Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Best 12 Inch Miter Saw blade?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Villa Park. CA
    Posts
    13,051

    Best 12 Inch Miter Saw blade?

    I recently bought the Bosch 4212L non-slider 12 inch miter saw. Now I need recommendations as to what's the best blade to put in it. The best two I've found so far are the Freud LU85R012 (96 teeth) and the Forrest CM12806115 Chopmaster (80 teeth). The Freud is a bit more expensive but not enough to really make a difference.

    Which would you purchase? Or is there another blade that you'd prefer? Any help, advice, or opinions will be appreciated.

    Mike

    BTW, I don't have much time on it yet, but I am pleased with the Bosch 4212 so far.

  2. #2
    Mike,

    I have the Chopmaster, it's a good blade and leaves a clean, smooth cut. I use it for all decent lumber I cut. I use another blade when I cut wet 2x4 lumber, since the pitch usually gets all over it. I use the stock DeWALT blade that came on my saw. I have a 12" DeWALT slider.

    Even though the Chopmaster is a fine blade, I think it's overpriced. If $$$s are not an issue, just get it and be done with it, IMO.

    I've been using Leitz blades which I'm pleased with at a fraction of the price. Leitz Tooling, one of the Leitz distributers had some 12" 80 ATB negative hook blades recentely:

    35-654 12" z80 ATB -Negative Hook- 1" bore $37

    This was a Delta branded Leitz blade, being closed out by Delta. If you're interested, send me an email and I'll give you the contact info, I don't think Mike Jackson posts to SMC, he's the owner of Leitz Tooling. I recently bought some 14" z24 rip blades, which I'm going to use on my 16" table saw. They were only $12, amazing, good quality blades. Looks the same as the Leitz Pro 10" z24 I use on my old Ridgid 3612 ($29, regular retail for Leitz Tooling), and what a deal for a 14" blade. I also got a 16" 80 ATB blade, but had to pay $45 for it. But go look up the price of Forrest 16" blades... I find the margins smaller on larger blades by Forrest though, so their 16" prices are not bad...just not as good as Mike give me.

    I also have a 10" WWII for my old Ridgid, it cuts well also, just that it's not a rip blade specific (although works fine) and I find the z24 works well for that as I mostly rip on my table saw. So, I do believe Forrest makes excellent blades, just priced at a point that exceeds some hobbyist like myself. Either way, it's only a blade...and it's not gonna break the bank to spend even $200 on one for most folks.

    However, if you want the top of line for miter saws, and have cash to burn, I highly reccomend the Forrest Chopmaster. Next time I need a blade for my miter saw, I'll see what Leitz Tooling is offering and try to get something Leitz, but the Chopmaster is a fine blade that I'm very happy with and still using. Mine is still sharp after cutting up close to 1200bf of lumber, but it was mostly 1"x6" knotty pine which is really soft.

    You don't need to buy blades that often, under normal conditions, so even spending $125 on a blade that will last several years for most hobbyist is not that big of a deal. OTOH, I find Leitz blades are quite a good deal for a hobbyist, and from that perspective I'm a convert as there's no reason for me to spend more than I need to, I'd rather invest in nice wood, and the Leitz blades give me a nice cut also.
    --
    Life is about what your doing today, not what you did yesterday! Seize the day before it sneaks up and seizes you!

    Alan - http://www.traditionaltoolworks.com:8080/roller/aland/

  3. #3
    mike, i like to run nonferrous metal blades on my chopsaw. try one you`ll be impressed....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    I've got a 96 tooth Freud blade in my non-slider 12" miter saw and am happy with it. I also have a Dewalt blade which dulled quickly, but most likely that was my fault since I used it to cut laminate flooring.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,135
    Quote Originally Posted by tod evans
    mike, i like to run nonferrous metal blades on my chopsaw. try one you`ll be impressed....02 tod
    Please explain, this is a new one to me, nonferrous means no steel or iron. What are they made of?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco
    Please explain, this is a new one to me, nonferrous means no steel or iron. What are they made of?
    frank, most blade manufacturers make blades for cutting nonferrous metals. these blades are generally of a negitive rake design with the carbide ground in a tripple chip configuration. these blades have proven to give glass smooth cuts far longer than the standard atbr positive hook design most folks use. but the drawback is that the saw works slightly harder during the cut.. i generally get about year between sharpenings in light industrial use....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    1,050
    I have a Dewalt Slider (DW705). I've have the Forrest Chopmaster on it now. Which after using several other blades. I can say that this is by far the best blade I've had. Here's a link to a great deal on it.http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/index.html

