understand the basic concept, and I've been in the shop practicing on some scrap pieces. I'm not using any frame/panel bits- just going with regular square stock for the frame and plywood for the panel.

    How loose should the panel be? Should it move freely in the frame? The plywood I'm using is a hair thinner than my 1/4" slotting bit.

    How much gap should I be leaving between the panel and the bottom of the slot it's seated in? I'm assuming the gap would be smaller with a plywood panel than with a hardwood panel.

    I've seen a couple examples of joinery for the frame, but would biscuits be acceptable for this? Seems like it would be a shortcut, and not the way to go if I want to hone my joinery skills.

    Thanks for taking the time!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    313
    A couple of things....

    I have had good luck with "space balls" (which are small rubber BBs you put in the slot) They stop the rattle between the panel and the frame. I have also used thin rubber weather proofing strips as well.

    I would not use a biscuit for the frame (But it is faster and just requires a bisquit joiner) . M&T is better, but requires more time, skill, tools (and as you stated a good way to hone your skills)....

    In between the 2 you could look into a loose tenon system like the BeadLock system (http://www.beadlock.com/) I've used it on odd joints and have had no problems.

    Hope this helps

    -jj

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
    Posts
    2,347
    binky, if you're using plywood, you don't need to worry about the gap as it's not going to be expanding and contracting as much as solid wood would. the whole reason for frame and panel construction is to allow for the natural tendency of solid wood to expand and contract without pulling apart the construction as an entirely solid panel would. although some purists will WINCE at the idea of biscuiting a frame and panel assembly, it's perfectly LEGITIMATE - bill hylton writes about doing exactly that in his FANTASTIC text on chest of drawers.

    it's definitely a LOT faster than raising panels with the router, although i think that if you stick around here long enough, you'll eventually have to consider either going the router route, the tablesaw route or... the HANDPLANE route as i'm exploring!

    cut the slot fairly tight as you don't want the panel to RATTLE atrociously every time you move it. BTW, you're correct in that raised panels are important to FINER furniture construction. good luck!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntsville, AL (The Sun and Fun Capital of The South)
    Posts
    3,203

    Name

    In order to be a boni fide member of SMC you MUST use a real first and last name. Please PM Jackie Outten with that information and she will update your profile accordingly.

    p.s I deleted your signature line which contained profanity.


    Last edited by Ken Salisbury; 12-31-2005 at 11:42 AM.

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