Compressed air line question

[David Rose]

Due to my layout, it will be necessary to park a big noisy compressor on an enclosed porch. The porch has a sloped roof where the pipe needs to run. The length of pipe from the compressor to the shop wall is about 10' along that slope. It will slope toward the compressor at about a 10 degree angle for that distance. Every place but this starting run, I can slope the line as it should be (away from the compressor and toward drops with drains). The porch is not tall enough on the lower side to run the pipe with any downward pitch.

The plan for now is to run a short flex line to a vertical copper line which will "L" then run along the sloping roof.

My concern is for the water that may condense in that distance. I can put a drop/drain immediately past the shop inside wall, but will that be enough and is there any point in doing that at the "top" of a run? Will the turbulent water that the air is fighting in that distance cause me problems? When the compressor is not running, the water will come back to the compressor. But while running, I imagine there will be a battle between the water and the air.

I just don't see another way to do this. Btw, there will be a dessicant and toilet paper filter down the line along with some drops with drains.

David

[David Rose]

The compressor will be at the right end. The space to the left next to the wall is "not available".

airline4shop1.bmp

[Mike Cutler]

David.

You will eventually get some condensation in the line. A dessicant cartridge dryer, with a built in drain on the discharge of the compressor should minimize the problem, and allow you to blow out any moisture that accumulates.

[tod evans]

david,
why not make a couple of floor to ceiling loops in your lines with drains at the bottom before you take the air into the shop? check out the pics of my set up here;
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32825

i think it`s smart to remove as much moisture as possible before the air enters your plumbing....02 tod

[Al Killian]

Did I read thaat you where going to use copper for airline? Copper will not hold up iunder too much pressure.You should check and see what the burst rate is for it. For the water a good air dry at the tank followed by a 6" drop will collect most of the dirt and moister. Where ever you put regulator put a second dryer this will cacth any remaining oil,moister and dirt in the line. Just make sure you empty the tank every nirght.

[Charlie Hans]

Type "L" copper pipe will work just fine for air lines and the wall thickness is such that there will be no danger of bursting. Many people are using it in their shops with success
Charlie

[Allen Bookout]

Actually I think that the upslope is good and with loops, as tod suggested, it is even better. Traps the condensation before it gets to your drops. I have at least fourty feet of upslope before I get to the first drop. I never seem to get any condensation in my water seperators at the bottom of the drops.

I know that some recommendations show downslope all of the way but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

[David Rose]

Thanks guys. That helps a lot. Especially Allen's encouragement about the rising line. I know it must really be dry down there.

Tod, I will add a couple of drops at the wall before going inside. That will also give me more feet to cool and condense.

The newer compressor should help too, as it is much larger and two stage. For what I'm doing now, my little old Sears unit really strains.

David

[Al Willits]

Copper will work just fine for normal use, type L or K is rated for way more pressure than your gonna be using.

My system has several drip tees and comes out of the compressor (5hp 40 gal tank) and feeds the garge with 3/4" pipe, to 4 different points in the garage, the port I used for auto/bike painting had 2 water seperators and one filter, not sure if you want to spend as much as I did on these items, but I'd say if your gonna do any painting with this system, to spend a bit extra and buy a commercial set up.

I also used a filter at the paint gun, for painting I don't believe you can be too careful. imho

I also drain my tank on a pretty regular basis...when I remember..


Al

[tod evans]

david, please be sure to read this before you install piping....02 tod

http://www.tptools.com/statictext/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

[Chris Padilla]

Tod,

That is very interesting but I wonder if the average hobbiest really needs all that in their air compressor system? However, as it normally goes, it really depends on what one is doing. My air compressor is used mostly for blowing sawdust all over the place and occasionally runs an impact wrench and pin nailer. I like the idea of black pipe being used as it is the cheapest stuff out there since most folks aren't able to thread their own pipe and must resort to buying pre-threaded sizes at the local h/w store.

[tod evans]

chris, i think that the average "joe" in his garage doesn`t need any type of piped in air system. a good 12-15 cfm construction compressor will run 90% of the tools any hobbiest would ever use. a moisture removal system is really a necessary evil though and the little plastic particle traps don`t cut it for either tool life or painting. an extra storage tank helps some but isn`t efficient as far as space goes. running floor to ceiling drops then a decient filter will do a lot to remove moisture for small money, use a piece of rubber line to hook into the drops then run rubber to the tools. or a fellow could go with a decient decitant(sp) drier but those start at 3 bills and go up quickly.piping the entire shop for most hobbiest isn`t necessarry though....02 tod

[Al Willits]

Deciding what your going to do with an air system dictates what kind or how elaborate a system you'll need. imho

The system Todd posted is agreed, over kill for most home wood hobby shops, on the other hand, if your painting, the removal of moisture and particles are paramount and $300 to do so may just be money well spent.

Wanna blow dust, inflate tires and run a brad nailer once in awhile?
Get a cheap $100 compressor from like Sears, it'll work fine.

Wanna spend a lot of time on a piece of furniture and want the painting to come out correct, step a lot closer to the system Todd posted.

Even a little moisture coming out of the spray gun can ruin a project or at least required hours of redo time, been there done that, it ain't worth it.

Just a thought...
Al

[tod evans]

well worded al ! you hit the nail on the head....02 tod

[Allen Bookout]

That is a good article that tod pointed you to. I got to thinking about my setup and remembered that I forgot to mention the risers at the drop lines. I think that helps. I was ready to post a picture of mine so I guess that I will just go ahead. Not much extra effort or cost but it could be an effective benefit.

The one thing that I did wrong was use galvanized pipe since the humididy is so high here and have since found out that black pipe is recommended. They say that in time the galvanized material will flake off of the inside of the pipe and tend to clog up your filters. I suppose that will not effect you since you are going with copper.

Here is where my drop lines start off of the main upslope pipe. I sure didn't clean up very well but it works. Will give me something to do if I get bored I guess.