Which Table Saw to Buy

[Craig Fyock]

I am looking for a new table saw and am having trouble making up my mind.

* I want a saw that I dont have to replace any time soon.
*I am limited to 110V at this time and space is somewhat of an issue.
*I do will be cutting mostly ripping pen blanks and cutting segments for turning so Im not running a production shop.
*I would like to be under $1,000 but $1,300 is about the top end.

I have looked at the Jet SuperSaw with sliding side table, and the Delta Hybrid saw. Also trying to decide which fences to go with on these saws....Im not stuck on these two saws. Tell me what you have and what you like about it. Thanks..Craig

[Maurice Ungaro]

If you're gonnna be doing mostly small stuff, why don't you look into getting a bandsaw? There are numerous woodworkers out there that rely more on the bandsaw than table saw. It's more versitle, takes up lerss space, and if you go for a quality 14" saw, with a riser kit, you'll be well under, or at the same cost of a decent tablesaw.

[tod evans]

craig, you`ll be much better off if you can find a used cabinet saw in your price range than a new hybrid.....02 tod

[Brian Dormer]

Craig -

It's a bit below your price range (which leaves more money for other stuff) - but I went thru a fairly lenghty review based on all the websites I could find (lots of googling) and every magazine review I could lay my hands on. Also visited lots of stores to see saws "in the flesh".

I was pretty close to sold on the Ridgid TS 3650 - but then realized that the motor sticks out the back. So the saws "footprint" is deeper than 27" (for the table) + the rip fence rails. Also, a contractor saw has pretty much an open cabinet (so the dust flies unimpeded).

My "second choice" ultimately won out - a Craftsman 22114. It is more like a cabinet saw and the motor is under the right hand table (so the footprint is the tables and rip fence rails. The only bad things I've read are knocks against the miter gauge (buy an Incra) and a few moans about the rip fence. I spent a long time at my local sears comparing a Bessimier and the fence on the 22114 - I didn't really see any difference in how much "wiggle" I could produce in the fences. There are lots of good reviews of this saw out there. Mine is currently in the garage (all 337 lbs of it) waiting for a couple friends to come over and help me get it down to the basement.

Good thing about Craftsman is that any Sears is a source for parts and accessories. And there is alot of aftermarket (although not as much as for, say, Delta).

Then again - I would have to agree that - for cutting pen blanks and turning blanks - you would probably be far better off with a nice bandsaw. There are many woodworkers that support the position that getting a good bandsaw is far more important than having a tablesaw. This is especially true in a small shop.

For what you are talking about doing - a table saw is probably overkill and I would go with a bandsaw first. Better yet - spend about 1/2 your budget on a bandsaw and the other 1/2 on a table saw. Best of both worlds!

bd

[Robert Lee]

Craig,
Have a look at the craftsman cabinet saw #22124 cabinet saw. I recently bought one after spending all last winter reviewing all saws in the price range which you are currently. The saw was actually designed by the same person or persons who designed the dewalt D746 table saw. The designers ventured out on their own after working for dewalt and where contracted by craftsman to build this saw. I have had no complaints with it. I build furniture and cabinets and this saw has never let me down. It comes with a biesemeyer fence system ($300 value), out feed table, left extension table, and can be used either with 120v or 240v line. The motor is 1-3/4 horse which some will say is a bit undersized for a cabinet saw, but I have not noticed any power problems when cutting through any hardwood. The price is right at 900.00. But you can catch it on a sale if you have patience for 850.00. Also I have heard some people getting an extra 10% using their craftsman card on certain days. Check it out you wont be disapointed.

[Frank Pellow]

craig, you`ll be much better off if you can find a used cabinet saw in your price range than a new hybrid.....02 tod

But, the problem with this is that most cabinet saws operate on 220 (or so) volts and Craig has said he does not want anything other than 110 volts.

Craig, if I were in your position, I would probably go with a hybrid (most likely Delta or Craftsman) and get an after-market miter guage (probably Jessem).

[tod evans]

But, the problem with this is that most cabinet saws operate on 220 (or so) volts and Craig has said he does not want anything other than 110 volts.

Craig, if I were in your position, I would probably go with a hybrid (most likely Delta or Craftsman) and get an after-market miter guage (probably Jessem).

whoops! sorry please disregard my previous post...02 tod

[Craig Fyock]

I have a Jet 14" Deluxe Band saw with riser block, but to cut jointable angles without sanding is a problem. From what I've heard this can be accomplished with a table saw with a good blade.

