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Thread: Newbie cutting Mesquite end grain

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mesquite TX
    Posts
    23

    Newbie cutting Mesquite end grain

    I was turning my first piece after about 15 years off from lathe work, making a turned covered box out of a mesquite log. The box, now finished on the outside at 2-1/2 inch diameter, has stopped me cold when it came time to cut out the insides.

    Question is, my very limited tool inventory is mainly for bowls, I have one side scraper for making bottoms sqaure and flat, but otherwise, bowl gouges, dome scraper, parting tool.

    I know, I need lots more tols, but the question is on this project, which tool would be best suited for this? A fingernail spindle gouge? Something that would allow me to bore the center out, then turn to width?

    I tried using the dome scraper, but at 1/2 inch, it was too wide for the and never dug in.

    I have read about termite tools, and will pass on those right now, but this end grain is eating my lunch.

  2. #2
    Never done it myself but from what I have read, you should use a spindle gouge and drill in with it clearing chips often down to the appropriate depth, then use your gouge to come in from the inside rim and turn it down to close to final diameter and then use your scraper to finish it up. That's what the books and video's say anyway

    Corey

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mesquite TX
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    23
    Well, I was watching a video, and that is what they used. So I took that opportunity to explain to SWMBO that ANOTHER tool will be required. (This before the end of the week since getting my Jet 1442 lathe)

    Turning = $$$$$black hole

    LOL

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Southern Kentucky
    Posts
    2,218
    Larry welcome to the creek. Hope you got a camera to take pics of all the fine items you will be turning out.
    As small as your project is---if you only remove a small amount of material at a time you can hollow that out with a parting tool. Start where you want the outside wall at and work your way to the center. Heck if you only take a 1/4 inch at a time you will be able to hollow that out in a couple of passes.
    ---I may be broke---but we have plenty of wood---

  5. #5
    Larry, the one good thing about turning is there is always something to spend your money on.

    By far the easist way is to turn the inside with a fingernail ground spindle or detail gouge with the bevel shortened. You can drill out the center to depth as Corey mentioned and then turn from the center out and get your basic width. Then you can square up the sides and bottom with a square scraper. You can drill out the center and use a square scaper in incremental cuts to hollow it out but that is much harder. I prefer the gouge method.

    Mesquite turns nicely and will make a pretty box. Post it when you are done.
    Last edited by Michael Stafford; 01-28-2006 at 9:21 PM.
    Big Mike

    I have done so much with so little for so long I am now qualified to do anything with nothing......

    P.S. If you are interested in plans for any project that I post, just put some money in an envelope and mail it to me and I will keep it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,850
    What Mike and the others are explaining is how to use a spindle gouge more as a hollowing scraper than a gouge which is appropriate for hollowing end grain. A bowl gouge will give you fits because when you work end-grain you work from the center out, rather than from out to in like you do on a face-plate turning...quite hard to do with a bowl gouge!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Larry, what I am trying to describe is the technique that I learned from Richard Raffan's book "Turned Boxes" where the gouge is used as a cutting tool. There is no scraping involved with the gouge at all. I use scrapers for scraping. The gouge when used properly will peel nice long continuous shavings when you are hollowing the inside of boxes. Not only does it hollow quickly it results in clean surfaces if done properly. More than any one thing my improved use of the gouge, spindle or detail for hollowing boxes has improved my box turning efforts.
    Last edited by Michael Stafford; 01-28-2006 at 9:52 PM.
    Big Mike

    I have done so much with so little for so long I am now qualified to do anything with nothing......

    P.S. If you are interested in plans for any project that I post, just put some money in an envelope and mail it to me and I will keep it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Well...scrapers don't really "scrape". They actually cut which is why you get shavings from them, but with a very fine edge. The nature of the spindle gouge in this particular technique essentially does the same thing, but a lot more agressively. And because you have a long edge due to the fingernail, you get a very nice shear cutting effect, too, which makes for the glass-smooth surface. There is a LOT going on here!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Hi Larry!...Welcome to the Creek! I'm one of those people who uses a scraper. I even use it to do the initial bore and recently did a mesquite HF using that technique. I'm not really qualified to lend much assistance but I'd like to see a picture of your approach...and maybe a picture of the cutting edge of your round-nose scraper.
    ~john
    "There's nothing wrong with Quiet" ` Jeremiah Johnson

  10. #10
    I do my hollowing with a round nose scraper. It's probably wrong but being self taught it's how I taught myself. I drill a center hole for depth, and then scrape from the inside out. Keep a good burr on the scraper and it cuts endgrain pretty nice.
    Using the gouge techniques mentioned above requires a lot of practice I would guess, along with some sharpening techniques that are also an acquired skill.
    Getting your wife to understand that the visa card is one of the most important turning tools is also an acquired skill that sometimes requires some serious trade offs.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Larry, I bore a hole with a drill bit or a bowl gouge, and then use a bowl gouge with a celtic type grind on it, I pull it back toward me against the side of the box. I was recently shown a tool that was a modified bottom scraper with the left side ground so it could be used on the side of a box. The guy said it was very useful in getting a straight side on a box. I think I will make me one.
    Glenn Hodges
    Nashville, Georgia

    "Would you believe the only time I ever make mistakes is when someone is watching?"

  12. #12
    I've been working on an end-grain screwbean mesquite bowl for several weeks and am getting weary. That's the toughest wood I've ever tried to turn! I've turned two face-grain bowls from the same tree with no problems but the end-grain is beating me down. I use a round-nose scraper and am getting catch after catch. I got an S-shaped tool rest thinking that would help but still have the same problems. It's come out of the scroll chuck at least ten times now and I'm about to lose the spigot. Good luck with yours......Ron

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Benton Falls, Maine
    Posts
    5,480
    I've always pretty much done what Glenn describes. And with respect to the tool that he refers to - consider this.....

    A while back Mike Stafford posted a box he made and during the discussion I mentioned two tools I'd seen in a video by Ray Key.

    Well, I bought both and here they are. Unfortunately I've been into a mess of commissioned spindle work so I have not yet had a chance to try them. As soon as I do, I'll report back

    new tools.jpg
    Only the Blue Roads

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mesquite TX
    Posts
    23
    When using the scraper to cut the initial center hole, I assume that you have to have the cutting edge above and to the left of center when you do that correct?

    Perhaps I should try to angle the tool with the handle end pointing to the 5 o'clock position with the tip at the 10 o'clock position as viewed from the tailstock end of the lathe.

    I will persist, but then, Rockler opens at noon or so today LOL

    I will report back later, thanks!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Fuller
    I do my hollowing with a round nose scraper. It's probably wrong but being self taught it's how I taught myself.
    There is really no "wrong" way to do anything like this...there are just different ways, some more efficient, but all valid if they cut out the material as intended.
    ---

    By example, several folks have mentioned drilling a hole for depth. Perfectly valid, especially when depth is critical for something. I did that, too, for a long time, but have eliminated that step for the most part. I just measure depth as I go and cut out a little more when necessary. I will say that if I were doing production work where time is more important, I'd still be drilling the depth hole to save a little bit of effort along the way. Both ways are valid and work.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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