Suggestions for Walnut End Table

[Mike Hill]

I am in the process of building a Walnut end table. Would appreciate any suggestions on finishing the table. I have finished Walnut jewelery boxes using BLO and 3 to 6 coats of lacquer. They looked fine, but since this is turning out to be a really nice table, I am interested in getting a smooth and durable finish.

Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.
Mike

[Jim Becker]

I happen to love the look of shellac on walnut...and even if you choose to top coat it, the shellac will bring out a lot of nice things in the wood.

[Neil Bosdet]

I recently got an "education" on walnut from my friend who owns several custom door companies. I am building a custom walnut dining table and was very interested in his excellent experience. Regardless of what you top cote your table with, stain your walnut with dark walnut stain. This is if you want the typical dark brown colour associated with walnut. Over time, walnut gets much lighter in colour, contrary to most other woods. Staining it keeps it as dark as it starts out. After this I'd splash on a 1 lb cut of shellac followed by several coats of laquer. (I use waterbourne).

[Steve Schoene]

On the otherhand, I love the mellow look of old walnut as do some others. I know one fellow who builds William & Mary furniture from walnut in his Park Avenue apartment in NYC. He bleaches out all the color with two-part bleach so he can dye it to the proper aged look.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Steve on this...I love the golden glow that walnut gets over time, especially with a shellac finish on air-dried, un-steamed black walnut. Pure honey...sweet!

[Jerry Olexa]

I also love the look of padded shellac on Walnut. There are no swirls or brush marks. I had a post here a few weeks ago of a blanket/toy chest I built and you can see the shellac finish on walnut on the top...HTH

[Dennis Peacock]

Yup, my vote is dark garnet dewaxed shellac on top of the walnut. The dark garnet enhances the colors in walnut and really brings more of the beauty of walnut out.

[Mike Hill]

Appreciate the replies and have a few questions:

1. I have one coat of BLO on the Walnut, it was thinned 50% with mineral spirits. Can I still use Shellac over it?
2. Any tips on applying Shellac? 1# cut or?
3. I was consider ind using a grain filler, but maybe many coats of thin shellac will get in those little Walnut cells?
4. What is a good source for dewaxed shellac?

Thanks
Mike

[Jerry Olexa]

Appreciate the replies and have a few questions:

1. I have one coat of BLO on the Walnut, it was thinned 50% with mineral spirits. Can I still use Shellac over it?
2. Any tips on applying Shellac? 1# cut or?
3. I was consider ind using a grain filler, but maybe many coats of thin shellac will get in those little Walnut cells?
4. What is a good source for dewaxed shellac?

Thanks
Mike

1, Shellac over BLO is fine ,even desirable ,but be sure BLO is dry.
2. I usually use 2 lb cut and Brush 1st coat and pad all other coats. Padding to me insures an even coat w no brush marks or buildups.
3, Depends on look u want but IMHO I don't think a filler is necessary.
4. I bought my last flakes @ Woodraft but Homestead finishing has them as well as others.
G'Luck

[Mike Hill]

Thanks Jerry: I have never done any "Padding", but I guess there is a first time for everything.
Mike

[Mike Hill]

I had one other thought. I have a good HVLP Conversion Gun and a big Compressor. Is spraying a 1 1/2# Cut going to give me a nice finish? After and initial 1# cut application, of course.
Mike

[Jim Becker]

You can spray shellac just fine...but it's going to take many, many applications to get the build you would by brushing a #2 cut. Of course, it doesn't involve brushing, either, which is very different than brushing varnishes due to the quick dry time and nature of the product. A good compromise might be to spray a bit and then pad the table surface to a deep shine.

[ken gibbs]

I have found that using a good comercial brand of walnut stain on the walnut surface will prevent sunlight form eventually making the walnut blanch out to a lighter shade. Stain it and let it dry for 24 hours to make sure no water is present. Then use a good grade of exterior ureathane thinned 50 percent with paint thinner. Coat the inside and all surfaces, even the ones you can not see. You will find that the diluted urethane will not build up or ridge when drying. Use 0000 steal wool between coats but you can start using 400 grit sandpaper for your first several coats. My brand new 24" X 60" computer desk I just finished is topped with walnut and sugar maple and has eleven coats of thinned urethane on it. It gives you a deep finish that is very hard and doesn't expand or contract with the weather.

[Chris Weishaar]

Mike,

What ever you end up with make sure you run test pieces through the finish process first! It would be a shame to end up with a finish that you don't like. I just worked with Walnut for the first time. I did one coat of BLO that was wiped off after a few minutes and quickly coated with a 1.5# cut of super blond dewaxed shellac. I did about 3 coats of the shellac and then topped with poly due to the final use. I would never use poly on furniture, but you could top with laquer or varnish.

I did several test pieces with different coats and colors of shellac. I had heard alot about dark garnett shellac on walnut but I didn't like the look. I tried just the shellac and then shellac over BLO and the coloring wasn't what I was looking for. It had just a hint of red/purple. Maybe a lesser cut would have worked better. Regardless I love the depth and clarity that I achieved with the BLO and blond shellac.

Finally I got my dewaxed shellac from the shellac shack. Good quick service with great prices.

Chris

[Greg Cole]

Yup, my vote is dark garnet dewaxed shellac on top of the walnut. The dark garnet enhances the colors in walnut and really brings more of the beauty of walnut out.

Me three...... I like the darker shellacs much more than the dyes or stains.

Greg