Chainsaw question

[Nathan Burkholder]

I am looking into using a chainsaw mill. Mr. Stu Ablett had some great advice on some of his earlier posts describing his experience in Japan with his chainsaw mill. One of his recommendations is to find an older, heavier chainsaw that has the older engine style with a longer stroke and more torque. I do not know that much about chainsaws so when I am looking at advertisements via the web/classifieds, how do I know if the saw I am looking at has the older style engine or the newer. Is there a date that manufactures switched to using a faster rpm engine with a shorter stroke or is each model number specific to a particular style engine? I will only be using this mill occationally so I was thinking that I would look into getting a medium sized saw with just enough power to manage an 18" diameter cut. Someone recomended to me a Stihl 051. Is this a good choice or is there a better value saw out there? I would appreciate any input. Thank you.

Nathan

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nathan...........First....Welcome to the Creek!

A lot of loggers here use Stihl!

[Steve Clardy]

Welcome to the creek!

[Ed Labadie]

Hi, Nathan
Welcome to SMC.
Stu is correct in the fact that an older "torque saw" would be beneficial in your milling. Lower rpm & more lugging power. I can't give any recommendations on older models because I don't know the specs. For small logs & part time use a saw that is close to 5.0 cubic inch of larger, old or new should work fine.
I recently purchased a Stihl 032 in excellent shape, my local dealer told me to be carefull with it. Stihl is starting to phase out parts for saws that are older than 25 years. Parts support might be an issue with an older saw, check with a dealer before you buy. For parts availability I would go with a Stihl or Husky. Many other old saws are out there for cheap prices, but the companies are out of business, parts & service are nonexistant.

Ed

[Brian Parker]

Stihl, hands down is the best, echo makes a decent one too but I like my stihl better. I used to work for a tree comany a few years ago during a summer break from college. My favorite was the Sthil 036 (20" bar I belive) and a close second was teh 026 (18" bar) Both saws went through whatever it was that I dug em into. Or in the words of my old boss "give em hell", which meant there was only one speed to the saw and it was full throttle

I'm not too familiar with all of the Stihl models but I do know that they change them every few years, but if you have a particular question on one or two models their customer service is very helpful, just send them an inquiry via their site and you should hear someting back in a few days at the most if I recall correctly.

Have fun, give em hell and most importantly safety first, the Stihls aren't a baby saw they have alot of power and if mishandled can make ones day a whole lot worse.

Brian

[Nathan Burkholder]

Thank you Mr. Labadie. I appreciate your advice. I am always fearful about doing something too much on the cheap and regretting my decision later. I don't want to buy an oversized chainsaw that will only be used as needed to replenish my wood stock, but I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars and be upset with myself for not spending a little bit more and getting something that works.

[Jake Helmboldt]

that is what you need more than anything. Stihl makes good saws, but they also have produced crap, just like any other manufacturer. As far as I know Echo does not produce a big saw that you would want for this application.

Husqvarna also makes great saws (I have a 359) and their 385 or 395 would be suitable, but you will spend a lot of money on a saw that has the power needed for any reasonable milling use. A Stihl 066/088 (now 660/880) would be good choices, but again, a lot of money.

Go to arboristsite.com and search around or ask some questions. There have been lots of discussions about this topic there. If you can find a Dolmar/Makita 7900 (Makita now owns Dolmar of Germany and they are identical saws, save the orange or blue color scheme) they are supposed to be rockin' saws and because they don't have the name recognition they are cheaper used, but harder to find. Emil Lerp (Dolmar founder) invented the gas chainsaw and they have been around forever and have a great reputation. Distribution is spotty, but parts available since the Makita network is now involved. You want a 80cc/5.0 cube saw at least if the primary use is milling. And get a ripping chain from Baileys (online).

And be safe.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Hi Nathan

When I started the whole "Logging in Tokyo" saga, I did not know much about chainsaws. I used to use my uncle's to fell trees and buck up fire wood a lot, but aside from that, I knew next to nothing about them.

Now I know a little more than "Next to nothing"

While SMC is a great place for many things, the place to go for all things chainsaw is....
The Arborist Site Chainsaw Forum
(I hope I'm not breaking any rule putting that link there)

This place has so much info on saws it is amazing, and there are many helpful folks there. I even had a guy from Sweden offer to ship me parts for my old Husky if I could not get them myself.

Search about chainsaw milling, and once you have some idea of what to ask, ask away. Understand that it is as nice and friendly as SMC, there are some trolls there, but, there are also an awful lot of VERY good, helpful people, just like here.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!

[Tom Andersen]

Stu did a beautiful job in making his own setup in Tokyo. However, Nathan, if you're in the states, or can get stuff mailed from the states easily, it's much easier to buy a commercial setup such as the "Alaskan". It's not that expensive as compared to the saw, I bought mine from Harbour Freight.

When it comes to the saw, a lot of people use Stihl 064, 066 or 660. I bought mine used on e-bay at around 400 $.

[Nathan Burkholder]

Mr. Ablett:

Thank you for your post. I will look at the forum you recommended. I look forward to hearing about your continued adventures in the dungeon. Thank you for sharing with the rest of us.

