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Thread: Bandsaw Tuneup

  1. #1
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    Bandsaw Tuneup

    I have a new Delta 12" bandsaw, model bs220ls. I need some advice on how to tune it up. How close should the blade guides be to the blade? Should I get high preformance cool blocks? Will more or less tension give a better cut? I more tension better for thicker stock. I have a 1/4 inch blade on it now; should I get a 1/2" blade for stock over 1" ?

  2. #2
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    Hello Gary, I found this site on Delta BS tune up. Hope it helps. http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.as...eid=223&page=1

  3. #3
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    Band saw book

    Gary,

    I don't own a bandsaw yet, But I picked up a good book by Lonnie Bird, called "The bandsaw Book" It answers some of the questions you are asking.

    Have fun & be safe!

    Jonathan

  4. #4
    Gary, some of these question have multiple answers or opinions...these are mine:

    How close should the blade guides be to the blade?

    I've read several opinions on this, but the general consensus seems to be close (a few sheets of paper's worth), but not touching the blade. You want to make sure the guides are behind the gullets (the cut-out parts) of the blade.

    Should I get high performance cool blocks?

    I've not used them, so I'll let someone else answer this one.

    Will more or less tension give a better cut? I more tension better for thicker stock.

    This really depends on the blade. Some blades are intended to be run at lower tension than others. I'd suggest saving the existing blade as a spare, and purchasing a couple or three good blades. They're not expensive, and the difference between a Timberwolf or Woodslicer and a typical factory blade is like night and day. Check Highland Hardware or Suffolk Machinery for good blades. Each blade manufacturer has their own recommendation for how much tension to use for that blade. You'll get lots of opinions on the right way to set the tension, but the manufacturers' recommendations should be a good place to start.

    I have a 1/4 inch blade on it now; should I get a 1/2" blade for stock over 1"?

    As I understand things, the width of the blade isn't really tied to the thickness of material you're cutting. It depends more on what the blade was designed to do. Most narrow blades (in the 1/4" range) are better suited for cutting curves, and most wide blades are better for straight cuts, regardless of the material thickness. Blades with more teeth will generally leave a smoother cut, but will be slower or less aggressive than blades with fewer teeth. For example, I have a 1/2 Woodslicer blade that can cut 11" material smoothly, but it's relatively slow. I also have a 3/4" blade with coarser teeth, and it'll cut that 11" material faster, but leave a rougher cut. There are several other variables like the pitch of the teeth and width of the kerf that even further cloud the decision-making process. I'd suggest talking to the folks at either of the companies I mentioned above, telling them what kind of cutting you want to do, and letting them guide you to the right blade.

    Hope this helps -

    - Vaughn

  5. #5
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    Vaughn is on target. I use the graphite impregnated cool blocks on my 12" and they seem to help (or I'm just rationalizing the $15). I run my Timberwolf blades at a much lower tension than my Vermonts using their setup recommendations. Once again to second Vaughn; quality blades aren't that much more and MAN what a difference. In my case it was literally like having a new saw.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
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    Gary,

    Another good resourse is: "Mastering You Bandsaw" video by Mark Duginske. May be at your library. If it is not at your library it is available on line.
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 06-18-2006 at 12:41 PM.

  7. #7
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    Can the wood/metal combination blades be used with good sucess?
    I'm thinking of adding the 6" riser to my 14" delta and would like to do both wood and metal on it.
    Thinking of using the saw to cut veneers if that makes a difference.

    Al

  8. #8
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    Gary, everything you need to know is in the Iturra Design catalog. Actually, it is an education on bandsaws, and specifically the Delta brand. Ittura does not have a website, but they are normally found in the classified ads of most WW magazines. Every bandsaw owner should have a copy of the Iturra catalog for reference.

    Give them at call at 1-888-722-7078. They are good people and can answer urgent questions over the phone.
    Best Regards, Ken

  9. #9
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    I need some advice on how to tune it up.
    Get Mark Duginske's Band Saw Handbook and the video too. I just got a new ummm... ahem... challenging bandsaw (my first) to tune up, so I'm just starting to learn the procedures.

    How close should the blade guides be to the blade?
    Using paper money, Duginske recommends 1 paper thickness for the guides, and 4 (money folded twice) or 1/64" for the thrust bearings. Make sure the thrust bearings are aligned with each other.

    Should I get high preformance cool blocks?
    Duginske recommends these. Get em unless you've got bearings.

    Will more or less tension give a better cut?
    Proper tension will give the best cut. My tension gauge seems just about right for the 1/4" blade that came with the saw. Timberwolf blades need less tension--follow their procedure for their blades.