I would also like a left tilt saw from what I've heard it is safer and less chance of a kick of a kickback.

Please keep up the great posts they are helpful.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I have a Jet 14" Deluxe Band saw with riser block, but to cut jointable angles without sanding is a problem. From what I've heard this can be accomplished with a table saw with a good blade.

I would also like a left tilt saw from what I've heard it is safer and less chance of a kick of a kickback.

Please keep up the great posts they are helpful.

I'll second the comment about gluable joints without sanding or other additional prep work...I do them all the time on a tablesaw, but even on its best day, my band saw doesn't produce a glue-ready joint.

Not intending to thread-jack to start a philisophical argument, but I'm not sure how a left-tilt would kick back any more or less than a right-tilt.

Craig, since you asked what we have and why we like it...I have the Ridgid TS3650, and I like it because I found no other saw with the same features and upgrades in the same price range (about $600). It's proven to be a very good saw for my needs. If I ever have the room for a dedicated shop, I'll likely add a decent cabinet saw, but chances are I'd still keep the Ridgid for specific set-ups. For the price range you're looking at, I got the Ridgid TS and the Shop Fox 14" BS with a riser block. I have no regrets about either purchase. Regarding fences, the factory fence on the Ridgid did everything I ever asked of it, and it stayed straight and square. I recently replaced it with the Incra TS-III setup, which is more accurate and repeatable, but a bit more involved to remove and replace.

- Vaughn

[Michael Ballent]

I really do not think that you are going to need to spend all $1,000 - 1,300 unless you really have your heart set on a hybrid machine. I used to have a Dewalt 746 and I really liked the saw, since then I have upgraded to a cabinet saw (since you cannot use 220v this is not an option) I think that you will be well off with a good contractor saw, but since I have never owned one I cannot recommend one for you. I do have a friend that had a Powermatic 64a and it was a real bear to align the fence. So I guess that can help you out

[Jon Farley]

Though it is a new machine and doesn't have a track record, if I were you I'd consider the Grizzly G0478. Can work off 110v and costs $700.

[Rich Fishel]

I'll second the recommendation for the Ridgid TS3650. I've had mine about five months, paid just under $600, no problems so far.

[Steve Schoene]

But, the problem with this is that most cabinet saws operate on 220 (or so) volts and Craig has said he does not want anything other than 110 volts.

Craig, if I were in your position, I would probably go with a hybrid (most likely Delta or Craftsman) and get an after-market miter guage (probably Jessem).

This is generally true, but I have a 115 v. 1 1/2 horse moter that will fit on any unisaw--along with a change in the pully. Its surprisingly strong compared to modern motors claimed to have the same hp. I would bet such a thing could be found (I'd sell mine I suppose). Then when 220 v.is available the upgrade is easy. By the way its not very difficult to add a 220 circuit, so I'd seriously reconsider whether you are absolutely stuck with a 115 volt saw.

[scott spencer]

Hi Craig - As many have mentioned a full 3hp cabinet saw would be a saw you'll never outgrow and has several advantages going for it. Without 220v a traditional cabinet saw is harder to come by, but a hybrid is a logical solution IMO.

I've got a Craftsman 22124 that replaced a very good contractor saw and I find the 22124 has many advantages over it. Many of those advantages are similar to the advantages a cabinet saw offers...smaller footprint, better DC, top notch Biesemeyer fence, easy to align cabinet mounted trunnions, excellent stability, and a short serpentine drive belt. The stock Leitz blade is also very good. It'll run well on 110v and I've found with the right blade, the saw offers alot of power....2-3/4" hard maple is the toughest stuff I've cut with it and did extremely well with a 24T rip blade. The saw was rated #1 by Workbench Magazine over the GI, DW, and Jet, and there are alot of happy owners out there.

There are several good hybrids around. Each has their selling points. My advice is to take some notes on all the saws you're considering and pick the one you like best. Good luck and keep us posted about your decision.

http://www.epinions.com/content_184778395268

[Jim Becker]

Though it is a new machine and doesn't have a track record, if I were you I'd consider the Grizzly G0478. Can work off 110v and costs $700.

At 120v, that saw will require at least a 25 amp breaker since the rated draw is 20a. It would cost the same to put in a 240v line as it would, more or less, to put in a 25-30amp 120v circuit. 2hp motors really need 240v to operate in that respect.