how do I choose a saw?

[Jeff Borges]

fortunately.. I found sawmill creek.. thanks for you opinions alan.. I think my first step is to get a couple small saws and test .. (won't it be just so bad if I have to buy a few...lol) Anyhow.. just rec'd a LN 112 scraping plane.. I happened to be on ebay right as a gentlemen put it on buy it now.. purchased it for 110 plus shipping... (gloat gloat)

Anyhow, seeing the quality LieNielsen puts out.. I will seek their products first.. perhaps I don't need to spend so much.. but as was said earlier..they are ready to go

I did find a Disston 68 this past weekend at a garage sale..pretty rusty, so it will need some tlc.. has anyone ever tried the table saw top restorer products? I am wondering if it would work similarily on a rusty saw?

Also, as to saw sets.. any preferences?

[Alan DuBoff]

Anyhow, seeing the quality LieNielsen puts out.. I will seek their products first.. perhaps I don't need to spend so much.. but as was said earlier..they are ready to go

You know, the price is not worth worrying about, IMO, since the LN an Adria both make fine saws, some of the finer western style saws. LN makes real quality stuff, and it's got class in some cases. Case in point is the little leather cases for their saws...it's not for everyone, but there's a group of of folks that appreciate that type of stuff.

I did find a Disston 68 this past weekend at a garage sale..pretty rusty, so it will need some tlc.

Excellent, I actually like the Disston 68 a lot, it's an excellent saw. Getting harder to find and folks bidding them up on ebay. A guy paid over $100 for a No 71 (offset handle) on ebay recentely <ouch !=""> which is rarer, but it really becomes collectable value at that point. I'd rather have the LN for a user myself, but would like a 71 from the standpoint of a collectable. LN makes some quality saws (originally designed mostly by Pete Taran, the same guy that runs Vintage Saws).

Check out this article on vintage saws:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/f...y/library.html

Also check out Leif Hanson's site also, Norse Woodsmith (www.norsewoodsmith.com), there's great info on restoring, filing, making, etc...

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/saw/Restoring1.htm

And Ralph Brendler's handsaw faq:

http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/handsaws/handsaws.htm

You won't need to do electrolysis unless your saw is really bad...just some mineral spirits and a straight edge razor, followed up with 320 grit sand paper with mineral spirits will do wonders. You can get mineral spirits at your local OSH or HD if you're in the states.

Also, as to saw sets.. any preferences?

I can tell you what I've learned, and you can take it or leave it. I own about 5 sets, and there's all types of them, some very interesting ones from europe and such.

You need to make sure the set will handle the size teeth you have. Some older sets only handle small teeth, some handle big teeth, make sure you get one that will handle the proper points per inch.

I have a Stanley 42 (small teeth), Stanley Handy Man (large teeth), Stanley 42-X (possibly small and large, I have only used it on small), and 2 Somax (one small, one large). The Stanley 42-X was just given to me as a gift for xmas, and I've only used it twice, but it's much better than the 42 in regards to being able to adjust the anvil. Seems the 42-X will handle quite a variety of teeth sizes because of that. You can find these around, but they're pretty sought after (the 42-X).

The Somax is a very nice set, and is readily available from Tools for Working Wood. I would just buy this myself, it's a real quality tool and only costs $12 or so, the pair costs about $22. You'll need the one with the small plunger pin for the Disston 68.

Just get a file first, vintage saws sells them, LV sells them, LN sells them, even OSH or HD may have one that will work. I use a 4 xx-slim or 5 xx-slim, the 4 xx-slim may work better for the 68 (should be 17 points per inch).

Lastly, I would think about getting some type of magnification for any saws with teeth 15 points or finer, but maybe your eyes are better than mine. Good light helps also. For sharpening info, Vintage Saws, Bob Smalser, Leif Hanson (Norse Woodsmith).</ouch>

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Jeff,

For rust, remove the handle and use citric acid--in a pinch a strong solution made from any instant Kool-Aid type drink will work, but the sugar is sticky <g>. You can pick up bulk citric acid from any place selling home brewing supplies.

For saw sets? Can someone really only own one? Teasing aside, I have a few favorites and use various ones depending on the ppi of the saw I'm setting and or whether I wish to sit or stand, or the thickness/hardness of the saw plate.

Highland Hardware has two, one for fine teeth and one for coarse.
The ural for the fine is [13-27]:
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...ROD&ProdID=908

For the coarse [4-12 ppi]:
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...ROD&ProdID=907

Just don't go by the "index" numbers on the anvil, they are relative numbers. These are inexpensive but useful sets.

A vintage one to consider would be the Stanley 42X, but for the finer teeth be prepared to perhaps file the plunger down a little.

Take care, Mike

[Jeff Borges]

thanks Mike...I think I would like my saw to smell fruity.. can you tell me if the cherry KoolAid or the blue raspberry works better?

Kidding aside... is the rumor correct.. you are making saws? if so.. I'd be interested in seeing/trying/buying... let me know

Jeff

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Jeff,

Yeppers, making saws.

I was in the middle of cleaning a saw blade once, outside, and spilled my container of citric acid--and it was all I had here. So I did mix up some awful tasting citric drink stuff my wife had once bought and we never could drink. So I used it. The first ingredient listed was citric acid. I did clean the blade after with mineral spirits so unfortunately the fruity smell went away <g>.

I'll PM you about saw details.

Take care, Mike