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Thread: Blum Tandem slides

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Overland Park, KS
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    617

    Blum Tandem slides

    Has anyone here used and installed some Blum Tandem drawer slides?

    I'm planning on replacing my mothers kitchen drawers and plan to use these slides.

    Any tips, concerns?

    I remember see a article that show a way to make the drawers so the the drawer bottom could be replace, and you didn't have to drive the hole in the back of the drawer. The clip hooked over the drawer bottom. Does anyone remember seeing that article that could point me to it?

    I'm also wondering if I should use rear or side mounts on the back end. I could use either based on the current cabinet contstrution. Is there an advantage to one or the other?

    This will be a overlap drawer in a face frame cabinet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
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    2,347
    Steve, check out this jig which is available on woodworker's hardware:







    Here are some instructions from woodworker's hardware:
    http://wwhardware.com/media/products/apcharts/B552H.PDF


    Here are some from blum off of cabinetparts:
    http://www.cabinetparts.com/inc/pdf/...andem/552h.pdf

  3. #3
    I ordered a bunch from ww hardware and have installed exactly 1 so far. See my recent post on how to (or how not to) attach the front locks.

    Very easy to install. 2 screw in each front locking mechanism, and 2 screws in the rear brackets. You do have to make a notch in the back of your drawer, and drill a hole, but that's it. There are specs on the dimensions of the drawer the need to be paid attention. Like the bottom should be 1/2" from the bottom of the sides, etc.

    Most all is explained well in the above links.

    I wouldn't bother with the jig. I just use a handsaw and a chisel. The notches will never be seen.

    Also, the adjustments are very easy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    10,301
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Roxberg
    I remember see a article that show a way to make the drawers so the the drawer bottom could be replace, and you didn't have to drive the hole in the back of the drawer. The clip hooked over the drawer bottom. Does anyone remember seeing that article that could point me to it?
    The Tandems are pretty much my default drawer slide.

    One caution, which you've probably figured out, is that you will probably need to build new drawer boxes. The Tandems require different box dimensions than other drawer slides (well, except for the competitors like the new Accuride ones).

    I remember reading that tip about the drawer bottom, but I don't remember where. IIRC, the drawer bottom passes entirely under the back of the drawer (like solid-lumber drawer bottoms). It is nailed or screwed up to the bottom of the drawer back. The rear edge protrudes far enough that the Tandem's hook can catch on it. As far as I'm concerned, replacing the drawer bottom never happens, so that isn't a good argument for doing this. However, there is a good argument for it. If you're making the drawer from 1/2" stock, and making them the way Tandem suggests, you're at hazard of going through the back when you bore the hole for the hook. DAMHIKT.

    The small drawback to doing this other drawer construction scheme is that the drawer depth is different. Instead of it being an 18" deep drawer, the bottom will go to 18", but the back will only be at 17 1/2" or so.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Overland Park, KS
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    617
    Thanks for the input so far.

    The last question remaining is side or rear mount for the back. I can do either. I believe the side mount may be eaiser to install but that is just a guess.

    The sides would only have to be at the same height. The rears would have to be at the same height and set parrel to each other and square to the faceframe.

    I'm just guessing, do those statement make sense?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,301
    I almost always use side mounting. Like you say, it is easier to lay out where the mounting goes. Also, my cabinet backs are typically 1/4" plywood. Use a rear-mount, and you get screw tips poking out through the back. Me, I'd be highly likely to slice myself with the screw tips.

    When doing side mounting, I often build height panels. They are pieces of scrap which support the slide at the correct height while I drill the mounting holes with a vix bit. The same height panel then swaps to the other side of the cabinet to do the other slide for that drawer; this ensures that the drawer rides level. If you do this, install the slides from the top down. Try it bottom up, and the installed slides interfere with the upper height panels.

    If you don't have scrap ply to make panels, you can make two sticks do the same job. It is just more pieces to juggle.

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