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Thread: Tried my Wagner Gun & Target USL

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Matt, I know exactly what you are speaking about as I sometimes get it that way, too. But it really does level out once I promise it that I'll do better with the next coat....
    I don't recall any instructions for talking or pleading with the material.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser
    Is this the book?

    Yes...............
    Howie.........

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser
    I read somewhere, but can't remember where, that WB finishes do go on with some orange peel at first but level out.

    OK. Like I said before, it was just my assumption. Experience always trumps assumption .
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Sproul
    OK. Like I said before, it was just my assumption. Experience always trumps assumption .
    Don't go on my experience. I don't think 2 hours is enough.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser
    Don't go on my experience. I don't think 2 hours is enough.
    Sorry, Matt. This is the Internet. Once you are able to type the name of something succesfully, that automatically makes you an expert.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Sorry, Matt. This is the Internet. Once you are able to type the name of something succesfully, that automatically makes you an expert.
    Ain't that the truth....

  7. #22
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    Apr 2004
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    orange peel and Target's USL

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser
    I read somewhere, but can't remember where, that WB finishes do go on with some orange peel at first but level out.
    To revive this old thread....

    I've just started spraying. I was able to apply USL with little or no observable orange peel off the gun. I checked surfaces within 2-5 minutes since that is about how long it took me to spray the small projects I'm working on.

    Here is the schedule:

    sand bare wood to 220 grit.
    vacuum and raise the grain with distilled water.
    let dry for half-day.
    knock off raised grain with 320 grit hand sanding.
    vacuum.
    spray alcohol cut shellac - I experienced a bit of dry spray.
    let dry for 1 hour.
    knock down the shellac and any more raised grain with 320 grit hand sanding.
    vacuum. wipe down with moist (water) rag.
    spray first coat of USL - toned with dark red mahogany TransFast.

    I got a bit of orange peel and had difficulty laying down a really nice coat. Acceptable, but not really nice. I think I was using too low pressure on the gun and laying down too thick a layer.

    let dry 1 hour.

    hand sand 400 grit. The USL sands wonderfully and powders without clogging.
    vacuum and wipe down with water moistened rag.

    spray second coat of USL - toned with dark red mahog again since the poplar and birch were still looking a bit yellowing from the garnet shellac.

    this coat I could lay down nice and fine off the gun.

    let dry 1 hour. the color is still not quite where I'd like it (ok, so it isn't where my best guess of where LOML wants it to be... ) so I applied a 3rd toned coat of USL.

    Again, the third coat went on like the second....so I think I'm getting the hang of it.

    I was able to spray vertical surfaces without running or orange peel that lasted for more than a few minutes.

    For this, I used a Walcom STM touch-up gun, gravity feed. 1.2 mm N/N. I was running around 25 psi on the regulator at the gun handle and using a fairly narrow fan pattern. The USL was straight from the can - with the dye added, of course. I've got the Asturo ECO/SSP from Jeff but these projects are too small for that. LOML is out-of-country and has the camera so I'll post pics of the projects in about a week .

    I LOVE SPRAY FINISHING!

    fast. not too difficult to learn. superb results.

    only downfalls:

    The expense compared to brushing or wiping since you need gun and compressor or gun and turbine AND you need to make or purchase some sort of spray booth fan to capture the overspray.

    You also have to factor in that you'll use twice as much finish compared to hand application (which isn't necessarily trivial at $30 - $60/gallon) and a bit more solvent for clean up.
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  8. #23
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    Elk River, MN
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    I just got done reading the noted book by Charron - good book since I have no spray finishing experience. He mentions that for spraying waterbased it is common to have the orange peel as well. He mentions that it is dependant on many variables such as temp, humidity, etc. He goes on to say that it will go away on it's own anywhere between 20 minutes and several hours.

    Matt
    ---------------------------------------------

    You obviously have no idea of who I think I am!

  9. #24
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    Southern MD
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    Matt,

    My first spray experience was a few weeks ago using USL. Fortunately, I had read the same passage in the Charron book. It looked rough off the gun, but leveled out within about 5 minutes and wound up looking great.

    The great thing about spraying USL is starting the finish process with bare wood and having a fully finished piece dry and ready to go a few hours later.

    Jay
    Jay St. Peter

  10. #25
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    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
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    The Charron book looks good. I bought a copy at the Columbus woodworking show and read through a little bit of it. Unfortunately I left it at my brother's house down there.

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