Corian Dye-Sub Project - Peek-A-Boo

[Keith Outten]

The photograph below is of a 20" by 14" piece of Dupont Glasier White Corian that was dye-sublimated with a black and white photo called "Peek-A-Boo". The process involves a special ink that will transfer into the Corian approximately 2 to 3 thousandths of an inch deep. Basically the print is placed in contact with the Corian and placed in a heat press, the ink then transfers after a suitable soak time.

This process is applicable to signs and photographs, color works extremely well also. A Corian dye-sublimated product can withstand up to 30 years of exterior service expoesed to UV without fading and is impervious to hot and cold weather, rain sleet and snow.

After dye-sublimating several small projects I found a company that sells wider paper by the roll. This allows me to press larger projects up to the limits of my printer and heat press. After the photo was dye-sublimated the Corian blank was cut to size on a table saw and the edges routed with a roman ogee bit on my router table.

I wish you could see this plaque in person, the detail is just incredible. The plaque photo was taken with a Canon 10D and just the camera flash, the plaque is sitting on my ShopBot . Photo credit - Jamie Hayes of Hayes Fisk-Taylor Photography in Richmond, Virginia. This photo was a Kodak Elite Award Winner. (Photo duplicated with permission) The original photograph was a 25 megabyte digital file.

Special thanks to SMC Member Ken Dolph for all the help and guidence he gave me while I was learning to dye-sub Corian. Ken is SawMill Creek's resident expert on the subject and was really nice to take his time and share his knowledge.

Click on the thumbnail pic for larger view.

[Lee DeRaud]

Keith, when you say "heat press", just what kind of temperature and time is required? Will a regular photo dry-mount press work?

Ah, reality just slapped me: this also involves a special printer, yes?

[Keith Outten]

Lee,

You must have a printer that is capable of using a dye-sublimable ink that is heat transferable. Mine is an Epson 1280 using Artanium ink cartridges. The heat press must be able to provide 320 degrees F.

Special note to Ed Lang...Ed you must add Corian dye-sub plaques to your business list. I haven't had one person who held this in their hands that didn't say WOW!

[Ed Lang]

Special note to Ed Lang...Ed you must add Corian dye-sub plaques to your business list. I haven't had one person who held this in their hands that didn't say WOW!

So Keith,
What makes you think I will find this special note to me?


Looks like I'll need to make another trip to see you and Jackie so I can see the process.

Better count the ink and Corian before I get there!

And after too.

[Brent Vander Weil]

Keith... I have to say the pic looks fantastic... I can just imagine the real life view... What kind of a price tag does a dye-sub process setup cost? I am not familiar with it other than the little I have read... but it looks like a fantastic result....

[Max Green]

Keith, wow I sure do enjoy seeing your work. you really get the creative juices flowing. LOL


Would you mind sharing your process working with the corian? is it much different than working with the sublimated plastic coating?



also do you know how much the cost of corian I remember you memtioned that your source for corian is bartering, but can you give me an idea what kind of pricing it is?
thanks
max

[Carla Lange]

I agree, Dye-Sub produces a colorful and beautiful project. However the special ink is VERY expensive, and you have to have a special printer (I think only Epson brands work) transfer paper, and a heat press. I stopped doing Dye-Sub and went to the laser engraver because if you don't use your printer often the ink jets will dry up and plug. I have 2 Epson 1280's with plugged heads and for the life of me I can't get them cleaned. That's costly. I finally gave up. I know the laser will also be costly to repair, but the frustration with the printers was more then I could handle. Just my opnion....


Carla Lange

[Dave Jones]

There's a variation on sublimation printing now that uses low cost color laser printers (about $300) and their standard color toner. You still need transfer paper and a heat press.

[Brent Vander Weil]

Dave... I would be interested to learn more about the color laser dye-sub process... I have unlimited access to an HP4600 color laser printer and if all I have to to is buy the paper and heat press... I would definately give this a try....

Have any good sources for the color laser dye-sub process?

[Dave Jones]

I've never done it, but am seriously considering it since it sounds pretty straight forward.

These guys sell a transfer paper for use with color laser printers. They said they like the Okidata $300 printers, but it sounds like it will work with a range of printers. But there are different types of color toners and some of them do not work. You might want to call them and ask about the type of printer you have.

http://www.cactus-equipment.com/

They're not the only one with the transfer paper. Just one place that I heard about.

