What makes for a better router table?

[Steve Hepditch]

Hey all,
I'm building a new router table, and I need some advice. Since I'm still in the planning stages, the world is my oyster and I can take my time to do things right. I've been doing my reading and notice that people are mostly using plunge routers in tables. Why? I look at the PC 7518 and wonder why people don't rave about it as a table router. It's got big horses, variable speed, good price, and it seems like it would be a lot easier to mount and manage in a table than the big plungers out there. A lot of people like their M12v's, their FT2000e's and (for the big spender) the Bosch 1619 - all plungers.

I realize that everyone has their own personal preferences as to what they want and need in a table router. Personally, I want to install a router *exclusively* in the table. I'll use it for all manner of routing operations, including panel raising - for which I want variable speed and high horses. I'm big on convenience in bit and height changing - preferably above the table - but I'm not sure I can afford a lift at the same time I get everything else. If I get a plunger, I'll likely be taking the springs out of it and would want something that could eventually be used with a lift.

So here's where I need your help: I'm almost decided on a table plan - it's a mix of Norm's table and the one featured in AW #99 (March '03). What I haven't decided on: the insert (prefer something with insert rings), the router (why plunge vs. fixed base?) and the lift. While I probably won't be able to get a lift right away, I'd like to be able to drop holiday hints for one in the near future...

If you had your way - what would you do different about the router table/router setup you currently have? What do you like best, what would you like to add, what would you definitely avoid? What works and what doesn't?

Looking forward to some lively discussion on this one...

Steve

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

My current router table is 1-1/2 MDF, Rosseau insert, dedicated Hitachi M12V, and a Bench Dog fence. It gets the job done.

At the mesquite outfit we've got the M12V on a JET Xacta lift...which is a vast improvement, far as I'm concerned. We lose a bit of height with the base on the router, but some of the lift thingies are designed for routers that come out of the housings so you don't lose height.

Yesterday I looked hard at a JoinTech lift, tabletop and fancy fence. If I ever do it again, I think I'm just gonna buy a package deal like this. The fence system was quite impressive, as I'm sure similar ones are.

KC

[Matt Woodworth]

I've built Norm's router table. You can see it here . I've been using it for a few months now and it's pretty close to ideal.

Some of the things that make it great are the dust collection, the size of the table top, the laminated surfaces, the adjustable fence opening, and the cabinets/drawers under the table. After six months of use they seem to be the perfect combination of bit and tool storage. Also, a tall fence is a must. I see a lot of router tables with 3" tall fences and I don't know how people live with them.

I use the Jessem Mast R Lift and it's pretty good. Once or twice it slipped as I raised the router and that bothered me. However, it's been working better lately. Time will tell if I have a problem or if it was just a temporary thing that went away. I see two high end options here. You could get the PRL with the router combo to save a few dollars or you could get the Jess Em router plate. It's the same size as the lift so you could just drop in the lift when you get it without cutting anything. Sadly, the sizes for router plates rarely match up so upgrading isn't usually that simple.

I use the 7518 and I think it's perfect. I never think about any of my PC or Delta tools. They just work like machines are supposed to. FWIW, Pat Warner agrees that the 7518 is the right router for a router table, click here.

Regarding what I'd do differently, the only thing that's not so great about the table is that the fence is asjusted by sliding it on the table. I wish there was a nicer way to measure how for the bit was from the fence when doing dado operations. Still, I'm not sure I'd make a change, it's just something that could be better.

Finally, if you decide to follow Norm's plans you might want to check out my site (the first link). At the top of the page I have a link to the tricks, and pitfalls I found along the way.

[Phil Phelps]

..Put a real, push button, switch on it.

[Bob Lasley]

Steve,

I think most people buy the Hitachi and Freud plunge routers because they are a good solid value, often $125-150 less than the 7518. Take a look at the big Milwaukee. It has all the features of the 7518 plus a built in lift. As for the insert, I made my own out of a piece of 1/2" acrylic, but I think I may trade it out for an aluminum Bench Dog insert.

Good luck,
Bob

[Jim Becker]

Well, I've often "raved" about the 7518 in my table. It's an excellent choice for the job. The quality of this machine became even more evident to me recently when the folks fabricating our new soapstone countertops used three of them (plus a 7539 plunger) to cut and shape the stone. I don't think the router will have any trouble handling big raised panel cutters after seeing that display!

But Bob brings up a good point. Many folks that shop for tools are very price conscious and the Hitachi and Freud do cost considerably less than the PC, even with the current sale price on it at Amazon/Toolcrib. That's fine. The tool choices we make should be in line with both our needs and our budgets.

