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Thread: Vanity top dimensions

  1. #1
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    Vanity top dimensions

    From checking out various vanities, it looks like it's typical to have the top overhang by around an inch or so. But it's been a while since I've looked and I'm working out the dimensions of the one I'm building, and have a question. For a vanity with a 3/4" face frame and full overlay doors and drawers (also 3/4"), is that overhang measured from the face frame or the drawers? What's a typical dimension of a stone top if the depth of the vanity (measured from back to front of drawer/door) is 23"?

  2. #2
    At least those that I've done the 1" overhang is meas. out from the face frame.
    Matt Tawes
    Chesapeake Woodcraft

  3. #3
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    I just built a vanity with a marble top. The overhang per the stone fabricators for overlay doors should be around 1 1/4" - 1 1/2". I have inset doors/drawers on mine and the overlay is 1".

    Mike

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Gabbay
    I just built a vanity with a marble top. The overhang per the stone fabricators for overlay doors should be around 1 1/4" - 1 1/2".
    Mike
    Mike, is that 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" measured from the overlay door or the face frame?

  5. #5
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    From the face of the drawers and doors, I go 1/4" over to the stone
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  6. #6
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    Rob - it is measured from the face frame. Basically the overhang needs to be proud of the entire face and side of the cabinet with the exception of the hardware.

    Mike

  7. #7
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    Rob I work in the stock box cabinet business and deal with standard cultured marble tops daily. The industry standards are 1" overhang for width and depth. Example a 30" width vanity sink base cabinet is standard at 21" depth. This would use a 31"x22" vanity top. They come in many standard widths and typically 22" and 19" depths. If you look around, there are companies offering prefab granite vanity tops with undermount bowls coming over from China. You can typically get granite for cultured marble prices. I used them in my bathroom remodel. Good luck and hope this helps.

  8. #8
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    Thanks everyone, that helps a lot.

  9. #9
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    Rob - Big lesson learned for me was make sure you have the sink and know the thickness of the top and backsplash material before you make the vanity. I used the standard 21" deminsions and we changed the sink to a larger undermount (17x15). The marble we used was 2cm (3/4"). With the larger sink the faucets were moved back some. THey work fine but kind of crowd the backsplash.

    Personally, if you are using a natural stone top, make the vanity 22 to 23" deep. I think it looks better have more space in the back then less. The stone fabricator will cut what ever deminsion you need.

    Also, make the toe kick about 4" or more tall. Toe kicks on vanities are taller than kitchen cabinets.

    my 2 cents....

    Mike

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Gabbay
    Rob - Big lesson learned for me was make sure you have the sink and know the thickness of the top and backsplash material before you make the vanity. I used the standard 21" deminsions and we changed the sink to a larger undermount (17x15). The marble we used was 2cm (3/4"). With the larger sink the faucets were moved back some. THey work fine but kind of crowd the backsplash.

    Personally, if you are using a natural stone top, make the vanity 22 to 23" deep. I think it looks better have more space in the back then less. The stone fabricator will cut what ever deminsion you need.

    Also, make the toe kick about 4" or more tall. Toe kicks on vanities are taller than kitchen cabinets.

    my 2 cents....

    Mike
    Mike,
    Thanks, and I am following your advice on all counts. The vanity design is actually the last part now that the space is defined and the sinks etc chosen. This is my first cabinet and I'm actually making a mockup in less expensive ply before making the real thing in walnut veneered ply so that I can sort out the various issues on this version. I've cut the panels to size and will next rabbet the back edges and make some holes for plumbing lines and then assemble via pocket screws (very similar construction to Mark Singer's Balboa cabinets). The depth will be 22" (to the faceframe) and so the top will be 23" deep of 3/4" stone (by about 6' wide). I spoke with the stone person and he likes at least 22-23" if possible. The toe kick will be 6" high and have an arched part that is part of the face frame. I'll post progress once I really get going.
    Rob

  11. #11
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    Rob - Sounds great! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

    Mike

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