Question: Does the PC4212 dovetailing jig work as well as it appears???

[Ken Shoemaker]

The problem is that I've overspent in the last year (read; waaaayyyy overspent). So much so, that if I pull the trigger on the DT jig and I don't use it enough because it's difficult, I'm afraid the LOML will beat me like a baby seal......

Thanks in advance...... Ken

[Chris Barton]

Hiya Ken,

The PC is a very solid unit and works well. The issue with all of the DT machine systems is that of thickness of your stock. Your router must be adjusted for the thickness of the stock for the joint to be accurate. Once that is done it will make a thousand DT joints flawlessly. Also, since the pins and tails are set in spacing you need to pay attention so that you end with half pins on either side so you have to regulate your drawer size based upon the bit size. If what you are looking for is a jig that will produce perfect repeatable halfblind DT joints, then the PC is near perfection. If you are looking for lots of flexibility on spacing the pins and tails, and the ability to do throught DT joints then you might want to consider a Leight D4.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Chris,
Thanx for the reply. I think I've been reading that the 4212 does thru DTs. Is that wrong or it simply doesn't do it as well?

[Chris Barton]

It does but, throught DTs are a little more complex than HB but, not a big deal. The biggest issue is that you have to change the template and switch over to a strait bit when you cut the pins. So, the issue is making sure that the depth of cut remains the same.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Chris, Again, a huge thank you.....

Ken

[Thomas Walker]

I got one for Christmas and it works as advertised. PC has a more detailed instruction manual on their website.

It's easy to use, but the joint does look a bit mechanical. This would be more of an issue with through DT's, not so much with half-blind unless you pull out all the drawers at the same time.

Because of the extra time it takes to cut DT's and increased opportunity for botching a cut, I prefer using pocket screws hidden behind false fronts for drawers -- much quicker and easier.

One other tip. Many people think the DT bit that comes with the jig is junk and gives lots of splintering. Woodcraft sells a whiteside bit that is much better.

[Rick Doyle]

hi,

thanks for the info chris. like ken, i have been considering the pc4212 for quite a long time now and your advice has helped clarify some issues i was wondering about.

[Michael Adelong]

I just bought one a few weeks ago. Only made 3 sets of through DTs since I've had it.

1st set in pine - Massive tearout on front and back but the DTs fit.

I read a little more of the manual, and saw the "light 1st pass" trick. Noticed that my backer board had slipped, causing the tearout in the rear.

2nd set in 1/2" white oak. - Used light first pass and a fully tightened backer board. Perfect DTs.

Cut them off just for giggles. 3rd set turned out perfect too. I need to make just a minor adjustment to the bit height adjuster to get the pins a little proud.

The bad part about this jig. It uses PC templet guides and my Bosch plunger doesn't. So I went back and bought a PC 690 to use for DTs. Doing just these 3 sets of DTs was enough to figure out that a whole kitchen full of drawers would be a lot of bit swapping. So... I went back and bought a second PC 690. . I hadn't used it before the Woodcraft flyer came in the mail, so I returned it to take advantage of the 690 & bit set deal.

I can't recommend this jig until they remove the second router excuse... er, problem.

M-