    I have a 1/4 inch blade on it now; should I get a 1/2" blade for stock over 1" ?
    Size your blade according to the radius of the cut. Narrow blades can cut a smaller radius, but wider blades can cut a larger radius more smoothly than a smaller blade. For thicker stock, you might want a blade with less tpi (teeth per inch). The standard resaw blade for 14" and under saws is a 1/2" 3 tpi. Wider blades are good for straight cuts like ripping or joinery.

    This past weekend, I tuned my saw and resawed 5" wide cherry boards with my stock 1/2" 7 tpi blade. I planed off 1/32" to remove the saw marks.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Willits
    Can the wood/metal combination blades be used with good sucess?
    I'm thinking of adding the 6" riser to my 14" delta and would like to do both wood and metal on it.
    Thinking of using the saw to cut veneers if that makes a difference.

    Al
    The blade speed for cutting metal is a few hundred feet per minute; my big wood bandsaw runs 5000 feet per minute, my 14 inch bandsaw runs 3200 fpm. I might try cutting some brass or aluminum, but I sure wouldn't expect success cutting steel.

    For years I tried to cut veneers on my 14 inch bandsaw with riser block, and had a low success rate... sometimes I would get a good cut, but the next cut was a waste of wood. So I finally bought a 24 inch bandsaw with a 1 inch carbide blade. I just cut 8 veneer drawer fronts out of one nicely figured 4/4 board, and it was smooth enough that I didn't even sand the back before gluing the veneer down... just a little with a ROS on the front after glue up. Half way through (after 3 or 4 cuts) I did sand the board to get rid of the operator-induced waves. I have successfully cut even thinner veneers on the new saw, but I didn't want to risk the highly figured piece of walnut that I used for the drawer fronts. Bottom line, don't expect an inexpensive 14 inch saw to do the same job as a 1000 pound 24 inch saw with a 5 hp motor. (Also, carbide blades shouldn't be used on saws smaller than 18 inches, except Lenox has one that can go down to 16 inch saws).

    Please don't shoot the messenger.

  11. #11
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    """""""""
    For years I tried to cut veneers on my 14 inch bandsaw with riser block, and had a low success rate... sometimes I would get a good cut, but the next cut was a waste of wood. So I finally bought a 24 inch bandsaw with a 1 inch carbide blade. I just cut 8 veneer drawer fronts out of one nicely figured 4/4 board, and it was smooth enough that I didn't even sand the back before gluing the veneer down... just a little with a ROS on the front after glue up. Half way through (after 3 or 4 cuts) I did sand the board to get rid of the operator-induced waves. I have successfully cut even thinner veneers on the new saw, but I didn't want to risk the highly figured piece of walnut that I used for the drawer fronts. Bottom line, don't expect an inexpensive 14 inch saw to do the same job as a 1000 pound 24 inch saw with a 5 hp motor. (Also, carbide blades shouldn't be used on saws smaller than 18 inches, except Lenox has one that can go down to 16 inch saws).
    """"""""""""""""

    I'd be interested in what was the saw doing that the cut didn't work?
    Guy at work has the same Delta 14" saw I do, and cuts 1/8" veneer with no problem, he does say about 8" wide boards are max though.

    Kinda goes with out saying a 1000 pound 24 inch saw is gonna be better than a 14", but I rather doubt I'll need one for what I need.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Willits
    I'd be interested in what was the saw doing that the cut didn't work?
    Guy at work has the same Delta 14" saw I do, and cuts 1/8" veneer with no problem, he does say about 8" wide boards are max though.

    Kinda goes with out saying a 1000 pound 24 inch saw is gonna be better than a 14", but I rather doubt I'll need one for what I need.
    My small Delta didn't do anything well. My Jet 14 inch and my Grizzly 14 inch both worked well most of the time, but I never did figure out why I only had an 80% success rate even doing simple resawing such as drawer sides. I don't want to knock either of those machines, since giving the name will give a very good machine a black eye.

    For example, I was cutting drawer sides (looking for 3/8 to 1/2 inch final thickness) from 6 inch or so maple, using a new Timberwolf blade. 4 drawers were perfect. 5th drawer the blade wandered off like a drunken sailor, spoiling the wood. I sent the blade back to Suffolk, asked them to help me figure out what was going wrong - they replaced it but said they could find nothing wrong with the blade.

    Note that the new bandsaw cuts so smooth that only minimal sanding is required... a far cry from the best cuts I got on the lighter saws. But I am keeping my 14 inch saw for curved cuts. Did the 14 inch resaw and cut veneers - yes, but with room for improvement. Enough room for improvement that I gave up and got a new saw.

    I suggest that you buy a blade and try your friend's bandsaw before investing a lot. (When you get a riser block, you have to replace all your blades... the riser block is not something you pop in and out.) If you are happy with the results, you have your first blade. If you are not happy, your friend gets a free blade for saving you hundreds of dollars.

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