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Thread: Cutting Cabriolet Legs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Douglasville, GA
    Posts
    776

    Cutting Cabriolet Legs

    Hi Creekers: The new bandsaw (Griz 513X) seems to know what it is doing and now the issue is to get the operator to know what he is doing!

    I'm practicing cutting cabriolet legs using some glued up 2X4's as practice blanks. I'm using the stock 1/2" blade as the new Timberwolf's in thinner widths have not arrived. This limits the turning radii and requires some release cuts. (Timberwolf has a buy 3 get one free special this week and Highland Hardward has free shipping on WoodSlicer).

    Starting with the pattern from the FWW article (available on the subscription side of their web site) CLPC 003 small.jpg I enlarged the pattern 400% on a copier and glued it to a piece of hardboard.

    I also consulted some books on the subject CLPC 007 small.jpg and learned that the layout seems to vary by author. Lonnie Bird recommends toes and knees pointing toward each other on adjacent faces, Mark Duginski says, toes and knees pointing away.

    The cutting is a learning experience; getting the feed rate, turning radius, hand positions and cutting next to the line correct has not just happened for me. But that's why I'm using 2X4's not mahogany.

    Eventually I had three blanks cut, the first has the knee and foot at opposite angles, # 2 shows promise and 3 regressed a little the toe and knee got trimmed too close. CLPC 006 SMALL.jpg

    As you can see in the background I've got more blanks to practice on today.

    Which brings me to the question: How do you all cut your Cab Legs or curves in general? Any suggestions, pointers, tips, shortcuts, helpful hints?

    (Incidentially, I love a bandsaw. I'm sorry I didn't do this sooner. Much higher safety factor to me compared to a table saw, quieter, smoother cuts and smaller footprint. If you are considering a bandsaw or a tablesaw I would sure give careful consideration to a bandsaw as a first purchase.)

    I look forward to the input and ideas about cutting cab legs.

    Tom, in Houston, enjoying learning a new skill
    Chapel Hills Turning Studio
    Douglasville, GA

    Hoosier by birth, Georgian by choice!

    Have blanks, will trade.

  2. #2
    tom, i do knees-n-toes. i prefer a 1/4" 4 tooth blade for 90% of the scroll work i do and i also like to have a table big enough to support the work. on a small saw like you`re using take a 4x4x3/4 piece of mdf place one edge against the column and cut deap enough where the front edge lines up with your table. shut off the saw, brace up the three hanging corners, screw a scrap across the cutline and then try cutting your blanks.
    one other thing that i do is leave support bridges when i make my first cut so the blank remains square to the table during the second cut.
    keep pluggin` it aint rocket science....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Douglasville, GA
    Posts
    776
    Thanks, Tod, you are absolutely right it is not rocket science, but it is new to me so it might as well be. I appreicate you taking time to respond.

    I'm unclear about the ''screw a scrap across the cutline" my mental picture has the scrap interferring with cutting the curves. Would you make another pass at describing your method?

    I also cut a bridge on the first two. Tired number three without a bridge. Not a good idea. Sam Maloof may be able to do that but not me!

    Thanks again for taking time from you day to share you knowledge.

    All the best, Tom
    Chapel Hills Turning Studio
    Douglasville, GA

    Hoosier by birth, Georgian by choice!

    Have blanks, will trade.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hamilton
    I also cut a bridge on the first two. Tired number three without a bridge. Not a good idea. Sam Maloof may be able to do that but not me!
    Sam has been doing it a lot longer then you and has a much much bigger Band saw then you..

  5. #5
    tom, underneath the cutline so the mdf doesn`t flex and lift one side of the cut higher and cause a bump in your table. the idea is to have a large,smooth auxillary table that takes less time to build than it does for me to type ..02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Douglasville, GA
    Posts
    776
    Ahhh! Thanks.
    Chapel Hills Turning Studio
    Douglasville, GA

    Hoosier by birth, Georgian by choice!

    Have blanks, will trade.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hamilton
    Ahhh! Thanks.
    you`re welcome
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
    Posts
    2,266
    Tom,
    I love cabriole legs. I mark mine with the pattern to the corner post side. I cut a bridge, and use tape on the fall off for the second cut. I think this is pretty standard stuff, but the milage of others may vary.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Douglasville, GA
    Posts
    776
    Thanks, Alan, the layout of the pattern is key and actually was not as clear to me on the first couple of attempts. My pre-dinner cut out is lots better than those of yesterday.

    Thanks for the comments. Tom
    Chapel Hills Turning Studio
    Douglasville, GA

    Hoosier by birth, Georgian by choice!

    Have blanks, will trade.

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