Stop that cast iron table from rusting

[Robert Lee]

I would like to get some feedback on a device I have been working on. I have a long history in electronics and have been recently testing on my cast iron table tops a device I have designed which uses a sacraficial anode and impressed current to keep your cast iron tops rust free. A piece of zinc (sacraficial anode) is connected to the underside of your cast iron table top. An electronic circuit impresses a low DC voltage and current through the table top and the anode. Without getting into to much depth, the theory behind this is that the anode will corrode and not the cast iron. I removed any wax which I was previously using to keep the rust off, and have had this device on my table saw since october and have no rust or even a haze of rust as of yet. I live in michigan and the winters are terrible on my tools with cast iron table tops. The device seems to work great for condensation and humidity (no rust), but when water is directly splashed on the table, the device seems to slow down the corrosion process but not totally stop it. Is there a market for a device like this out there? Just want some feedback.

[tod evans]

robert, most folks will be waxing their cast iron for lubrication anyway so i would look at this device as an unneeded gizmo...02 tod

[John Shuk]

There are alot of people who live near the coast. Might help there.

[Brian Hale]

Wax is a no brainer for me. A fresh coat every few weeks and no rust. If i lived in a very humid area and traveled extensively, i might have some interest but the cost would need to be low to get me to buy in.

I'm Not trying to discourage you! Just my initial thought. I appreciate the effort and engineering involved in any product venture so don't give up!!

Brian

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Personally, I think this is a good idea...but even if it were a useless gizmo, which I don't think is, if you could sell it for less than $50, it would probably take two people to buy one and start gloating on a forum...and then you'd be covered up in orders.

KC

[David Fried]

In an unheated shop condensation is the killer for me. If I can still wax things and this helps, really helps, I might be your first customer.

Dave Fried

[Marc Kohlbauer]

My garage/shop could use several of those. Not just the table saw, but the bandsaw, jointer, drill press and moriser too. If you could keep the price low enough, I would be interested!

[Lou Morrissette]

I live about 3/4 mile from the Atlantic and rust is a major problem. Up until now, faithful applications of wax are the norm. If this system works and is in a reasonable price range, it could be attractive in this area. As has already been said, I would still use wax as a lubricant on the flat surfaces. Would this system still work?

good luck

Lou

[Kent Parker]

Robert,

Your system appears to be both a passive system and an active system and I must say confusing to me to say the least

In basic corrosion theory if you can reverse a metals natural potential (voltage) approximately 200 ma it will stop corroding.

To achive this in a passive system, it is common to attach a Mil. Spec. zinc anode (or Magnesium or Aluminum anode) to supply electrons to the cathode (the metal you choose to protect). Additionally, the anode and cathode need to be in the same electrolyte in order for an exchange of ions to take place.

An active system or impressed current system requires a direct current source. With this type of system an anode is attached to one side of the current source and the cathode to the other. The quantity of electrons flow is usually measured against a reference electrode (typically a zinc or silver-silver cloride cell) and the power source is regulated to allow the correct amount of protection. Lack of regulation can be hazardous. As with the passive system, an electrolyte is needed.

You appear to have electrical experience so please tell me, why do you think your system (s) are working?

BTW, wax is really easy.

Cheers,

Kent

[Rob Blaustein]

Interesting idea-sounds like what's in our hot water heaters. Sounds like you and Kent will have an interesting discussion. Whatever mechanism you invoke, I would ask that you please avoid:

1. violating the first law of thermodynamics
2. invoking "cold fusion"

[Allen Bookout]

Twenty years or so ago I was looking into building a steel sailboat and they were working on a system that sounds like that it might be simular to what you are working on. I do not know how effective it was or what ever happened to the project. I think that Steve Dashue (sp) used some sort of this type of system on the aluminum sailboats that he built.

If you could make it work effectively and produce it for a reasonable cost it might be a winner. I live right on the salt water and am able to control the rust effectively with T9 and wax but it would not hurt to have some insurance. Could eliminate the T9 and just some occasional wax would be great.

I do not know what kind of a market you would have but since it is not my money, give it a shot. Easy for me to say.

Allen

[Chris Barton]

Your idea certainly works well on outboard motors, boats and hot water heaters. Just don't try it on a Sawstop table saw...

[Norman Hitt]

Well, for me, the old remedies, ie; wax, T-9, etc work adequately, EXCEPT......that I REALLY need someone to invent something that will instantly neutralize "SWEAT Droplets". I seem to be able to flood all my CI surfaces with them in the spring/summer/fall, here in the HOT Southwest, and they will eat through any of the above mentioned protections in minutes if not simmediately noticed and neutralized. They will then start eating and turning the CI black within the hour, creating deep, black pits overnight if overlooked. (I can't even imagine how bad it would be if I lived in Phoenix or Tucson where it gets even hotter). Sometimes I have gotten so frustrated that I considered painting all the CI surfaces with a hard Epoxy Paint to see if it would eliminate the problem.

[Dave Cavner]

This is not an uncommon topic over at http://www.owwm.com

There are even two articles on the FAQs page regarding rust removal. I think the fellows on that discussion list might be a target market.

[Allen Bookout]

Norman hit my bigest problem here in Southwest Florida, sweat drops. Drives me crazy. Allen