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Thread: DC to machine hookup confusion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    172

    DC to machine hookup confusion

    I'm at the very last stage of completing my DC system and could really appreciate some pointers.

    In a nutshell, I'm kind of at a loss on how to take my 6in pvc pipe and hook it up to some of my machines. I've got all the blast gates done and am just feet away from each machine. I've read this forum extensively and of course consulted Bill Pentz's excellent site, but I guess something is just not clicking for me.

    For example, the jointer. My Jet 6in jointer has a square output chute with a plastic 4in DC hookup. So do I remove the plastic and replace it with a larger square of wood with a 6in hole in the middle? Then do I put a "take off" in that hole to attach to my duct? All these take offs seem to be metal. Will they fit my SDR pvc?

    Then for the TS, BS, and router table, it looks like I need to branch out with 5 and 3.5 lines. There is no 5in pvc. Do I switch to metal or just go with flex hose?

    Finally, what's the best way to make a 5x3 wye? I read about using the pipe template software to cut your own and I'm ok with that, but if I take 6in pipe and cut 5in and 3in holes in it, do I just cap off the 6in end?

    Thanks for any pointers! I've done an aweful lot of reading on this but can't seem to find the way forward. All the machine stuff seems to use metal, but I'm running pvc!

  2. #2
    I can't help you on anything but the jointer. Take the smaller outlet off of the jointer, seal off the square hole with wood and one of those round duct deals with the adhesive on one end and the male end of the duct on the other (sorry I can't do better than that on the name. You can get them at Home Depot). I've found that the 6" snaplock fits snugly inside the 2729 PVC--cut a length of that, slide it up into the pvc, and hold it in place with small screws. Then the 6" flex hose will fit both on the pvc end (on the snaplock extension) and onto the jointer. Hold the hose in place with clamps on both ends. Good luck getting the system up and running.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    37,935
    There are any number of ways to adapt your duct system to your machines. In some cases, you'll want to increase the port size and that can be done with commonly available materials as you cite. In some cases, you'll want to or need to reduce (near the machine) to something that is compatible with the existing port. (Some machines you just can't change port size easily or practically)

    Most folks do use a short span of flexible duct (hose...and use good quality) to make the final connection from the fixed duct work to the machine port. While there is no harm in going right to the machine with the rigid stuff, I suspect the majority of machines in a non-commercial environment tend to be portable/mobile, so direct ducting isn't really practical. In fact, some machines will likely be "off line" and in the "tool corral" when not in use...my shop is that way for things like my combo sander and drum sander. I have a flex hose available from a drop on the ceiling in the area I normally use them and another drop elsewhere in the shop as an alternate location.

    Adapting between PVC and metal components isn't too much of an effort. Some will mate "naturally" and some with modification either to the metal or to the PVC. Just look at each situation with some creativity. (Some folks will use rubber "thingies" from the plumbing department for tough matches)
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  4. #4
    My jointer has a rectangle dust port but is odd shaped enough to cause me fits. I resolved the problem by sealing the hole with 1/4" masonite and citting a hole for the DC hose size. I was able to epoxy a piece of PVC in the hole even though with the hose off looking in the dust port you can see that the jointer body blocks a portion of the hole. I opted for this as it gave me more area at the dicharge hole than adapting down to a smaller hose would have. In other words instead of adapting down to a 4" I get the area of a 5.5" or whatever it is and still have a standard size connection point for the hose.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” -- George Orwell


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    85

    HVAC fittings..

    Chris,

    I also use 6" pvc. I use 6" Flex hose from Grizzly for the last few feet, and typically use a HVAC fitting (metal) from Home Depot - many fittings have a 6" round end and are either square or rectangular at the other end.

    Here is my Dust Collection web page - see separate links for my planer, bandsaw, etc. HVAC fittings were used on all of those. I also used one on my jointer, though don't have a page for it.

    http://webpages.charter.net/harkerho...loverview.html

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    172
    Thanks so much for the responses. There are some good pointers and pictures I'll take advantage of.

    I guess my problem is I'm a giant reader/researcher and very much into reading instruction manuals before building something. In this case, there just is no one "right" way to do it, you just go step by step and find out what works!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    13,198
    Chris,

    Do what you can in your manuals, online, and in books but this is one area where you need to go get your hands/brain dirty in the shop!
    Crown Molding: cut, cope, cuss, caulk, chill....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Mountainburg, AR
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    2,498
    Blog Entries
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    I don't know what part of the world you are from, but here in Arkansas we call this process "southern engineering". HVAC and plumbing fittings can be adapted and modified in some pretty creative ways to fit your needs.
    A few general points to keep in mind. Avoid 90deg ducting turns (use 2 45's instead). Minimize the use of flex hose, yet don't be afraid to use it. Taper size changes in your ducting. All of these things are meant to reduce drag and to let the air move smoothly thru to ducting.
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

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