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Thread: Wall cabinet nailer info?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA
    Posts
    2,364

    Wall cabinet nailer info?

    May I please get some opinions/guidance on the placement and positioning of nailers in upper (wall) cabinets. I can't find any info in the Tolpin book that I have about placement (other than top and bottom of course) and number of nailers.

    I am making 42" uppers and I'm wondering if just a top and bottom nailer is enough. Should I add a third in the middle?

    Also, many moons ago when hanging cabinets on tracts, the nailers were visible and I have always ( actually very few times) made them that way since. But I've also recently seen nailers behind the backs.

    As far as material, I guess that I could edge band the plywood nailer and put a decorative edge on it so that there's not a plywood edge (shaped or not) showing. Or should I use matching hardwood, in this case oak?


    What about width? Is there a standard width for nailers? I have used 2 1/2" because it seems wide enough to provide support but not too wide to look too ugly.


    Thanks very much for your help.
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

    "All roads lead to a terrestrial planet finder telescope"

    We arrive at this moment...by the unswerving punctuality...of chance.

  2. #2
    I use 2" nailers, attached to the back, top of carcass, before the 1/4 back goes on.
    Sometimes I use ply, only when I don't have an excess of solid wood around, or I get way too many ply scraps lying around. I don't worry about the plys showing on the bottom of the nailer too much, unless its high end cabs.
    Top nailers are all I use. No middle, lower.
    I double screw each stud, thus no need for other nailers.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Fairfax, VA
    Posts
    76

    Another thought..

    is just to use 1/2" backs (for just uppers of course)....no strips, very stout, and a little more pretty.

  4. #4
    On smaller wall cabinets I use hanging cleats at the top only made from ply or 3/4" solid stock (anywhere from 2-4" wide) that is screwed from the sides of the cabinet (on end cabinets I skin over the ends which hides fasteners). Really large wall cabinets and corner cabinets I make the back out of 1/2" ply and don't worry about hanging cleats. Double fastening on each stud or through banding behing the wall is plenty strong enough support at the top and just put a couple screws through the back at the bottom to prevent it from lifting away from the wall. I don't mount haing cleats behind the back as I like to have a 1/4" reveal on backs for scribing to wall if needed and the cleat behind the back would get in the way.
    Matt Tawes
    Chesapeake Woodcraft

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    2,550
    I have taken to using a french cleat system with the cleat on the wall & the other half of the cleat recessed into the back of the cabinet I just lift the cabinet into place & thats it. I can put 1 or 2 screws into each stud.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

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