Old Solid Oak Desk

[Phil Doyle]

I've been an occasional visitor/reader here for over a year, and I have to say that it's a terrific forum, and I learn something new on every visit. This being my first post, I suppose I should introduce myself- My name is Phil Doyle, I hail from Commack, Long Island, NY, and woodworking is a love and a hobby for me. I do mostly small work (magazine racks, napkin holders and so on), and maybe some day will have the guts to post some pics here (pretty intimidating prospect for a hobbyist like me ). I have no formal training, but have managed to turn out some decent pieces (for an amatuer) by sheer determination and a mildly obsessive attention to detail. So, that's me... now for the situation that has me hoping for some advice from some of the esteemed pros who are regulars here.

This solid oak desk has been someplace or other in the family for a LONG time. It's at least 50 years old, probably older. It has received several coats of paint over the years (none by me, I promise you). I've been thinking about refinishing it for years, and finally took a shot at it. I was able to get the paint off one of the drawers with a few applications of some K3 methylehylene based stripper. It wasn't easy, especially with all those decorative gouge marks. To my chagrin the paint wasn't the end of the existing finish story, as you can see from the drawer front. I'm not sure what the remaining finish is. The inside of the drawers appear to just be shellac. A local refinisher/restorer who does very nice work quoted me $600. for a complete restoration or $300. to take it down to bare wood. This leaves me with a few questions-
1. Am I getting in way over my head if I try to tackle this myself (if not, what's the best way to proceed)?
2. Does the piece 'look' like it might be worth investing that kind of money in?

Anyway, if anyone can offer some guidance it would be much appreciated. Either way, thanks for an enjoyable and educational forum.
phil doyle

[Jim DeLaney]

I've had good luck using Citrus Strip, and the smell of it isn't too bad. Another good one is Peel-n-Strip. With it, you paint it on, put their 'special' paper over it, and leave it overnight. When you peel the paper off, the paint comes with it.

For getting into the nooks and crannys, you might want to try a soft <U>brass</U> bristled brush, or a dental pick.

For refinishing, shellac is good for everything but the top, and is easy and forgiving to work with. (Shellac won't tolerated spills too well) I'd use an oil-based poly on the top.

BTW, I notice this is your first post. Welcome! You'll find this site very informative and helpful.

[Cecil Arnold]

Phil, welcome to the creek. I think it shows some promise if it were cleaned up. The however is that $3-600 seems a bit high for the piece. As Jim says, shellac is a nice finish that is easy and forgiving once you learn the techniques. You can do a search and find more information on shellac. Good luck on your project and post some pictures when you get it finished.

[John Mihich]

2. The piece is worth the effort.
1. Not sure the stripper you are using but I use Strippeze or Bix all the time. It does take several applications to get down to the orginal wood. I use dental picks and tooth brushes to get into the nooks.

Just take your time and the paint and other finish will come off. The first 2-3 applications I use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the stripper. Let the stripper sit according to the instructions. If you rush it you will just have to work more. Once I get to seeing wood I start using steel wool to get more of the stripper off. Just keep going until it all gone.

Some strippers are water wash - I never use water - it raises the grain and causes more work. Use mineral spirits to wash the piece after all the paint is off. While the piece is still damp I work on the corners to get them clean. If you do it then it's easier then when it's dry. At this point the wood will be a little soft so be gentle.

Once I have the piece clean I will take sand paper to it; not alot, using 220.

The coloring will look uneven but you can apply some stain; oil based, any color that you want the piece to be, and the piece will even out.

I do a lot of refinishing and enjoy it. I love seeing a piece go from junk to something I'm proud of.

[tod evans]

welcome phil! as long as that piece has been in your family it`s worth refinishing for that reason alone. methelyne chloride strippers probably will work the best, combination of safty for the wood and speed vs cost. ask around locally 300 seems kinda high to hot tank that piece? maybe not in ny? good luck......02 tod

[Phil Doyle]

Guys, thanks to all for the advice. A couple of brushes, a few different strippers and a bunch of time sounds like it should do the trick. Except for the time, I can get that stuff locally
Thanks again,
phil

[Carl Eyman]

Do you have anybody around that will dip pieces? I mean that have big tanks they immerse work in. Their price is very reasonable. I'd guess $50. The down side is it raises the grain, hence more sanding. Also if an animal glue joint goes in the tank it needs re-glueing. The up side is it does a very complete job without a lot of fine detail work. New Orleans has (or had) a lot of them. They did a lot of architectual work in restoring old houses.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Phil,

Nice piece you hve there. IMHO it seems like it would be a wrthy project.
Welcome to the Creek. Glad to have you here

Sorry I can't be more help on the finishing question, but no doubt you'l get the answer here