Plane Selection - Please Help!

[Hans Braul]

OK, I know, this subject (or subjects very much like it) has been raised many times in various forms.

HOWEVER......

I need your help. I am a relative beginner, though I have dabbled for the better part of 30 years. I have become addicted to making shavings in favour of making dust. I NEEEEEED a few good planes, but can only afford one right now. I currently own:
1. A Record Jack Plane, which I have been able to tune and get reasonable results.
2. A vintage Stanley smooth plane with a seriously pitted blade and a body that REALLY needs work, including replacement of the Y-shaped thing (what's it called?) that engages the depth adjust screw (since one arm of the Y is broken off).
3. A really crappy new Stanley block plane that I have never been able to get working
4. An unidentifyable tiny block plane that gets my sentimental vote because it's really cute, but it really doesn't work all that well.

I have spend considerable time reading, honing, reading, honing again, testing, playing with my tools, testing again, etc etc, and I have reached the conclusion I have got the best out of my current fleet, and it's ain't that pretty. My shop includes a 6" jointer, a tablesaw, and a 10" lunchbox planer.

I clearly need to expand my collection of planes. The options under consideration are:
1. LV bevel up Jack plane with 25, 38 and 50 degree blades
2. LV low angle block plane
3. LV bevel up smoother
4. LV Low angle smooth plane.

I build furniture, picture frames, boxes, tables .... relatively small scale stuff but I aspire to beauty and really good work.

HERE'S MY QUESTION:
If you had the $$$ to buy only one of the above, which would it be????

I am leaning toward...

On second thought, better let you guys weigh in with your opinions, nevermind what I had in mind.

[Richard Gillespie]

Hans;

My vote would be for the LV BU Jack. It is the most versatile plane I own. With the three blades mentioned you can handle most any situation. The only problem I've ever experienced with it was on one piece of Ash where it lifted the grain, not cut it.

That's my $.02.

[Hans Braul]

Thanks Richard,

I am thinking either the BU Jack or the Low Angle smoother. I want to use the plane with a shooting board, on end grain and for a variety of woods. The Bevel Up Smoother is not straight on the side, so can't be used for shooting. I was considering a combination of the block plane and the smoother, but have decided to exercise some restraint and buy only one plane.

I'd love to hear from more creekers. Derek Cohen - you out there??

Thanks in advance
Hans

[Jake Helmboldt]

I know this wasn't one of your considerations, but have you put a new iron (blade) in a used plane?

I put a LN thick iron in my vintage Bailey #4 smoother and had to open the mouth slightly, but it works very well for me. Total invested ~$55 and about 3 hours of fettling.

I'm gonna be in Maine in November and hope that LN will allow me to test drive a couple planes because I want to see just how good they really are. Given my skills I don't know if I could do one justice. The Bailey has done really well even on birdseye maple and figured chestnut. I might even bring a piece of wood to see how it works.

Jake

[Ian Smith]

Hans,

I'd go for either the BU Jack Plane or the Low Angle Block. The BU Jack can be used for shooting, smoothing or hogging off a lot of wood quickly and with the extra blades you'd have pretty much everything covered. The low angle block plane is also a very useful tool. I've got one (I've also got a BU Jack) and it is my most used plane. I use it for trimming, chamfering and even small scale smoothing with a higher angle blade installed.

[Hans Braul]

Thanks all!

I thought it over some more and just couldn't wait any longer so I ordered the BU Jack. Can't wait till it arrives.

Just came home with some wonderfully weird cherry for a table - itching to get started!

Hans

[Ian Smith]

I don't think you'll regret the purchase.