Working with mahogany question

[Mark Rios]

So...I have started making a desk and recording studio component rack combo for a man with a small recording studio (go figure ). The owner picked out this sheet of mahogany plywood and I also got 4 bd. ft. of African mahogany to trim it with.

I've never worked with mahogany and I would like to ask for any tips, hints, helpful advice, and admonishments that you can kindly providde me. Mainly, is there anything special to edge banding the plywood with the African mahogany? Is there any special properties about this mahogany that I need to be aware of to glue it up? Oily? Soaks up the glue? stuff like that.


He just wants a clear finish on it; any recommendations there?


Thanks very much for your time and advice.

[Tom Jones III]

That is unusual looking mahog. I would never have guessed.

I've used mahog several times, honduran and african. I wouldn't expect any difficulties at all. The only problem I ever had was trying to handplane a surface, there was one small spot where the grain simply would not plane nicely and I had to sand it.

I've used both BLO and wipe-on poly for a finish and was happy with both. Here is an old thread with pictures of a mahog table with BLO and wipe-on poly. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=23338

[tod evans]

plain ol` yeller glue and lacquer works for me.......they`re just more boards ...02 tod

[Mark Rios]

That is unusual looking mahog. I would never have guessed.

I've used mahog several times, honduran and african. I wouldn't expect any difficulties at all. The only problem I ever had was trying to handplane a surface, there was one small spot where the grain simply would not plane nicely and I had to sand it.

I've used both BLO and wipe-on poly for a finish and was happy with both. Here is an old thread with pictures of a mahog table with BLO and wipe-on poly. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=23338

Thanks Tom, I'll get some BLO (I may have some kickin' around) and give it a try. Very nice table BTW.

The other side of the plywood looks a little more traditional, a little more like the grain in your table. The owner liked the look of this side though so, he gets what he wants. There is actually a ton more colors in the sheet but I took the pic out in the sun and it came out kinda monotone, as you see. When I'm done I'll try to get a pic with some better lighting.

Thanks again.


Anything else?

[Mark Rios]

plain ol` yeller glue and lacquer works for me.......they`re just more boards ...02 tod

Thanks Tod. That makes it easy then.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

That is some yellowish lookin' stuff. I recommend wiping some mineral spirits on a test piece to see how dark it gets. Mahogany usually warrants the use of the dark brown wood glue.
-Jeff

[Jesse Cloud]

I really like mahogany, both ply and African hardwood. One useful tip, there may be spots on it here and there that are kind of fuzzy. Won't plane, doesn't even sand well. The trick is to dilute some glue size, maybe 50% to raise the grain and then scrape it.

I use plain old titebond yellow on it.

Mahogany loves BLO - just be sure to wipe off the excess after a few minutes.

It does have a tendency to splinter, so be sure to use backer boards when cutting, planing, etc.

And be sure to post some pics!

[Mark Rios]

Boy, this is great. Thanks to all.

I've got some TBIII. It's considerably darker than TBII and seems to match up pretty well.

I'll keep postin' some posts to keep you all posted.



Thanks very much and please add any more help if you wish.

[Steve Wargo]

If your joints are tight you'll never see the glue. Titebond works fine. That is some pretty light looking mahogany, but should make a nice piece.

[Jamie Buxton]

In my recent experience, honduras mahogany is rather reliably one color, while khaya is generally darker , and has much larger color variations. However, if you use at least one coat of some solvent-based finish -- varnish, BLO, whatever -- and you put the piece out in the sun for a couple of days, all the colors get darker and tend to get more similar than when they're fresh off the saw.

[Mark Rios]

I understand Jamie and I appreciate your explanations. I'll be sure NOT to leave it in the sun then because the owner really likes all the colors along with the grain patterns. As I mentioned, the other side of the sheet is, probably, the actual "A" side, fairly straight grained and a very uniform color.

The actual color of the side in the above pic is much more reddish than it looks, again because the sun was pretty much right on top of it. I think that once I get some sort of finish on a scrap piece I take another pic and we can see better what it should look like.

I guess I should try some BLO on one piece and then just some clear laquer on another? Spray (in a can) laquer? Brush on laquer? Is there a wipe-on laquer?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Mahogany is a fine easy wood to work No glueing or finishing issues. You might want to fil the grain - I never have.

That pix of sheet stock does not look like Mahogany to me.

[Jamie Buxton]

...
I guess I should try some BLO on one piece and then just some clear laquer on another? Spray (in a can) laquer? Brush on laquer? Is there a wipe-on laquer?

In my experience, solvent-borne finishes speed the sun-tanning effect. If I were trying to prevent it, I'd go with waterborne finishes. Experiment with your wood -- both the hondo and the khaya -- and see what you like.

[nic obie]

Mahogany is a fine easy wood to work No glueing or finishing issues. You might want to fil the grain - I never have.

That pix of sheet stock does not look like Mahogany to me.

I agree. I don't think it looks even close.

[Ben Grunow]

Mark- I have done a lot of mahog trim and the one thing I remember is that the dust is quite nasty. One of the few woods that send me right to the respirator dept before any cutting. Maybe it's just me.