what accessories do I need for my new jointer?

[russell johansen]

Thanks to all who helped me select a jointer as my next tool. Picked up the delta x5 six inch jointer at the Tacoma woodworking show for $400. Will pick up next week.

Now, what accessories if any do I need?
One poster mentioned jigs for aligning the knives. Good idea for a newbie with little mechanical knowledge? (good idea=saves considerable time and makes life less frustrating) If so, what do I search for or where do you suggest. Amazon has the following

Delta 37-157 Magna-Set Joiner Knife Setting Jigs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223DS/qid=1146448910/sr=8-2/ref=pd_bbs_2/102-5051616-7251358?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

for about $45. Is this what I am looking for? I am assuming the stock knives will be fine while I get to know my new tool.

Anything else I need?

Is there a book you would recommend picking up?

I'll be setting it up after my kidney stone procedure (all together now-cross your legs and say ouch ) in a couple of weeks. Will post pictures once I get it set up. thanks again.

PS it is wired for 110 but should I rewire for 220? My father in law will be here to help since I am still learning how to plug things in. My shop is wired for both. What are the advantages?

[Jim Becker]

If your jointer has jack-screws, you don't need or want a "magnetic" knife setting jig. It's useful if your machine uses springs, however.

Frankly, what you need is some wood to practice face jointing and edge work with.

[Jamie Buxton]

I always wear gloves when I'm running mine. The specific gloves are the ones which are knit cotton/lycra, with a high-friction rubber front surface. They're nothing exotic -- perhaps $5 at your local builders store. They come in different sizes, so you can get ones which fit tightly to your hands. They give me a better grip on the wood -- particularly highly polished wood. Losing control of the workpiece is not a pleasant prospect.

This said, I know there are folks on this board who have a categorical rule against gloves in a woodshop. We've discussed this particular issue in other threads, and can only agree to disagree. I think I'm safer with my gloves than without.

[Joe Chritz]

My jointer has a pair of flat push blocks for face jointing and a 4" steel square.

Anything else is gravy.

220 volt will run on less amps. I can't say since I am not an electrician but I have heard there is little benefit for motors under 2 HP to be on 220.

My 1.5 HP t/s is on 220 so I could share a circuit with the shaper. Until the shaper came it was 110 with no trouble.

I agree with Jim. I had a fair kearning curve on my ridgid jointer. After a barrell or two of chips its old hat.

Joe

["Gary Brewer"]

I set up my first new jointer last year and my first few attempts to use it were horrible. The wood was never square and it tapered. I found that the infeed and outfeed tables were off a lot. That is they were not parallel to each other. That was also why I coundn't keep the fence perpendicular to the infeed and outfeed tables. When it was square to one table it was off on the other and when I moved the fence it would not be square on the same table that it had been square. I was very frustrated. I bought a 24" steel straight edge from Lee Valley'( around $38) . It is guaranteed accurate .001 of an inch along its whole length. I spent a few hours adjusting my jointer ( also a Delta so don't trust the setup on it) and it works wonderfully now. I got the two table to be parallel. It is amazing how well the jointer works. The fence is perpendicular to the tables at all times. I can easily get a face flat and square to an adjacent edge. I am very happy with my jointer. I also bought one of the delta magnetic jointer blade setters. I didn't and haven't used it. I used my Starett 12 combination square blade ( just the blade ). Put it on the outfeed table and extended it over a cutter blade and just adjusted the cutter blades to just touch the blade. Rock the jointer blade cartridge back and forth to just scrape the Starett blade. I don't know if this is considered bad but it worked for me, ( I am just a beginner so the last part may not be considered good. All I know is it worked for me.)

[Doug Ketellapper]

I wouldn't worry about rewiring the motor to 220 volts. There are some folks who have some anecdotal evidence that their tools "run better" at the higher voltage, but I've yet to see any actual measured proof. The motor itself will not run cooler or more efficient at 220 versus 110. The windings in the motor will see the same current at either voltage because of how it's wired. The only advantage will be in the wiring supplying the tool, which if it is sized properly shouldn't make a difference either. The only other benefit I can see is if you overload a tool causing the motor to slow down and it to demand more current which the wiring might have a hard time supplying. If this is a problem and you find yourself overloading a tool regularly then I think technique is probably the issue, or perhaps an undersized motor.

[Alan DuBoff]

Wood is a nice accessory, plenty of it!

[Jim Becker]

220 volt will run on less amps. I can't say since I am not an electrician but I have heard there is little benefit for motors under 2 HP to be on 220.

Nope. Same total amps...just split between two legs. 12 amps at 120v is the same as 6 amps at 240v.

[Scott Loven]

How about the jointer set-up video from Taunton, $10-12.
Other tools: a good 24" straight edge, and a good machinist square. Check Lee Valley
Scott

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I got the 9' whip antenna with the coil spring and the little LED on the top, and a 100 watt linear amplifier. After that I got those little chrome female shadow figurinenes for the outfeed flaps and the DC housing.

Someday I plan on getting lights to outline the whole rig. It's going to be so cool.

Accessories? A couple of pusher blocks but you can make those, a blade setting tool - maybe - I never felt the need for one. Oh and some lumber you will definitely need lumber.

Honestly I am stumped. I never thought of a jointer as something that needs accessories.
Of course I could be missing out on something way cool.

Now that the idea in on the table however, I think maybe I ought to look into a color matching set of accent lights and that antenna is looking more appealing.

[Joe Chritz]

Jim is correct in the 220 does not use less amps. A 30 amp 110 circuit is still 30 amps in 220 but could in theory run on a 15 amp 220 breaker. Obviously codes dictate what breakers are needed for different circuits.

In the above example it could run on 12 gauge wire which is what I was trying to say. Don't expect a savings in electrical power use or more power from a motor.

It pays to plan ahead so you aren't rerunning wires when you step up to a shaper that only runs on 220. I know someone who did something like that.

Joe

[Steve Clardy]

I'd invest in a good long straight edge for aligning tables, a good square for the fence alignment.
As far as jointer pals and such, I've always used the blade setting tools that come with the machine. Always worked for me.
And I would wire to 220.

[Michael Ballent]

DUST COLLECTION, Incra guarateed square, Grr-rippers, Grip Tite magnetic feather board, did I mention dust collection, and if you have the bucks a power feeder then you can drop the Grr-rippers and feather board.

[Scott Vigder]

This is the ultimate accessory for all power and automotive equipment.

[Thomas Canfield]

You should consider a metal detector and good steel wire brush if you do any work with used lumber such as pallets or wood that has laid outside. A nick in a set of jointer blades is a serious problem, more so than on a planer. One can offset the nicks in the 3 blades for a quick fix if the nick is small. It feels like an accomplishment when a rough board is trued up and you can put it to use. I am in the final stages of dressing up rough western cedar to make an arbor and handrail for some steps. So far there has been about 40 gallons of wood chips from the jointer and planer for this simple project, but the smooth and straight wood is worth the effort.