Router Table Help: Build or Buy?

[Scott Vigder]

I'm ready to step-up to a permanenet set-up for my router station. I need a fixed surface when using 1/2" bits. I'm currently using an old Hitachi router with a 1/4" collett that I found attached to a small table-top router table at an auction. I also have a PC 893PK with the fixed and plunge bases, but neither of these will fit in the table top router table that I have.
I bought a horizontal router table from MLCS last year, but the plexiglass that holds my heavy router is not stable enough and the router flexes (ever so slightly) when under load. I ordered an aluminum router plate for the PC from Rockler, and after all the time it took to correctly adapt it to the horizontal table I find out the plate does not have enough vertical length to work on the MLCS table. Arrgghhh. $200 out the window .
I've watched Norm build his table, but I wasn't happy with the fence he has. Instead of adjusting the left side of his fence to accommodate for removed stock, he placed (taped, I think) shims on the left side.
So where do I turn for advice? Da Creek, of course! I need some input and direction on tables that have been built by Creekers and which purchased tables seem to work best.
I build mostly tables, desks, chairs, and bookcases and have a 4" DC system.
Thank you for your help.

[Jim Becker]

I firmly believe, despite getting "verbally abused" by a router table manufacturer a few years ago for saying so, that a router table is generally best build by the user. There are so many things you can do to make it match the way you work and it's a perfect opportunity to learn new techniques and "creatively" leverage scrap from previous projects that may be in your shop. I'm on my second one. The first was nice and I learned a lot from it. Same goes for my present one. Definitely worth the time I spent building them.

[Randy Looney]

Hello Scott,

I will have to agree with Jim, build your own table. I have bought 2 router tables at different times in my learning of wood working and what I want in a table the last 3 years. The first table was a quick and easy way for me to learn and the second one I bought out of need to spin larger bits and not having the time to build one. I just purchased a 3 1/4 Hp router. Now I will build a table for it when time allows. Several projects to finish first.

[Dave Falkenstein]

My home shop router table has evolved through three generations. My current setup is one I'm very satisfied with, that seems to do whatever I toss at it. I use an Incra Twin Linear fence from Woodpeckers. The fence is fully adjustable on both halves and has super-fine accuracy and repeatability. In addition to normal router table tasks, the fence can be used to do joinery, including dovetails and box joints. Look here for Woodpeckers current fence options:

http://www.woodpeck.com/routersystems.html

After putting off building a second base cabinet for far too long, I bought a steel cabinet from Woodpeckers. Unfortunately those steel cabinets are no longer available. If I were building a cabinet today, I would use the Jointech Routing Center, here:

http://www.jointech.com/routerstation.htm

Jointech also offers some fence options, similar in features to the Incra fences from Woodpeckers.

I built my own top, using two layers of 3/4" MDF, laminated on both sides with Formica and edge banded with 1/2" maple. I have a detailed description of the steps to build that top, and you are welcome to email me if you want a copy.

The router and plate/lift are dependent on each other. I like using a lift, and have the Plunge Lift from Woodpeckers. Chose whatever router you want to use and then select a lift or plate that is compatible with that router. My decision was made several years ago and is not pertinent in the selection of routers available today. The PC 7518 and the Milwaukee above-the-table adjustable routers are favorites of lots of folks. You will want a 3HP router with soft start and adjustable speed.

[Andy London]

I have been through this a few times, I think I'm on my 4th cabinet.....My personal opinion is build the cabinet, buy the top and fence. The cabinet part is a personal thing to me, the setup I have now meets the needs of what I do at each station, I have two of these in my shop although not quite the same.

[Cecil Arnold]

I built for about half what a comparable table would have cost and still think mine is better than any I've seen commercially. I used a plan from The Router Book, which is really very close to the NYW plan. Were I doing it again (and may in the future) I would consider trying to replicate Pat Warner's fence, or look at the Incra system. I have a Woodpeck aluminum lift holding a 3 1/4 hp router (Freud) and a laminated 1 1/2" BB table.

[Peter M. Spirito]

I bought my first, a small Craftsman that I still use for "round overs" etc., built my second like the one used on the Router Workshop. Now I am building my third with a tall fence, t-tracks, miter track, sliding fences with zero clearence fence inserts for the large profile bits, etc. The router table and fence is one piece of equipment that we can build and custom build and display and use in the shop as an example of our work. I say build, its worth it just for the experience.

