What is a Cope and Stick Router Bit Set?

[Charles McCracken]

Dev,

I didn't mean to start a controversy. I have great respect for your knowledge and I am sure the work you produce is first rate.

The key to using a router table to perform these cuts is what I call the fly cut. The tenoner gets away with this by virtue of the coping head flying over the finished tenon. It only cuts when it needs to relieve the cheek and leave behind the reverse moulding profile. If you can build a router bit that cuts the reverse profile but has no guide bearings or jointing cutters for finishing the stub tenon, then you can perform this exact cut in multiple stages on your router table.

This is exactly what the 99-267 set mentioned above does. The window sash bits also do this. It hasn't been done with cabinet door bits yet but I'm sure it is only a matter of time.

Charles M
Freud America, Inc.

[Curt Harms]

Cope is when you put up with someone or something..
Stick is what you would like to hit them with..

when you get tired of copeing with them? Always wondered about that

[Dev Emch]

Dev,

I didn't mean to start a controversy. I have great respect for your knowledge and I am sure the work you produce is first rate.


This is exactly what the 99-267 set mentioned above does. The window sash bits also do this. It hasn't been done with cabinet door bits yet but I'm sure it is only a matter of time.

Charles M
Freud America, Inc.

Charles...
I am so glad to hear that you guys are going in this direction. I have been preaching to the choir about this very problem for more years than I wish to recall. I am a prefectionist and this is one of my major pet peeves.

Please review the complex joinery on this site.
http://www.solidwoodmachinery.com/

This was done by an older Maka. My maka is not a SM-6P but rather a STV-161. I have been meaning to post a shop tour and that will be my SMC project for Feb.

I also designed a four wing cutter to fly over subflooring to allow you to re-groove flooring that is nailed down and in place. All of the groovers I found had mandrels with arbor nuts on them which interfered with this operation. Not mortise and tenon stuff but still it uses the concept of fly cutting. This cutter can be used to cut shaker style tenons if you think about it.

The big issue is shaper cutters. In order to reduce the diamter and danger of using a shaper cutter to cope profiles by virtue of fly cutting, you will need to redesign the attachment scheme by which cutters attach to the spindle. You will need some form of necked down arbor with a flush mount bolt on the top. Add a couple of keys for safety and you should be O.K. These spindles and flush mount cutters would be a welcome addition to the tooling arsenal and anyone with a small shaper like a Delta HD or powermatic 26 can do the same operation that my oliver 125 single ended tenoner does.

We have been making our own fly cutting router bits for years. A buddy of mine in the woodworking industry has made some of these for me. Wally who owns Vexor Woodworking does a killer job. But he charges a ton of cash for these. The fly cutting groover cost me $220 dollars to have made. By the way, these all have brazed carbide tips supplied by Tigra.

Hopefully we can see some cheaper solutions that actually do the job instead of having to design and fabricate our own.

Best of luck...