Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Tablesaw Tuning? or Blade?

  1. #1

    Tablesaw Tuning? or Blade?

    I have been spending way too much time searching the forums for information on tuning my table saw (and can't find the right thing), but maybe thats not the problem. When I rip a board I have blade marks the whole way down. They are both directions making it look like the blade is brushing the wood on the way into the blade and on the way out. It does not seem like this is an alignment issue and is probably the blade especially given that I did not have the problem before my WWII lost a tooth and had to be replaced (with a different WWII). Can anyone reference a previous post that may address this or give me your $.02? Thanks Guys.
    Darrick

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Oakdale, CT
    Posts
    50
    Start with the basics and check that the blade is parallel to the miter slot first. Adjust you saw per the owners manual if needed. Now check the fence against the miter slot for parallel. Adjust as required. It sounds like the fence is closer to the blade at the far end and that is why you are burning all the way down. The wood is being pinched against the blade. Remember to mark the tooth on the blade and use it for checking both the forward and rear alignment points of the blade against the miter slot. What do you have to measure with? A dial caliper is the best. Let us know what you find.
    Bob Nazro
    A Connecticut Yankee
    I've measured this three times and each time I cut it, it's still to short...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Belleville, IL
    Posts
    489
    Since you recently had the blade repaired, take it of the saw and lay it on a dead flat surface, like the table saw and lok it over real good. There's a chance that the new tooth may be sticking out just a tad.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Try a different blade for starters.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Nazro
    ...A dial caliper is the best. Let us know what you find.
    I think Bob meant a dial indicator

    Have you ever tuned your saw? When I do my alignment I use the left miter slot for all the checking... This is should be considered your point of reference. I mark a tooth on the blade, rotate the blade 180º and measure with the dial indicator at that point... Depending on the type of TS you have read the manual to dermine how to make the adjustment so the blade becomes parallel (or as much as you care to tinker with it I would not sweat being .001-.002 off parallel)

    After that is taken care of, lower the blade and slide the fence over and work on getting the fence parallel, if anything have the fence toe out .001-.005 or so away from the blade on the back side. HTH
    I can pay retail anywhere, so how's your service?
    Grabbing defeat from the jaws of victory one project at a time
    Maker of precision cut firewood


Similar Threads

  1. Tablesaw blade guard use
    By roy knapp in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 42
    Last Post: 12-10-2005, 2:35 PM
  2. Tablesaw blade height rip setting and kickback
    By Jules Dominguez in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-13-2005, 12:53 PM
  3. Bandsaw Tips and Critique
    By John Hart in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-06-2005, 8:30 AM
  4. My stupid accident & tablesaw blade guard question
    By Tom Hoffman in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 07-13-2004, 1:27 AM
  5. Interesting new tablesaw blade!
    By Gene Collison in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 01-06-2004, 12:19 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •