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Thread: Best way to attach face frames

  1. #1

    Question Best way to attach face frames

    Hello All-

    I am building some cabinets for a lady at our church. I have the cases and the face frames built.

    I was wondering... What is the best way to attach the face frames to the cases? I'm assuming glue and some small nails, but was wondering if there was a better way. Also, there are 3 cabinets, each with their own face frame. Now I am wondering if I should have built the face frame in one big assembly. I'm concerned that the face frames be nice and flush with each other when I hang them.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks.

    Brad Tallis

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Modesto, CA
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    2,364
    I like glue and pocket screws.
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

    "All roads lead to a terrestrial planet finder telescope"

    We arrive at this moment...by the unswerving punctuality...of chance.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,638
    I use glue and either pocket screws or biscuits. I never use brads or nails for this particular job.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    New Lenox, Illinois
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    Biscuits .. They align the face frames perfectly too. Takes the guesswork out of it.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  5. #5
    I also vote for glue and pocket screws.

    It is customary to put a horizontal left/right screw from one face frame into the next, to pull the cabinets tight together and keep them aligned. If it isn't too late, make the face frames about 1/8 inch larger than the cabinets on the sides, so that the fronts touch tight even if the wall is a little uneven.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Forest Hill, Maryland, USA
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    165
    Pocket holes, screws and glue in areas that you can't see the pocket holes. glue and clamp on other areas. Brads and putty look unprofessional IMO.

    I build face frames in as long a piece as I can but you can make yours look good, no big deal.

    Good Luck.

    PHil

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Mt. Pleasant, MI
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    No best way all the time.

    I ditto a couple others in that I now use pocket screws where they will not be visible. Either biscuits/glue or just glue and clamps where it will be seen. Other people clamp the frames on and shoot a couple pins in, angled from the back side where they won't be seen

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Just glue and clamps. Save the screws....Jack

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
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    1,050
    Glue and pocket screws

  10. #10
    A little tutorital I have on another forum.

    http://thewoodworkers.us/phpBB2/view...ght=face+frame


    I use glue, brad from the inside. No unsightly pocket screw holes, no biscuits.

    edit. I always overhang the face frame on at least one cab when they attach together .
    Last edited by Steve Clardy; 04-15-2006 at 8:15 PM.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957

    Lineup

    When building large (upscale) bookcase units that will be installed in a run, I always line up the boxes to get a nice, flush look on my FF at the shop (before delivery to the site) then clamp the units together, and drill/install that screw gizmo that is a male screw from one side to a female threaded insert on the adjoining unit (forget the real name for those gizmos). When installing the units at the site, I screw them together and shim as necessary to make up for out of plumb/square stuff. As Charlie said, leave a little overhang on the FF to get a clean look even if the carcase ends up with a slight bow in it. If all else fails and you can't get a clean, flush, tight look at the FF joinup, then run a "Vee" groove or core box router bit down the line and accent it rather than hide it. Try it on some scrap to see what I mean. Oh yeah, glue/clamp works well and it is a real "you-know-what" to get a good color match when filling FF nail holes.
    David

  12. #12
    I always use tongue and groove to attach the face frame to the cabinet, there are a lot of router sets to do this.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
    Posts
    1,508

    Thumbs up face frame

    I worked in a custom cabinet shop for two years the way we did it was dado the face frame , apply white glue in the dado, install frame to the box, hot melt glue the frame to the box on the inside and let white glue set up and its done. The hot melt works as your clamp , very fast assemble once you have all your frames dadoed...
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  14. #14
    I'm with Jack, glue and clamp. Now the best way to clamp it is a story for another....
    Bowclamp "good caul"

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Fairfax, VA
    Posts
    76
    For paint grade I glue and shoot a finish nail. For stain grade just glue and clamp. Make a couple 2X6 "stands" and clamp for 30 minutes. By the time you whip up your next face frame or two, remove previous and repeat A couple times I have had to remove the glued FF from the case and the FF left behind CHUNKS on the ply edge so I've never been concerned of not enough strength from just glueing..

    <img src="http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL563/2750473/9536181/140095722.jpg">

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