Sharpening Jig??

[Gary Swart]

I have to confess, I can't sharpen anything! I've screwed up chainsaw chains, chisels, planes, and knives trying to get an edge. I have seen ads for a jig that might be the answer for a dull minded guy like me. It's called the M.Power PSS. It's only $75, but while that would be cheap enough if it works like advertised, but I'd kinda like some user input before I just pull out the green. Any comments appreciated.

[Ben Rafael]

FWW did a review a several sharpenng jigs within the last year. This one did not rate highly, I do not remember why. The veritas jig rated well, it runs about $50. I have the veritas jig and am happy with it. You can use it with sandpaper or stones.
I would try to dig up the article if I were you. It described the strengths and weaknesses of the various jigs well, you could determine which one suits you best.

[Mike Williams]

FWW did a review a several sharpenng jigs within the last year.

Gary - it was FWW # 179.

[Mark Rios]

Gary, I used to use a Stanley jig and recently got the Veritas MKII. WORLDS AND LOADS of difference. Very repeatable and consistant; a very nice tool. Well worth the money IMAO.

[Ben Rafael]

Gary, Thinking back I am not sure if that jig was in that article, but I am certain that FWW did review it and the review did have some criticisms, I'll see if I can find it in my stack.

[Norman Hitt]

.....I have one. In one of my weaker moments, I bought one. It was on a pretty good sale, and I was thinking it would be real handy for touching up my chisels between sharpenings, AND compact enough to carry along to use when I drive the 300 + miles to my daughters and need to do some work there and I don't have my glass plate and sandpapers. My experience is that it is too difficult to keep it perfectly aligned as you move the chisel back & forth, and there is just enough slop in it that it's hard to keep a chisel end square. Will it sharpen or touch up a rough work chisel or plane, yes,......Will I use it on my good Bench Chisels or Planes, NO.

Would I buy it again, NO!!! (and I SURE WOULDN't pay $75 for it), I wish I hadn't paid more than $15 for mine, then I wouldn't feel so much like an idiot.

JMHO, but YMMV.

Get the Lee Valley sharpening jig. I have the old one, and the new one should be even better. Use it with sandpaper (as in the scary sharp method), because it is not only MUCH better, but also MUCH FASTER.

[Brian Hale]

Get the LV and don't look back. It's Bonzer Dude!

Brian

[Joe Unni]

LV. You won't be disappointed.

-joe

[tod evans]

gary, once again i`ll go against the grain, just keep trying freehand, it`ll all of a sudden click, just like riding a bicycle, and you`ll never forget. if ya learn with training wheels it`s just harder to take off without `em..02 tod

[Terry Flowers]

Norman, I don't have one, but from the photo at Woodcraft and their website, it looks like you hold the chisel or plane blade still and move the hone in a channel, not by moving the chisel. I can't comment on how it works otherwise.

Terry

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I can't sharpen anything!

PSHAW!! Of course you can. A little book learning and a little patience and you'll be dab hand in no time.

Seriously unless you were born quadrapalegic and blind you can sharpen nearly anything by hand. There is no such thing as congentital inability to sharpen.

All edges (save a very few) are better if the little sharpened (gound off) bit is as flat as you can get it.
That means you need to hold a nice even steady angle while drawing the edge across the stone.

Too much pressure will cause your hand to rock making for a poor edge.

Drag the blade one way a few times then flip and repeat.

I like to scrub the hell out of a knife for a bit on the coarse side of a norton oil stone before flipping it to take a finish edge on the fine side.
I use two angles in any edge ( 4 if you count both sides).

I lay the blade over real far to get a rough edge. Then when I am goung to finish it I lkay the blade over at a sharper angle and stroke very, very lightly once maybe twice and presto chango a deadly sharp blade everytime.

The blades (irons for you sharp shooters) in a plane require a tad more sophistication. So I ignore the oil stones entirely and grab my track sander. I simply lay the blade on the wheel end while the belt runs under it with the edge facing the direction of the belt.
I use a very fine grit paper for this and apply almost zero pressure and almost before I can blink it's all done.
It only requires a fairly steady hand.