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Thread: Need help gluing solid surface counter tops

  1. #1

    Need help gluing solid surface counter tops

    I need to glue together two pieces for a bathroom countertop/sink what adhesive should I use? I seem to remember seeing somewhere that there is a product that can be matched to the color, and when sanded and buffed makes the surface appear to be all one piece. An internet search found reference to something called dupont "seam sealer" but I cannot seem to find any local suppliers.

    Also, is it possible to mix dust from the material I cut with the adhesive for color match, or is there a better way of doing it?

    Thanks in advance.

    cheers, Paul

  2. #2
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    Here's a guy who sells small pieces of Corian, and adhesives to bond it ---

    http://stonewood.safeshopper.com/

  3. #3
    Thanks very much. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who has joined corian pieces. I seem to remember seeing temporary blocks attached to the two pieces along the seam to facilitate clamping. I had thought that hot glue would be suitable for this, am I wrong, and if so, what would be a better alternative?

    Thanks in advance.

    cheers, Paul

  4. #4
    paul, most installers use vacuum cups and linear rods when seaming but you can do the hotmelt trick as long as you can keep it from buckeling. the best bet for glue is from the manufacturer that way the color will match....02 tod
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Erickson
    Thanks very much. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who has joined corian pieces. I seem to remember seeing temporary blocks attached to the two pieces along the seam to facilitate clamping. I had thought that hot glue would be suitable for this, am I wrong, and if so, what would be a better alternative?

    Thanks in advance.

    cheers, Paul
    You're a woodworker, so you probably have pipe clamps. Heck, if you don't have pipe clamps, you should. So use pipe clamps.

  6. #6
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    The 2 time I have done it on a small scale I had the seam kit from the manufacturer of the solid surface material. Other than that it's just like any other glue up you will need a lot of clamps. There is a solid surface section on woodweb.com maybe you could get some additional info. Hope that helps.

    Quinn

  7. #7

    Thanks very much

    Thank you all for the very helpful replies.

    cheers, Paul

  8. #8
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    Get the special glue for Corian that most closely matches the background of your pieces. If you know the name of the color of your pieces, there is a chart that tells you which color glue to use. Hot melt glue wood blocks to the pieces of Corian and pull them together using regular clamps. Yes, hot melt glue is strong enough for this procedure, and it's easy to get it off when you are done. It takes about an hour for the glue to set up and, if you've done it well, you will not ever see the seam after it is sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded down. Use wet/dry paper or special disks used for Corian and go as fine as you can. Corian takes a lot of sanding, but the finish will be worth it. Good luck.

  9. #9
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    Joining Corian tops

    Paul

    Joiniing Corian tops requires the use of cement produced by corian and is basicly a liquid version of the Corian the top is made out of. It is produced by Dupont by die lot number to exactly match their solid surface product. As far as the actual field joining goes I'll relate the process I use. The joint needs to have a 1/16 gap to allow space for the glue. I tape the bottom side of the joint with masking tape to keep the glue from falling through. Hot melt wood strips on each side of the joint to allow you to level the two sides and draw them within a 1/16. Fill the joint with glue to the point where the glue creates a ridge along the joint. Let the glue harden and then sand the joint with a random orbit sander and micro paper available from 3M. Provide plenty of ventilation and some form of dust collection when you sand the joint. This stuff stinks. I've used this approach for the last 15 years and have had great sucess.
    Regards Randy

  10. #10

    removing the hot glued block/strips

    Any particular tips for removing the hot glued blocks/strips when you are done?

    Again, thanks very much.

    cheers, Paul

  11. #11
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    Removing hot melt blocks

    Paul

    I usually remove the blocks I hot melt to the top with a chisel and gentle tapping. I usually mount them about an inch on each side of the joint. Hot melt residue is remove carefully with a sharp chisel and a alcohol or laquer thinner. You're going to be sanding this area when you sand the joint. The sheen on your countertop is controlled by the grade of micro paper you sand with, course will give a mat finish and very fine will give a high gloss. I once used auto buffing compond and a 10" buffer on a Black Corian reception counter for Intel. Looked like a black Caddy when it was over.

    Regards Randy

  12. #12
    Excellent, thanks again.

    cheers, Paul

  13. #13
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    I thought Dupont only sold Corian products to certified installers. I was told the only way I could buy the product, adhesive was to become certified. Has that changed?

    My understanding was the certification process was a one or two day class on product handling, glue up and common repair scenarios.

    Has this all changed??? I know there are products similar to Dupont Corian that can be bought but if you want the Dupont product you had to be certified.
    Ed

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blough
    I thought Dupont only sold Corian products to certified installers. I was told the only way I could buy the product, adhesive was to become certified. Has that changed?

    My understanding was the certification process was a one or two day class on product handling, glue up and common repair scenarios.

    Has this all changed??? I know there are products similar to Dupont Corian that can be bought but if you want the Dupont product you had to be certified.
    Well, Dupont's rule used to be that you had to be a certified fabricator and installer to buy pieces big enough to make a counter from. See my post above for a guy selling smaller pieces.

    Recently, perhaps because of pressure from competitors, Dupont's been changing that rule. I read recently of a web-based company (in Arizona?)which has license from Dupont to support DIYers. You send them your counter layout. They fabricate the pieces and ship them to you. You install the pieces, doing seaming and all that. Google for them.

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