easy straight line rip?

[Joe Chritz]

I would love to have a dedicated SLR saw but since the funds are a bit out there for me I am looking for a way to do it on my tablesaw.

Anyone have pictures of setups they use for straightening one edge of rough lumber?

I was thinking of a piece of 3/4 ply with a couple De sta co clamps. I have read of several methods but I figure why re-invent the wheel. Someone is bound to have an easy method that is proven to work.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

[Mark Rios]

I was thinking of a piece of 3/4 ply with a couple De sta co clamps. I have read of several methods but I figure why re-invent the wheel. Someone is bound to have an easy method that is proven to work.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

I just did exactly that, Joe. I carefully (to assure a straight edge) ripped a 12" x 48" piece of 3/4" oak ply that I'm using for my current job and attached three of those clamps. One in the middle and the others 10" from the ends. I pre-cut the lengths of my oak face frame material to rough lengths. I decided arbitrarily on 1/2" and left that much of the edge hanging off the plywood, measuring at each end. By using a standard overhang I could set the fence distance and leave it, however my material had fairly straight edges already so the waste was only 1/16" to 1/4" for each piece.

hth

[Jim Becker]

I've used a piece of scrap hard board to get a "straight" edge on unusually shaped stock, either using small screws or my pinner to fasten it to the material near the ends sufficiently to allow it to ride down the table saw fence. Cheap and easy. Of course, I'd love to have a slider in the shop to deal with this...

[Brandon Shew]

How about something like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0saw%20jointer

[Chris Fite]

I have done what Mark has done with a piece of 10 foot plywood and some clamps. I set the clamps over on the plywood so that the board buddies would hold and allow the plywood to track down the fence on my table saw. I have straightlined hundreds of feet of wood this way.

[Per Swenson]

Hi Joe,

I get to straighten truckloads of rough sawn Mahogany

with the setup below. That board is the metric equivilent of 13 feet.

Per

[Mark Singer]

A very good way is to use an aluminium extrusion as an edge to ride along the fence...I have demonstrated this in several posts and it works very well....a great deal of my furniture begins with rough lumber...check this thread..

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...=straight+line

[Robert E Lee]

Joe, I have used the Joint'R clamp kit and a 1 1/2 x1/4 streight flat bar for years, I thought there were $14.99 a set. I get almost all of my wood ruff cut and have to trim the edges. They have worked great.
Bob

[tod evans]

joe, i do something similar to what you`re suggesting but simpler, i take a 6-7 inch piece of plywood/mdf/whatever, and glue a 1inch piece down one edge and across one end. lay the board to be straightlined on the saw hook toward the fence and place your guide on top with the points of the hook touching the one inch piece, jamb the whole affair against the fence and rip a straight line. no clamps required, no fasteners to remove and even a hillbilly can get good results.........02 tod

[Joe Chritz]

Sometimes the best solution is the easiest.

I think I'll build something like Tod suggested until I spring for a rail guided saw.

If I got this right it is just like a sled, only upside down with no clamps. Sounds simple, fast and best of all, cheap.

Thanks again.

Joe

[tod evans]

simple/fast/cheap.........yup! but you forgot functional

[Ian Barley]

Anything that is tool long for the carriage on my slider now gets straigtened with the Festool on a rail. Not that cheap but fast, convenient and accurate.

[Burt Waddell]

Joe,

Over the was few years, I have tried several techniques for getting lumber straight line ripped. By far the easiest is an EZ Smart guide. You place the guide rail exactly where the cut will be - it's easy to just miss that slab edge. It is a lot lighter to handle than the methods of attaching another board and running it thru the table saw. I even purchased a 10 1/4" circular saw so I can handle the big stuff. Naturally, I then cut to length with the new EZ Smart Table Saw.