[Mark Pruitt]

If you build your own RT, you get the benefit of dictating the size rather than having to accept what manufacturers offer. That meant a lot to me because I wanted something a little bigger. I built the one out of American Woodworker from spring of 2003, with a couple of modifications including a bigger top, casters, and lower compartment dust collection. The fence has some nice features including sub-fences that can easily be made in bulk and sacrificed when the job calls for zero clearance T-tracks allow for featherboards, stops, etc. There is no miter guage, but a sled can be made that rides in the T-Track, performing the same function as the miter guage. I took my time, gave attention to details, and in addition to saving at least a couple hundred dollars, I got the benefit of a job I could be proud of.
Mark

[tod evans]

build........02 tod

[Dave Walker]

I say build your own too. It's a really fun and functional project.

[Jesse Cloud]

One of these days, I'm gonna build my own, and its on my project list, but twenty items down, so probably a couple of years out. In the mean time, I bought the router table system from Lee Valley. They have put a lot of thought into their system and you can get as much or as little as you want. It has a steel table (no sag), a clever system of inserts for different bit sizes, a two part steel fence, shims, micro-adjustment for the fence, dust control, a router raiser, etc, etc. I got most of the options except the raiser. I used their plans to build a quick and dirty stand for it in a couple of hours. Someday, I might build a cabinet around that stand. But for now, it meets my needs and I can get on to other things that I feel are better learning experiences for me right now.
My two cents...

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Yipper, like they all say, build it.

I'm planning on building mine for the triton I just bought. I want to make it double as a mortising station.

[Don Baer]

I built my own including the fence. I went to pat Warners site and copied some of the ideas from his site for my fence. While I didn't copy the entire fence I will some day.

Here a link

http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html

[Don Morris]

I'm in the process of building my second. The first was bought. Didn't meet my needs. I do have a top of line Bench Dog fence. That works OK. But the last table was 2 1" MDF glued with formica on both sides with Maple edgebanding. It had router bit storage, dust collection, tracks (which as a rookie I didn't have positioned as well as I should have...the new table will). And it had a 3 1/4 HP Porter Cable Router mounted on a "Rout-R-Lift". Doesn't matter which kind of lift. I really liked the lift convenience. Only reason I'm doing a new table is I just bought a new table saw and using the opportunity to correct and improve the previous table. I have the table mounted to the right of the table saw for convenience and space utilization in a small shop. Purchased router tables are OK, but a custom built is just that, mine absolutely fits my requirements, space, and pocket book. Plus the joy of accomplishment, which it seems we creekers like. In the end, it's whtever floats your boat.

Don M

[Gary Curtis]

My entire shop is new. The very last equipment on my list was a router table. From the outset,I dreaded this step because I don't want any more machinery hogging valuable floor space.

So I started looking at options for installing a router in my saw table extension leaf. I looked at BenchDog, Lee Valley, Jointech, MCLS, and a few others.

Only in the last few weeks have I gotten some solid and eye-opening info. In a few years from now, router lifts will be history. That is a fact. A few companies are now making routers with a height adjustmentABOVE THE TABLE. That saved me $250.

I bought a Milwaukee 5616 configured that way. One or two Porter Cables and a Bosch model offer the same feature. $30 on the current sale at Amazon. I already have a DeWalt 625 for plunge routing.

Because of my workload getting this entire shop done,I won't make a fence. Though that is a good way to go because it is relatively easy. I overlooked a small item in the WoodHaven catalog that answered my need. They make a Split Router fence, with dust collection, that clamps to your rip fence on a table saw. If you've got a good fence (I have Biesemeyer), not you have excellent position of the router fence taken care of.

The fence has sliding T-tracks for hold-downs, safety guards, and a lateral push-bar. The outfeed side comes with shims for jointing.

No need for the $1000 digital positioning fences out there. More money in your pocket.

And I found out from Pat Warner - who has that wonderful webset on router uses and products - that my particle-board extension table is just fine at supporting a router insert plate. All I need to do is brace it a bit with 1x2 joists.

WoodHaven is drilling my insert plate for $20 so it has the correct bolt pattern for the router base and above-table access to the height adjustment with a speed wrench.

In all, it seemed crazy to heap over $1000 into routing equipment.

Gary Curtis