[Dave Fifield]

Keith - did you wipe my reply to this thread or am I cracking up? I swear I wrote a reply to it last night....

Dave F.

[Michael Wells]

Hi Guys,
I have been doing Dye Sub for quite some time now, using both an Epson C88 ($79) and an Epson R1800 for the larger stuff. About the only thing I hadn't tried is Corian, but believe me, this afternoon looks good for that!!! And I will tell you this... there are some impressive pieces that I've done using both the laser and sublimation together. I know, I know... photos please.... Okay, I will dig some out and put them online for you!

I also just got back from the Project Sublimation Workshop in San Diego and got the latest on the process. You can get to the site at http://www.projectsublimation.com/ which is run by John Barker from Sawgrass Inks, who makes both Sawgrass and Artanium ink. Great hands on program.

Also, if you are interested, my best suppliers list is getting pretty long, but you can get a complete setup, with ink, C88 printer, heat press, and a bunch of other goodies for under $1400.00 at Transfer-it.com . Tell Buck or Jesse that Big Mike sent you, and they will treat you right. The setup that they sell is enough to put you into business in sublimation!
Michael

[Keith Outten]

Brent,

I think Michael has covered the price for a starter system pretty well. I know that you can get a 16" by 20" heat press for about $895.00 and an Epson 1280 is in the neighborhood of $400.00. You will need Artanium ink cartridges, the best price I can find for the Epson is $200.00 and I found 13" wide by 100 feet long roll paper for $30.00 recently. Honestly the price is relatively cheap considering the value of the process in new work and I guarantee it will knock the socks off of your customers, friends and family.

Max,

The Corian dye-sub process is actually very simple. Print your photo or graphic then place the print on top of a Glasier white Corian blank and put it in your heat press. Bake at 320 degrees F for 20 minutes, when you remove your plaque you will need to place a flat board and some weights on top of it untill it cools down.

Since I am in the sign business Dupont has certified me to purchase their solid surface materials. I doubt that I can quote my wholesale price publicly, let's just say it is under $300.00 per sheet. Standard sheet size for Corian is 1/2" thick by 30" wide by 145" long. The price sounds high but just think how many plaques you can get from a single sheet You can normally get sink cutouts for free at your local counter top shops. My retail for dye-sub plaques is just over $1.00 per square inch but if you consider how much a nice frame and matt costs for a photo the dye-sub photos start looking very competitive. Then you need to consider that they won't fade and are suitable for exterior service as well.

Carla,

I had the same problem with ink drying at the heads at first because I purchased the bulk ink system and it was just too much trouble to keep clean and working. I dumped the bulk system and went back to the cartridges, so far they are working well.

Dave Jones,

I just read about the new color lasers that will dye-sub, this is much cheaper but I can't say anything about quality until I see one and can compare.

Dave Fifield,

Nope, I haven't seen your response to this thread and I haven't deleted any either. Post your response again I would appreciate any feedback or opinions you have on the subject.

Michael,

It seems you and I are 180 out, I have only used Corian and haven't had time to try any of the more traditional materials yet. For what it's wotth I have purchased from Alpha Supply and found their web sites to be very informative. They also have a site with info on the new dye-sub laser printers.

[Jeff Lehman]

Hi Guys,
you can get a complete setup, with ink, C88 printer, heat press, and a bunch of other goodies for under $1400.00 at Transfer-it.com.
Michael

Are you sure about the website address for them? www.transfer-it.com is a "domain for sale" type page.

Thanks

[Aaron Koehl]

I agree, Dye-Sub produces a colorful and beautiful project. However the special ink is VERY expensive, and you have to have a special printer (I think only Epson brands work) transfer paper, and a heat press. I stopped doing Dye-Sub and went to the laser engraver because if you don't use your printer often the ink jets will dry up and plug. I have 2 Epson 1280's with plugged heads and for the life of me I can't get them cleaned. That's costly. I finally gave up. I know the laser will also be costly to repair, but the frustration with the printers was more then I could handle. Just my opnion....


Carla Lange

I would say, that we didn't have the best of luck with the bulk ink system (drying up, clogging, etc). However, in regards to the current price of the inks and cartridges-- while it may be expensive for Tshirts and low-margin projects, it's not expensive at all when considering higher end products such as Corian plaques. It's actually quite profitable