raised panel question

[Bob Cooper]

i just bought a 2+2 freud raised panel bit set -- matched stile/rail and cove panel bit w/backcutter. Anyway, i cut the panel about 1/4 smaller than the available space and assemble the door but the panel fits tight. tighter than i'd expect. there's plent of room for expansion but i can't slide the panel around inside the frame and that concerns me.

i don't really see a way to make the tongue thinner since the backcutter is in place and it determines the tongue thickness <-- there doesn't seem to be any spacers to remove.

i was expecting to need to add some spacers (spaceballs, rubber, ...) to keep the panel from moving around much, but i definately don't have that problem. i couldn't move the panel if i wanted to.

should i be concerned? suggestions?

thanks,

bob c

[Anthony Anderson]

Bob, personally I would not want the panel to be that tight. I have never used a bit with the backcutter. The backcutter seems like a good idea, but I like to cut the relief using the router table, using a straight bit. Adjust the height to make the edge of the panel the thickness to allow for slight movement of the panel in the frame. You don't want the panel to bind in the frame with changes in humidity. Hope this helps, Bill

[Bob Cooper]

thanks Bill, i can lower the bit some and have the backcutter take a littlemore off the back. i'm just surprised that a set like this which is made to strict tolerances would have any fit issues.

[Anthony Anderson]

Bob, I went to Freud's website and it stated in their advertisement that the thickness of the tongue is adjustable by using shims under the backcutter. Did yours come with any shims (small washers)? Make sure that there is not shims already installed under the backcutter,this would make the tongue thicker. Freud produces a quality product, but maybe this is a bad set that slipped out the door. How old is the set? If not too old then is there a possibility that you could return it? Also my reply will return the thread to the front of the forum, and maybe someone else, that is familiar with this set, will jump in. HTH, Bill

[Bill Webber]

Sounds about right to me, unless you needed clamps to force the stiles and rails together. IMO you don't want to be able to move the panel around in the frame. If you can, in some seasons you will have a door that rattles when you close it. I have always aimed for a tight, but not forced, fit between the panels and the frame... no spaceballs or other gimmicks needed. YMMV.

Bill W.

[Steve Clardy]

I don't use a back cutter. I use a rabbit bit to relieve the back, letting the 3/4 panel sit back in the door, so the panel will not protrude out in front of the frame.

[Bob Cooper]

Bill:

yes there are washers but they are on the other side of the backcutter -- i.e. i could make the tounge thicker. I may give Freud a quick call just to get their opinion.

Bill W:

No, i didn't need to use clamps to get it together, but once it's in there it takes all my strength (no comments) to pull off the long (2') stiles if i want to move the panel around.

[Charley Moore Jr.]

You can cut your panel with the relief in the back at the depth that you want. After you make that cut then you can raise the bit up as much as you want. The back cutter has already done its job, any height that you raise the bit will make the panel thinner and the back cutter will not cut any more away.

[Anthony Anderson]

Bob, I always keep the humidity in our house constant ~35% year round. So very little changes in wood dimensions. Have you ever seen hardwood floors with huge gaps between the boards in the winter? And then those gaps disappear in the summer? If you are building those doors during this season when the air is at its driest, and the humidity in your house is not constant (say around 30%), and those doors fit that tight, then when the seasonal humidity changes those doors are more than likely going to suck moisture from the air, and expand. I like to have the panel slide in with no resistance. I leave it to the spaceballs to hold it in place. You definately want to allow for movement. Give Freud a call, I am sure that they will help you. HTH, Bill

[David Abel]

i just bought a 2+2 freud raised panel bit set -- matched stile/rail and cove panel bit w/backcutter. Anyway, i cut the panel about 1/4 smaller than the available space and assemble the door but the panel fits tight. tighter than i'd expect. there's plent of room for expansion but i can't slide the panel around inside the frame and that concerns me.

i don't really see a way to make the tongue thinner since the backcutter is in place and it determines the tongue thickness <-- there doesn't seem to be any spacers to remove.

i was expecting to need to add some spacers (spaceballs, rubber, ...) to keep the panel from moving around much, but i definately don't have that problem. i couldn't move the panel if i wanted to.

should i be concerned? suggestions?

thanks,

bob c

There ARE spacers in between the cutters. Remove a shim or remove a shim and replace it with a thinner one so that you cutting the panel about .004 thinner if the panel is just a wee bit too tight.

[Charles McCracken]

Sorry the spacing was off. There are shims between the back cutter and the solid bearing surface. Remove the nut and cutter, then remove one of the thinnest (0.004") shims. Put the cutter back on then the shim you removed and replace and tighten the nut. That should get it right for you.

Charles M
Freud America, Inc.

[Bob Cooper]

Charles:

Thanks. I'll do as you say. Just looking at it, it looks like there's about 4 (memory) big spacers between the backcutter and the nut and only a very thin 'washer' between the solid bearing and the backcutter. I just assumed that was a needed washer and not a spacer.

I'll remove the nut/backcutter and get a little more educated.

Thanks

P.S. btw, big fan of your products.

[Anthony Anderson]

Bob let us know how it works out, and how you like the set. Thanks, Bill