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Thread: Pen mandrel Q

  1. #1

    Pen mandrel Q

    when turning a pen, does the end of the mandrel not jammed into the spindle just sit out in the air, or is it supported by the tailstock. If it is supported by the tailstock, how do I get the morse taper off. I already tried taking out the hex screw that is in it, but that didn't appear to do anything. I know the little metal cone comes out because it has gotten stuck in stock I have had jammed on tightly in the past, but I couldn't get it off with pliers just now. I have a central Machinery 12" lathe BTW. Also, do the bushings keep the stock from slipping as long as the little knut at the end is on tightly, or should I put some tape under the bushings as well just to hold them on a little tighter?

    Sorry for all the questions

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Orrum, NC
    Posts
    69
    The mandrel is "helped" by a live center mounted in the tailstock. Do NOT overtighten the tailstock against the mandrel. Just enough to help keep it square. The bushings and any spacers (I use extras from slimlines) are placed onthe mandrel and the knurled brass nut should be tight but not too tight. Overtightening the tailstock or the nut will cause the mandrel to bow and you will have an oval pen. Not sure about your "little metal cone" unless that is the live center. If your lathe comes w/ a knock out rod, then you might be able to use it and a hammer for some gentle persuasion. Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Benton Falls, Maine
    Posts
    5,480
    Stephen - I'm not familiar with your lathe, but something makes me think (or recall from another post here) that this lathe does not have a morse taper in the headstock. Rather it just has a solid threaded spindle.

    Before any advice can be tendered we really need to know how this lathe is rigged at the headstock and tailstock.

    1. Spindle threads on the headstock (eg. 8 tpi x 1")
    2. Morse taper at the headstock - (eg. #2MT)
    3. Morse taper at the tail stock - (eg. #2 MT)
    Only the Blue Roads

  4. #4
    It uses #2 morse tapers for the head and tail stock, and it has a 1" 8tpi threading on the head stock. It's essentially a Delta 14" clone, as I have heard and noticed since I use a 14" delta at my school's shop. It does have a knockout bar BTW.

    Thanks for the help

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Benton Falls, Maine
    Posts
    5,480
    Okay! That's a decent configuration.

    After ensuring that the tapers are clean and free if crud, insert the mandrel's taper into the headstock. Depending on the type of mandrel you have, there may be a jamb nut at the head stock end which allows you to adjust the length of the mandrel sticking out from the headstock. If yours has this nut, make sure it's snugged up tight.

    Mount the bushings and pen blanks as indicated by the kit directions. Mount the (in my case) big brass wheel onto the mandrel and snug it up to the last mounted bushing.

    Bring tailstock up, lock in place, and slowly apply pressure with tail stock crank to advance live center into bitter end of mandrel. Not a lot of pressure as that will bend the mandrel, as Bill noted, but just enough to keep things honest and to avoid any whipping action.

    I've read elsewhere here that some guys have acquired special live center points that match the bevel in the bitter end of the mandrel. While I have no experience on that topic, it does make sense.

    Turn pen, complete pen, post pictures, revel in admiration from fellow turners.

    Hope this helps.
    Only the Blue Roads

  6. #6
    Thank you so much, I wasn't sure about bringing the morse taper to bear on the mandrel, but it sounds and looks like that's what I'm supposed to do, so I'll do it.

  7. #7
    By all means make sure you have the end of the mandrel supported by the tailstock live center. Here's a picture of how it can become a weapon of mass destruction if you don't.............

    http://www.turnwood.net/Photopost/sh...cat=500&page=4

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    near Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    846
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Hoyt
    .....I've read elsewhere here that some guys have acquired special live center points that match the bevel in the bitter end of the mandrel. While I have no experience on that topic, it does make sense.....
    Exactly correct. The live centers that come with wood lathes usually have a sharp point(30°) to use for holding wood stock in place. With a metal pen mandrel, you require a live center designed for use with metal which has a 60° point. They are available from many sources. One of the best is www.littlemachineshop.com $22 including shipping for stock number 1189.
    "DO NOT" be tempted to buy the heavy duty version. It will give problems.....the standard duty unit is just fine for pens. This is one of those rare occurrences where bigger is not better!!!

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