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Thread: Sealing the ends of Yew log.

  1. #1
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    Sealing the ends of Yew log.

    I recently found a 14" diameter by 34" long Yew log that has an ingrown crotch at one end of it. I brought it home, but will not be able to saw it up until October when I get my new bandsaw. What should I paint/seal the ends with to keep it from checking until then? Please let me know if there is some common material that I could use instead of buying something new. Thanks.
    "Be true to your work, your word, and your friend." -Henry David Thoreau

  2. #2
    Tom, welcome to the Creek! Great to have you aboard. There is a great group of Woodworkers here, I am sure you will enjoy your time spent browsing Sawmill Creek. While I am far from an expert on this subject, I think you can just coat the ends with Latex Paint to reduce the chance of the Yew checking. I know there are other products, like Anchorseal, that is designed for sealing wood, but I think in lieu of purchasing something, a couple of coats of Latex Paint will suffice. Hopefully, some of the turners will have some advice for you as well. Again, welcome to Sawmill Creek!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Gersty
    Tom, welcome to the Creek! Great to have you aboard. There is a great group of Woodworkers here, I am sure you will enjoy your time spent browsing Sawmill Creek. While I am far from an expert on this subject, I think you can just coat the ends with Latex Paint to reduce the chance of the Yew checking. I know there are other products, like Anchorseal, that is designed for sealing wood, but I think in lieu of purchasing something, a couple of coats of Latex Paint will suffice. Hopefully, some of the turners will have some advice for you as well. Again, welcome to Sawmill Creek!
    Kevin, thanks for both the warm welcome and the hint! I have been watching this forum for a while, and I really like the professional, friendly way that the folks here reply and post. I have participated in other forums that have been rather confrontational and ill tempered, and I really don't like that, so I think I'll settle by 'the Creek' for good!
    "Be true to your work, your word, and your friend." -Henry David Thoreau

  4. #4

    Yep, that makes two on the latex paint.

    Thats all I ever used, just found some old stuff that needed to be used up before it got pitched. Glad to have you on board, Steve


  5. #5
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    Cool You might also try....

    Back in my not-so-wise days, I figured buying glue in bulk would save me $$. Wrong answer! I bought a gallon jug and most wise WW folks will tell you that it shouldn't be used after @ a year or so. BUT, it does work well for sealing log ends! I typically cut it 50/50/ with water and slather it on. Been working great for my stuff.(Oh, and I'm still leaning toward the Delta 2-speed planer!)
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  6. #6

    Anchorseal

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Pritchard
    I recently found a 14" diameter by 34" long Yew log that has an ingrown crotch at one end of it. I brought it home, but will not be able to saw it up until October when I get my new bandsaw. What should I paint/seal the ends with to keep it from checking until then? Please let me know if there is some common material that I could use instead of buying something new. Thanks.

    Tom,

    Others have refered to Anchorseal, but not really suggested it. The web site: https://www.uccoatings.com/prod_anchorseal.php shows several applications. If you call the phone number listed there ((716) 833-9366) they will send you a free quart to get you hooked. It works MUCH better than latex paint.

    I got my free quart a while ago and am just about ready to get another (paid for this time). Shipping from Buffalo to Rochester should not take long at all. I'd put plastic bags over the ends of it, or over the whole thing until the Anchorseal gets there though.

    I grabbed a piece of river birch Friday PM hours after it was cut, took it home and stood it on end on the concrete floor. I didn't get around to putting Anchorseal on it till Sunday PM and already BOTH ends had checked. I did have the AC running, so the humidity was lower than outside, but I did not expect the bottom to check on the concrete.

    Where are you in Rochester? I went to school and met my Henrietta native Wife at RIT.

    Glen Smith

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glen Smith
    Others have refered to Anchorseal, but not really suggested it.
    You beat me to it...Anchoseal is the way to go. While it may appear that paint "works", it's pretty ineffective as a sealer. A 5 gallon can of Anchorseal is relatively affordable (you can always sell some to others if you want to) and doesn't spoil. Some AAW chapters buy it buy the 55 gallon drum and sell it to members at a lower price than even the 5 gallon rate.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    Something that works very well, and is available at your local builders's yard, is Asphalt Roofing Emulsion -- or names like that. It is black guck that is mostly asphalt, but in a spreadable form. It is intended to patch roofs in rainy weather, so it happily bonds to wet surfaces -- for instance, a freshly-cut log. It cures in a few hours, and forms a complete water barrier. I spread it with a shingle or a putty knife. It costs around $7/gal.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
    Something that works very well, and is available at your local builders's yard, is Asphalt Roofing Emulsion -- or names like that. It is black guck that is mostly asphalt, but in a spreadable form.
    But don't forget to cut off those log ends before you get them anywhere near your shop equipment. The petro-chemicals in it could also leach into the wood and at $7 a gallon, it's about the same price as Anchorseal.

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