That being said, the 7518 is an awesome router to use in the table. Combine that with specific support from each of the major lift vendors (JessEm, Woodpeckers & BenchDog) you really can get close to combining all of the benefits of a router table and a shaper. It's my choice for this application and I'm pleased with that decision.

[Lloyd Robins]

I used to use a Freud plunger on a Veritas router table. I liked the system a lot. I have since decided to save space and go to a Bench Dog table that is mounted on my TS. I have a Bench Dog lift and a Bosch 1617 EVS Router. I like the lift and the router better than the Freud router, as it is much easier to use. I am still not so sure about the actual table. I don't cut many raised panel, so I have no comparison there, but my back feels better adjusting the height from the top of the table.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Steve
I use a PC 7539 with a Rosseau plate
Take out the plunge springs
Use a set of brass height blocks to set tool height by popping out the router and place it on the table. After setting height - pop it back in.
Daniel

[Steve Hepditch]

good advice all...and thanks for it - keep it coming (I need all the help I can get).

I already have a Dewalt 621 that I have been switching in/out of the table I am currently using. I haven't had any problems with it, power-wise, but I haven't tried to raise panels in a single pass, either. I'm looking at the PC 8529 that people are seeing at HD on super-sale, and the price is tempting. I could take the springs out, and change bits above the table (I'm pretty sure that's true, correct me if I'm wrong). If I'm not mistaken, there's an add-on above-the-table height adjuster for that model, also. The only problem is that it's 2hp and I'm not sure I want to compromise on the power if I'm going to dedicate it to a table.

Ideally, I want the 7518 or the Milwaukee - but ideally I'd also have a 60x60 shop and be complaining that it was too full of tools . I'm leaking toward the Milwaukee (5625-20) simply because I can eliminate the need for a router lift, as it comes with its own above-the-table height adjuster. It's the most expensive router option, but cheaper than the PC plus a lift...

Also, does anyone have anything stongly positive or negative to say about the Rockler aluminum plate? This is going to be the last router table I build for (hopefully) a long time, so I don't want to be worrying about a sagging plate.

I guess I have to keep in mind that I'm just a weekend warrior and that I don't *necessarily* need production-shop priced goods. Still, how many times do we compromise on a tool, based on budget, then end up regretting it later. What's that old adage about all tools costing the same amount of money? You can buy a $100 router 3 times or a $300 router once?

Steve

[Richard Hash]

So here's where I need your help: I'm almost decided on a table plan - it's a mix of Norm's table and the one featured in AW #99 (March '03).
Steve

Take a look a Bill Hylton's design in "Router Magic", you might get some good ideas. Go for personal convenience. For me that meant doing whatever I could (within budget!) to reduce time spent fiddling the bit to the right height. Previously it was tighten-bit, test-run, gnash-teeth, loosen-bit, skin-knuckles, mumble-choice-words, repeat. Now a couple of cranks and I can get where I want to be pretty quickly.

[David Rose]

Steve, the 7518 needs a lift IMHO for easy adjusting above the table. Add up a good table, even shop made, a good lift and the router and you can buy some of the cheap shapers. Then, of course, you get into more expensive cutters, so... Another thing I personally don't like about the 7518 is its lowest speed is a couple of thou faster than most. For humongous bits I would like even less than I have. The only 7518 I tried had .008" runout at the collet. I didn't try a second one and understand that was not the norm.

I went with a Hilton tilt top table, Dewalt 625 (no plate, just Rousseau insert rings), and a Router Raizer. I have just "eye-balled" the Triton router, but it looks interesting. Bob Lasley can probably tell the pros and cons to one. I recently had to reinforce the table top to stop 2 years of accumulated sag. I would build that in some way next time.

The Dewalt will spin the big Whiteside panel raiser with no hesitation. It has some really massive bearings too. I don't know that it is the "best", but has stood up well for me for a little over a year and will hopefully go a lot longer. The 7518 was pretty much, and may still be for all I know, the industry standard for *the* heavy duty industrial router.

David

[Curt Harms]

I have an FT2000E with the RouterRaizer. For me, this setup works OK. I left the springs in per RouterRaizer but removed the dust boots. Bent the wrench per suggestion contained in the installation instructions and can usually change the bit from above the table. Router is mounted in a Rousseau plate-just lower the router, pop out the rings, raise the router and change the bit.One thing--a Fein vacuum will suck out the little metal plug used to cover the RouteRaizer drive Of course for the price of an FT2000E and RouterRaizer you're approaching the cost of the Milwaukee that comes with the integral lift mechanism. Choices, Choices.

Curt .