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Thread: Face Frames and Drum Sanders

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    165

    Face Frames and Drum Sanders

    Hello All,

    I have a method of work question for those of you who build your face frames first, and who also own a wide drum sander. I am thinking about buying a Woodmaster with the only debate being what size (26" or 38").

    Do you sand the boards before they are cut to assemble the frames, or do you assemble the frames and then sand them as one piece? I like the idea of building the frames and then sanding them, but how does the cross grain sanding work out for you? On the other hand, if you sand first then assemble, I would think there would be some ROS work where the glue squeezes out anyway?

    Just want your two cents.

    Thanks,

    Jay

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
    Posts
    7,201
    You have to remove the sanding texture with a ROS or scraper. It must be done whether it is with or cross grain.....it is just more work if it is cross grain. My drum sander has 80 and 120 grit ....I start with 80 in a ROS on the cross grain and 100 in a ROS on with the grain directions.
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  3. #3
    jay, i run all my faceframes through the widebelt after assembly, then fasten `em to the carcase then hit `em with the r/o...02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Fairfax, VA
    Posts
    76
    I assemble the FF's (faces "finished" with just a planer), then attached to the cases and then hit them with the ROS. I have a 24" drum sander but have never run assembled FF's through it. Most wouldn't fit anyhow, but the drums leave the surface a little to rough for all that sanding. Squeeze out never an issue with pocket screws

  5. #5
    Assemble after surfacing material. Then use a ROS.
    Its a pita getting cross sanded marks out.
    My 24" drum sander isn't wide enough for face frames anyway.


  6. #6
    Ive heard of plenty of folks using a double drum sander with a very fine grit on the out-put end. This, they assert, lets them run assembled frames through with little ROS work afterward. The benni they get is the sander takes innacuracies in the M/T work out of the assembly.

    A couple of these folks have been entry door makers. They run the assembled door through the sander to flatten the final assembly.

    Get the largest sander you can. I think a large sander is more useful than a large planer.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rohrabacher
    Get the largest sander you can. I think a large sander is more useful than a large planer.
    I couldn't agree more. I drum sand every door I make, but typically don't drum sand face frames.

    John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    odessa, missouri
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    Drum sanders arent very good for face frames. Generally your using a heavy grit like 80-100. On a overhead sander you'll use an 80 grit but because of the ease of belt changes it on takes a minute or so to move up a grit. Most shops finish at 150-180 before using an ROS to finalize.....Jack

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    165

    I Ordered Today

    Thank you all for your comments.

    I ordered a 38" Woodmaster today since it was only $500.00 more than the
    26".

    Thanks again for your help. Knowing how "veterans" do it makes me feel better.

    Jay

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