Can anyone explain to me just how this works? It obviously can not connect to the blade itself, so what is it measuring and how does it measure it?
Considering buying one but ...
Can anyone explain to me just how this works? It obviously can not connect to the blade itself, so what is it measuring and how does it measure it?
Considering buying one but ...
I thought they connected to the blade and read the tension as you tightened the blade.
The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.
The penalty for inaccuracy is more work
I don't know the Carter gauge in particular, but I thought that BS tension gauges in general lightly "clamp" or "grip" the blade with a two-arm-squared -off U type gizmo that then measures the amount of "stretch" or travel in the blade (over the distance between the two arms) as it is tensioned. As I recall, X amount of travel (in thousandths) equals to X amount of tension in punds of pull.
David
Paul, the info on the Carter website says that the gauge does not attach to the blade. I suspect that they use their replacement tension spring and measure how the spring moves as the tension adjuster is turned. Take a close look at the picture of it installed on a band-saw.
Best Regards, Ken
looks like a load cell to me... I would say you divide the force on the cell by 2 in order to get the tension in the blade. I would assume that there must be a way to enter the blade width and thickness into the electronic Gage. that information coupled with the load cell info should give you the venerable PSI that some folks really want to know.
Lou
Wow! I do not know how it works but for two hundred bucks I think that I will just continue to tighten untill the blade doesn't flutter anymore.
Interesting discussion. I know there are BS tension gauges that measure tension on the blade but the Carter doesn't. It does look like it might connect to the spring (which would have to be their replacement spring), but I wonder how accurate this would be over time?
The reason I was interested in this (the more expensive $300 gauge, which cuts power if the blade breaks) is because I had a blade break in use not long ago. No injury but scared me a LOT!
That ever happen to anyone???
While on the subject, the "flutter" test is what Timberwolf recommends. To do this correctly I've loosened all 4 cool blocks and backed off both backing wheels (with my "Sometimers Disease" I can't think of the correct term just now!), but on my Ridgid BS I really don't see a "flutter" like they describe. Maybe that's a product of Ridgid construction. Just don't know. Am I doing it right?
Another blade snap in use and I might just be done with bandsaws!
Last edited by Paul Prescott; 07-06-2006 at 11:01 PM.
To all you engineer types out there.....isn't there a whole load of variables by measuring the tension there? Isn't a measurement actually on each individual blade itself much more accurate?
Mark Rios
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I disagree... this is a simple pulley system and the tension on the blade will be ~1/2 of the force exerted by the upper wheel ( neglecting friction ). Having said that, I do personally think the flutter method of tensioning the blade the simplest for wood working applications.Originally Posted by Norman Hitt
Lou
the flutter method work well with big saws where there is a long straight section between the upper and lower wheels. It works very well on my 36" bandsaw ( it takes a ~ 20 foot blade ), but I would think that on the smaller saws it would be much more difficult to really see the blade flutteringOriginally Posted by Paul Prescott
lou
Looking at the Carter site and how the unit is installed, I'd say that they are using a small load cell and just measuring the pressure that the blade adjustment spring is exerting on the stationary part of the saw frame. Since this would be the tension on both sides of the blade, This would give a very acurate read out of the tension on the blale. It certainly would give you a very reproduceable read out as blades were changed--assuming that the guides for the upper wheel adjustment were well lubricated and did not bind.
In my proir life, I have used these load cells under 4 legs of process tanks to measure the weight of the contents - 20,000+ lbs - with accurcy as close as 1 pound.
Chet Parks
i don`t get all the hoopla over tensioning a blade? after just a short time using a bandsaw most folks will find a method that works for them, lou flutters, i pluck, some guys check deflection between the guides by finger pressure. i think these gizmos are for the crowd who worries more about their tables being flat to within.00001 than woodworking? in the end bandsaw blades are all disposable(even the trimaster) and if you`re first learning buy 10-15$ blades and fiddle with different methods untill you`re comfortable with your saw. you`ll be a better woodworker for your efforts and will have the better part of the two bills in question still in your pocket......02 tod
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I don't know the first thing about band saws, in fact I just bought a used one last night. However, I am one of those obsessive compulsive folks that Tod spoke of that worries about tolerances; hey I'm a scientist by trade. On the other had, band saws have been around for a while and I don't think they had electronic tensioning gauges when they were first resawing with them
However, due to my compulsive nature couple with Yankee tendencies towards "thriftiness", I found a neat article in Fine Wood Working titled "Shop made Tension Gauge" Volume 147, pages 80-83. I don't know how well it is going to work, but since I don't have anyone to demonstrate fluttering or the correct tone of the pluck I'm going to give it a shot. Perhaps a creeker has tied it and could give their opinion?
Last edited by Nick Clayton; 07-07-2006 at 10:21 AM.
On my 36", I pluck for E, then tune out any flutter and then listen for harmonic vibration while cutting and adjust accordingly