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Thread: Pen Finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Kennewick, WA
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    349

    Pen Finish

    Scott Greaves, Ken Salisbury and other pen turners.
    I received a pen turned out of sage in 1999 as a gift. It has a glass smooth, shiney finish. I have been using it ever since I got it and, no dull spots, no finish deterioration. Still looks like glass. I found and asked the maker, what he used for a finish and he told me, "only boiled linseed oil, ever." I think he was stretching it, to say the least. How do I get this kind of finish? Shiney as glass and has lasted over 4 years. Maybe some bowling alley or other floor type finish? Help.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ernie
    Ernie on-the-dry-side; WA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntsville, AL (The Sun and Fun Capital of The South)
    Posts
    3,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernie Kuhn
    Scott Greaves, Ken Salisbury and other pen turners.
    I received a pen turned out of sage in 1999 as a gift. It has a glass smooth, shiney finish. I have been using it ever since I got it and, no dull spots, no finish deterioration. Still looks like glass. I found and asked the maker, what he used for a finish and he told me, "only boiled linseed oil, ever." I think he was stretching it, to say the least. How do I get this kind of finish? Shiney as glass and has lasted over 4 years. Maybe some bowling alley or other floor type finish? Help.
    Thanks in advance,
    Ernie
    Ernie -- I doubt very much if strictly a BLO finish alone would remain shiny and last as long as you mention (although I have never used BLO on the pens I make). I am a proponent of Hut's Crystal Coat followed by Hut's Wax Sticks. That finish works well for me. If the finish becomes dull after heavy usage you can reapply the Crystal Coat, wait a few minutes and buff with a soft cloth to restore the luster.

    I am sure there are many other finishes you could use depending on the time and effort you want to expend.
    "If you believe in yourself and have dedication and pride - and never quit, you'll be a winner. The price of victory is high - but so are the rewards" - - Coach Paul "Bear" Bryant
    Ken Salisbury Passed away on May 1st, 2008 and will forever be in our hearts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Blackfoot Idaho
    Posts
    274
    Hi Ernie,

    I'm with Ken on this, it is unlikely that BLO alone would result in a long-lasting shine.

    I also use HUT Crystal Coat, but instead of the HUT wax sticks I put a coat of Rennaisance wax on after the pen is assembled.

    If BLO were to provide the kind of finish you describe, it would be only as the final step in an involved process. The key to this kind of thing would be to prepare the wood surface so that it practically doesn't need a finish. Sealing the wood surface, careful sanding, more sealing, more sanding, and burnishing the wood. If you can make the wood SHINE before the finish goes on, then you have a chance.

    I sand to 12,000 with my Micro Mesh before finishing, and the wood is pretty shiney, but not enough to stand up with just BLO. BLO is not a durable finish. It will protect the wood in the pen for a short while, but as it wears off it would be replaced by the oils in the skin of the user, so you wouldn't really notice the BLO wearing off. The shine would have to come from the wood, and it would be easier if it were stabilized.

    No finish will last forever. Some last longer than others. About the toughest finish is a CA finish. I use CA to seal the wood surface, but I haven't used it as a finish because it was too hard to apply. Too hard to apply because my lathe only went down to 500rpm, but now I have the Oneway and can slow it down proper. I may start using CA as a finish - have to think about that one. Some people use a combination of CA and BLO. They feel the combination is better than either of the two parts. I've never tried it, but since I heard it from Michael Dresdner, I'd say there's a good chance it would work!

    What are you using as a finish now? Whatever it is, it could only benefit by better preparation of the surface prior to finishing. Good Luck!

    Scott.

    (P.S. - Sorry to ramble!)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Just outside of Spring Green, Wisconsin
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    9,442
    I agree with Ken that it doesn't seem to me that BLO alone will give that kind of look and service for that long. I also primarily use Hut's Crystal Coat, but I did try something difference once, with great results. I finished up a Padauk (s?) pen to about 1200 micro mesh. Then I strung the turned blanks on some thin wire and dipped them in 50/50 Poly/Naptha and hung them up to dry. Once dry, I lightly hit the ends with some sandpaper and chased the tubes out and assembled. This has been my *daily* user for about the last year or so and it still retains the gloss finish, with little/no degradation. I'm sure there are other methods and products, but that's what worked for me. YMMV...
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Appleton, WA
    Posts
    148
    Ernie...I have used a mixture of one third BLO and one third Shellac and one third Denatured alchohol. This is a recipe that I got from Penn State when I first started turning pens. I sold one to a co-worker and she used it everyday for a couple of years and it still looked fine. This has been a few years back and I am retired now so don't know how it looks. I also use the Hut wax sticks and the two part cream that I got from Penn State. They all seem to work fine. My preference is not to have a pen so slick that you can't hold on to it. Hope this helps. Rod in Appleton, WA (also on the drier side of Washington, except for the winter snow)
    Rod

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Kennewick, WA
    Posts
    349

    Pen Finish-(Really Long)

    Ken, Scott, John, and Rod,
    First of all, my heart felt thanks to all of you. I didn't really believe the pure BLO story, I knew he was "shining" me on (pardon the pun, couldn't resist).
    Ken and John, I have thought of trying Crystal Coat but until now, hadn't spoken with anyone who had used it. This is my excuse to order some. Thank you both.
    Scott, I've tried to apply CA "thin" as a finish by itself using cellophane as a wipe on applicator. Of course it ate thru that as well and stuck to my fingers. Bigger problem was in trying to "dry" sand with 2000 grit wet or dry automotive sandpaper, the CA got warm and puts out some really nasty fumes. Tried it without the sandpaper and just the two HUT polishing sticks and did not have any luck with that. How to mix CA with BLO ala Mike Dresdner? 50/50, about? Mix in what and apply with what or, apply each separately e.g., not "mixed" before application?
    John, Took a good look at the finish on my "gift" pen and it certainly does look like it was "dipped". Some slight indentations into the "pores" and, the ends are not "shiney", may have been sanded. I will also give poly/naptha dip a try.
    Rod, I tried about a 50/50 mix of BLO and shellac, without the denatured alcohol (didn't think of it). That was probably my problem. I have some more that I will make up according to your mix and give it a try. By the way, we didn't get any snow last year. Are you near the remnants of the old Dalles/Fort Simcoe military road?
    Again, thank you all. I have a few "paths forward" to try. Sorry for the long post.
    ERnie
    Ernie on-the-dry-side; WA

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