Nathan

[Nathan Burkholder]

Mr. Anderson:

I was thinking of doing just what you said. I didn't realize that HF sold the Alaskan mill. I was looking at it on LeeValley's site. Is the HF model the same as the Alaskan MkIII unit LV is selling (the HF one is $20 cheaper)? I assume you are pleased with the HF one you have. My local Stihl dealer says the only used saw he has is a 034 which is too small I guess.

One other question. If you uses one of those beam guides first and trim off the two sides of your log so that it is thinner would you be able to use a smaller saw. I know that this is not as efficient but if the wood is being thrown out otherwise... This way you could maintain a 12-14 inch cut as your maximum thickness. What size of saw would I need if my maximum thickness was 14"?

Thank you for your advice.

Nathan

[Ted Christiansen]

Nathan,

I am partial to the Logosol TimberJig, which I have used since April 2005 to cut quite a bit of wood. I use a Husky 385XP (85CC) using 16", 25" and occasionally 36" bars. The Logosol PMX chain really makes the cutting faster, particularly when the saw is smaller.

You could get away with a smaller (5 hp) saw with the 16" bar and PMX chain.

Regards,

Tedi

[Vaughn McMillan]

Hi Nathan...welcome to the Creek. I don't have any advice regarding chainsaws (other than what's already been given), but I did want to mention that we're all pretty much on a first-name basis here. I recognize and truly admire the respect you're showing by using more formal salutations, but it took me a few seconds to figure out who "Mr. Stu Ablett" was. (Now if you'd said "McGyver-san" I'd know exactly who you meant. ) Feel free to use the more formal approach if you're more comfortable with it, but I don't think anyone here will object to being addressed by first names. I know I won't.

We look forward to seeing which way you decide to go in setting up your chainsaw mill.

- Vaughn

[Ian Abraham]

The Stihl 051 is a 70's vintage 90cc saw. It would do a good job as a milling saw, but it's age is a problem.
Rather than looking for a particular model, figure out what you need power wise. Draw up a short list of possible models and see what comes up for sale. Most of the big saws by the main manufacturers are good / heavy duty machines. The smaller cheaper 'homeowner' size ones are a mixed bunch, some good, some not so good. But you need to go with a big pro saw anyway.
If you only want to drive a 20" bar then you can probably get away with something like a ms440 (70cc), or equivalent made by Husky or Dolmar. Some big old Homelites and Mcollughs can make good milling saws, they are heavy and dont have the modern safety gadgets, so you wouldn't want to use them for normal cutting, but bolted to a mill they will work sweet. Parts are a problem of course

If you want to look up the specs on any saw you come across this site pretty well list them ALL.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...turer?OpenView

One other question. If you uses one of those beam guides first and trim off the two sides of your log so that it is thinner would you be able to use a smaller saw

You can do that with your Alaskan, you just need to be able to move the log (Roll it over). Cut off the top slab first, then roll the log 180 deg and cut off the other side. Now roll it 90 deg and saw out the boards. Yes it's more log handling and you have to do 3 opening cuts (more setup) but your cuts will be faster and the boards will be already edged as you saw them. Also by removing a lot of the bark first your chain will stay sharp longer.

If you need a way to move the log, check out these cant hooks, http://www.logrite.com/ You will want some sort of tool to manouver logs anyway, these are about the best way of manhandling them.

The all time best milling saw is the Stihl 090 - but good luck finding one.. and No, mines not for sale

Cheers

Ian

[Tom Andersen]

Mr. Anderson:

I was thinking of doing just what you said. I didn't realize that HF sold the Alaskan mill. I was looking at it on LeeValley's site. Is the HF model the same as the Alaskan MkIII unit LV is selling (the HF one is $20 cheaper)? I assume you are pleased with the HF one you have. My local Stihl dealer says the only used saw he has is a 034 which is too small I guess.

One other question. If you uses one of those beam guides first and trim off the two sides of your log so that it is thinner would you be able to use a smaller saw. I know that this is not as efficient but if the wood is being thrown out otherwise... This way you could maintain a 12-14 inch cut as your maximum thickness. What size of saw would I need if my maximum thickness was 14"?

Thank you for your advice.

Nathan

Nathan,

I am pretty sure that an Alaskan MkIII is an Alaskan MkIII no matter where you buy it. They all come from http://www.granberg.com/ and you can also buy it from them, but it's more expensive than Harbour Freight.

Concerning the saw, my recommendation is to buy a used Stihl 064/066 on e-bay and be prepared to do a little work on the saw yourself if it has flaws. I use a 32" bar and (mostly) Oregon ripping chain.

I agree with Ian that you don't need a Mini Mill to edge the log. First you mill on the top, then on the bottom (without moving the log), next you roll it 90 degrees and mill the side (which is now top) and the bottom. You only need to roll the log once. I have a Mini Mill but it's not so practical if you have only one saw because it takes quite some time to remove the saw from the Alaskan and place it in the Mini Mill. Also, the Mini Mill is not so precise for large logs. I use the Mini Mill mostly for edging boards after outdoor drying.

I believe that the Alaskan is best for fine and special wood for a hobby workshop. The Alaskan is not a production machine. Use it for that special tree that you happen to get hold of. And one thing more: Quartersaw the log.

Good luck
Tom

Co