Is it time to stop tuning?

[Clinton Findlay]

G'day all.
I'd like to seek a little advice on the subject of hand plane tuning.

I have recently tuned a smoother plane and decided to measure the shavings (its the first time I've measured shavings).
The plane takes a 0.002" thick shaving, and I'm pretty happy with this.
The downside is that the mouth is 7/32th" wide, and the frog can't be adjusted to close the mouth.
Other than fitting a new, heavier, blade I'm thinking of stopping the tuning process.
I'm pretty happy with the planes performance and I think that from here on, due to the wide mouth, it will be a case of more work for little extra benefit.
The sole is lapped flat, the blade's back has been polished and the edge is microbeveled on a fine waterstone. I have not done a great deal to the frog and chipbreaker/levercap yet.
So, from a "thin shaving" perspective, is 0.002" an indication that I'm getting things right, or should I aim for a thinner shaving?

I am quite happy with the performance, but measuring the shavings has set off a few thoughts of "how thin a shaving can I make this very ordinary plane take?"

All comments gratefully received.

[Dan Forman]

Clinton---In well behaved (straight grained) wood, it should be able to take a .001" shaving, even without a really tight mouth. It's just a matter of sneaking up on the blade adjustment. Of course, there isn't much difference between .001 and .002. Easiest way to adjust the blade is to retract so that it doesn't catch at all, then gradually ease it out until it just barely grabs as you are pushing the plane forward. It's always best to stop adjusting as you are moving the blade out, rather than in.

What kind of plane is it?

Dan

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hi Clinton. The planes mouth only really needs to be closed up to control tearout. You can have a wide open mouth and still get a .001" shaving, just you may get more tearout. Peter

[Clinton Findlay]

Thanks Dan and Peter.
It is a Sargent Auto-set 708 that someone decided to attack with a file.
I got it to practice tuning on prior to doing another that has a bit of sentimental value for me.

I'm glad I stumbled upon it as I really like the Auto-set mechanism, although my comment about "not doing much about the chipbreaker/lever cap" perhaps should read "I think I am not able to do much to the chipbreaker/lever cap."
I'm not too sure how much I can do to that area in the way of tuning.

If you are familiar with the Auto-set design: I am thinking of putting shims behind the blade to close the mouth a little, however I can only go forward a small amount way due to the position of the 'lever cap' pin.
I really am starting to be affected by the "law of diminishing returns".

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Clinton,

Thin, fluffy shavings are neat to make. But other than a final smoothing on difficult woods, it isn't practical.

Thin shavings are one of those things that indicate a finer level of tuning a plane. But in a real-life work situation the goal is to produce a finished or near-enough finished dimension or surfacing which may well be sanded prior to really being done. The goal is to get there as efficiently as possible.

The openess of the mouth will prevent thick shavings from being produced, not the thinnest of ones. You may well be able to obtain a thicker replacement blade from Ron Hock that will work in your plane. Alternately, a thicker blade can also be had from Lie-Nielsen.

A new thicker blade will obviously close-up the mouth gap and has benefits a shim cannot impart--its stiffer and made from better steel. As to whether either company can make one fit the AutoSet, I don't know.

Take care, Mike

[Clinton Findlay]

Thanks for your input Mike.

I must admit to be playing with the idea of making it shave as thin as possible "just 'cause I can".
It has been an interesting experience to see the cause and effect as I go through the tuning process, normally I just tune the plane and then see how well it works.

I'm of the opinion that it is shaving more than fine enough for final smoothing, and agree with your comment on efficient work, not being a fan of 'faffing' about wasting time. I am hoping that if I tune my planes enough, I can move away from needing to sand, something that I find boring.

AFAIK only St James Bay Tool Co sell replacement Auto-set blades, and there are made to the original thin specification. I'd prefer to shim than make my own blade.

Again thanks all.<!-- / message -->