  8. #8
    For those that want to see a nice chart showing different tooth geometries, I have one from Tenryu on my website.

    http://www.holbren.com/catalogs/toothgeometry.pdf

    I've never used a non-ferous metal blade but can understand why they would work well. Not only the negative rake but the TCG. The TCG is the equivalent of using a straight bit to clean out the waste in a dovetail and then using the dovetail bit to do the finishing cut. The center kerf cut teeth remove the mass of material and raker comes in and cleans it up.

    My understanding though was that something like an ATAFR is the best for miters because of the shearing action of the ATAF tooth then the raker to come in and clean it out.

    Forest knows what they are doing so I'm sure you can't go wrong with their blade. I use a Ridge Carbide on my 10" saw only because I sell them and it works well.
    Last edited by Ken Salisbury; 07-09-2006 at 9:16 AM. Reason: Edited signature to removed link to web site - - TOS violation

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Villa Park. CA
    Posts
    13,051

    Thank you for your advice

    Thanks for your comments and advice. One more question - which do your prefer in a 12 inch miter saw - a thin kerf or a full width blade?

    The thin kerf would cut faster but might deflect, while the full width will cut slower, require more power, but won't deflect as easily, especially when trimming a tiny bit off the end.

    Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by P. Michael Henderson
    Thanks for your comments and advice. One more question - which do your prefer in a 12 inch miter saw - a thin kerf or a full width blade?

    The thin kerf would cut faster but might deflect, while the full width will cut slower, require more power, but won't deflect as easily, especially when trimming a tiny bit off the end.

    Mike
    I've had great results from high quality 10" TK's in <3hp table saws, but there should be less need and less noticeable benefit for crosscutting with a CMS, therefore I'd lean towards full kerf....especially with a 12" blade.
    Last edited by scott spencer; 07-08-2006 at 5:45 PM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  11. #11
    Hello,

    Thin kerf works fine if you only cut straight down 90 deg to the table.

    Once you start leaning the saw over however, I am not enthusiastic

    about the results. Full kerf is blade of choice.

    Per
    "all men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night....wake in the day to find that it was vanity; but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible."
    T.E. Lawrence

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    So. California
    Posts
    67
    If you decide on the Chopmaster, Amazon has the best deal I have seen on the 12". $101, free shipping, and if you need other stuff you get a $25 gift cert. for future purchases.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

    Terry

  13. I have had a great experience with the 12" Chopmaster. It had a slightly wider kerf than the blade that came with my saw. The cuts have been very smooth and I would not hesitate to buy one again.

    The price of $101 is a great price; I think I paid around $112.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Regarding kerf...I used to use a "thin kerf" blade and found it really wandered too much for my taste. As to the blade, I bought a Forrest ChopMaster about a year a go to replace a different manufacturer's blade and it was "wows-ville".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    490
    I have a DeWalt DW705 CMS, and love my 12" Forrest Chopmaster. But I get pretty good results with a 12" Dewalt 80 tooth, too.
    Sam/Atlanta

Similar Threads

  1. Why do you prefer the "left of the blade" position for a table saw miter gauge
    By Frank Pellow in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 03-07-2006, 7:58 PM
  2. Problem with Dado Blade
    By Mike Zozakiewicz in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-09-2006, 10:37 PM
  3. Noticed a missing tooth on chopmaster blade today. Sigh.
    By Matt Allan in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-23-2004, 6:04 PM
  4. dadoe blade or dadoe with the router
    By aurelio alarcon in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 11-15-2003, 12:59 AM
  5. Miters
    By Julie Wright in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-03-2003, 1:47 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •