flush trim jig

[Don Morris]

Doing long 3/4" boards with edge banding. The edge banding is proud of the boards. I can run the long side over my router table to do the long sides but can't stand the 5'+ boards upright to do the short 12" ends. I know I've seen a flush trim jig in a magazine once to do such jobs. Can anyone point me in the right direction or suggest another way to flush trim the short ends without having to stand them upright on my router table. I do have a separate Porter Cable static and plunge router combo in addition to the table mounted. Thanks!

[tod evans]

don, clamp the piece in your vise, grab a router with a flushcut bit and freehand it. it`s really not that dificult just pay attention at the ends...02 tod

[pat warner]

One variation, see link.

[Steve Clardy]

One variation, see link.

Yep. The ones I got from you Pat work great

[Jamie Buxton]

The offset base which Pat linked to does fine if you're trimming just one edge. However, if you've edge-banded more than one edge -- say, the front plus the ends of a shelf -- it doesn't work. As built, the base can't get to the corners. I use a variant of that design, but the base is recessed for 270 degrees instead of 180 degrees. That will allow you to get to the corners. Dunno if there are commercial versions, but it is easy to make a shop-built one.

On mine, the base extends farther than on Pat's, and there's a weight on it -- some lead fishing sinkers. The weight helps ensure that you don't rock the router and gouge the edgebanding.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I built the one in the book, "Router Magic" by Bill Hylton and it works great. Here it is at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076...lance&n=283155

The design is very similar to Pat Warner's.

[Hoa Dinh]

I built the one in the book, "Router Magic" by Bill Hylton and it works great.

Like this?

[John Stevens]

Don, are you using a solid wood edging, like 1/8" thick or thicker? Or are you using the commercial "iron on" edge banding that's about 1/16" or thinner?

If you're using the thin stuff, try a sharp file or rasp. I use a Nicholson file or a Nicholson #50 rasp, and either one works quickly and easily. I have very little skill at using hand tools, yet I find I almost never leave marks with with the file or rasp, and any marks are shallow enough that they can either be filed out or sanded out with 120-grit paper. I use iron-on edge banding on plywood for carcase sides and I've never come close to wearing through the top layer of veneer on the ply. It's quick, too--more than one inch per second, with no set-up time other than clamping the workpiece to the bench.

By the way, I'm far from being a neander, so my opinion and recommendation is not influenced by "ideology" or romantic ideas about "craftsmanship." Hope this helps.

[JayStPeter]

I have one like Hoa, only much more hastily made out of scraps. I keep my old cheapo Craftsman router dedicated to it so I don't have to set the bit height. Works like a champ.

Jay

[Don Morris]

So I have the harder of the jobs ahead of me. Looks like I have to make up one of those jigs you guys showed me, probably the later. Thanks.