aftermarket table saw guards

[john mclane]

I know the topic of using or not using a TS guard has already been addressed.

I would rather use one.

I have a Powermatic Model 64 10" TS and hate the blade guard and splitter due to the difficulty in taking on and reallinging when I put back on. I find I make excuses to not put back on after using a dado.

Question: where do I find a good source for aftermarket TS guards and splitters for the Powermatic?

If no good sources, does anybody have a good plan for making one specific for this saw? How about modifying the current one?

[tod evans]

biesmier.....02 tod

[Ted Shrader]

John -

Any after market blade guard that gets USED is a good one. I have the Brett Guard and use it. Some things I like about it:

• Easily pivots up out of the way when using cut off sled
• Easily adjustable for different rip widths
• Locks down in place to prevent work from raising up

Scott's suggestion about putting splitters in a ZCI is a good one. Unfortunately, the way the trunnions are designed on most saws, the splitter has no real handy adjustment.

Ted

[Jim Becker]

I started out with a Delta UniGuard and moved to an Excalibur. (Review on my site) Other options include the Biesemeyer, Brett Guard, PSI and Exactor...or shop-built of which there have been a number of good examples published by both woodworkers and magazines. (WOOD Magazine has a plan available)

I believe that Biesemeyer offers a snap-in splitter for the PM66. I have one on my Jet LT saw and love it. It gets used nearly 100% of the time it's possible to use it.

[scott bonder]

I used to be ver concerned about this topic. I then went to a Felder and it was not a huge issue any longer.

Anyway, for guards,use any that you find asy to use. The Bies was a great one some years ago. Probably still is. Gor splitters, I never liked the available options as they tend to stay too far from the blade. I prefer making a few zero clearance inserts and then making your own wooden splittr to fit in the kerf right behind the blade. I found that 90% of operations had the blade at 90 degrees to the table and at about the same height. This made it very simple to have just a few such setups handy.

Scott

[Jeffrey Makiel]

John,
I posted this pic about a week ago in a thread called "tablesaw with a mustache". It's a fairly generic design as far as tablesaws go.
-Jeff

[Art Mulder]

Jeff,

I'm guessing that these areny' much use on a skinny rip cut? Or do you position it up a ways and still catch some dust?

What do you do about a crosscut sled?

I'm thinking about one of these someday, and these question give me pause.

[Jim Becker]

Art, you are correct that there are some cuts that the overarm guard is not "convenient" to use with. Very narrow ripps where the guard will interfere with your push block, for example. When you are using a sled, etc. The idea is to use them when you can do so safely or without compromising your cutting abaility. There is no one solution that will work for every single cut.

[Art Mulder]

Jim, I'm assuming, though, that an overarm guard is pretty much the only solution for trying to catch sawdust coming off the top of your blade?

[Roy Wall]

Jim, I'm assuming, though, that an overarm guard is pretty much the only solution for trying to catch sawdust coming off the top of your blade?

Art,

Not trying to speak for Jim.......but yes......you are correct. the overarm guard with DC is the way. (This includes those who use a Shopvac instead of dedicated cyclone or DC)

If you use a shopvac or Fein vac....these vacuum units allow for smaller inlet on top of the blade guard.

A true DC unit (like a cyclone) will work as good or better but really requires a larger 3- 4" inlet over the blade guard to collect the dust/chips...

[Mark Carlson]

The shark guard product looks interesting. I want to get a guard that provides dust collection but doesn't require a boom system. I have a router mounted in my extension table with a incra LS fence. Most boom systems would interfere with this setup. With the shark guard I could easily mount a dust collection hose to the ceiling.
Hmmm..

Anyone else have any experience or thoughts about the shark guard?

[Bart Leetch]

"Most boom systems would interfere with this setup. With the shark guard I could easily mount a dust collection hose to the ceiling."

Mark I am not saying you router system is set up this way , but something I have never understood is a router table in the right extension table where it is set so the material has to be fed through the router between the saw table & the router while standing as you would to feed material through the saw.. No one would accept having to feed material through a shaper or jointer this way most wood workers I've have seen may start behind a shaper or jointer but usually end up along side the machine. This & the fact that my right extension wing is next to the wall is why I put my router table in the left wing. I also have a Exaktor guard which I had on the previous saw but I haven't put on my Unisaw since I got the saw. I found that I had to raise the guard for more cuts than I thought I would. also I made a extension for my Exaktor guard & mounted it to the ceiling.

[Mark Carlson]

Bart,

Your description of my router setup is correct. Its similar to the setup used by David Marks, if you've ever watched his show. I agree the setup is not ideal for positioning oneself as you feed your stock through the bit. I dont find this awkward though. It does have the benefit of providing a lot of work surface to the left of the router fence along with outfeed extensions. I had a seperate router table before I got a cabinet saw. I have a small shop so I decided to mount my Woodpecker router table in the right extension to save room.

Your pictures of a ceiling mounted Exaktor guard would work for me also.

[Mark Rios]

Don't forget to add that cupholder in the near left corner of the router wing.

[Tom Drake]

I use a Shark Guard I purchased from Lee Styron as well. Works very well.