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Thread: steps to construct face frames

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Appleton, WI
    Posts
    237

    steps to construct face frames

    How do you all make face frames for cabinets? What order of milling do you use? I recently made my first set and was wondering what the most efficient method was. Here are my steps starting with skip planed maple lumber.

    1. Crosscut stock to finished length + 1"
    2. Plane boards to finished thickness (they were all flat to start with)
    3. Edge joint boards
    4. Rip rails to finished width (some burning on the TS due to wood movement)
    5. Rip stiles to finished with (also some burning on the TS due to wood movement)
    6. Crosscut rails to finished length such that overall frame is width of cabinet carcass +1/8"
    7. Crosscut stiles to finished length such that overall frame is width of cabinet carcass +1/8"
    8. Sand burn marks off all the edges to 150grit
    9. Assemble face frames with glue and pocket screws
    10. Finish sand face of cabinet to 180 grit.

    Any better way?
    Jason Morgan

  2. #2
    I mill rough stock to 25/32, then rip to width, 8-10-12-16' foot material.
    In 1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2 widths. [ What I mormally use ]
    Then cut to length.

    Planing down all those short pieces, and having planer snipe on the end of each piece would be a pita I would think


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southern Louisiana
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    19
    i rip my stiles and rails first to 1/8" over final width. then plane the edges of all these on both sides to remove saw marks. also plane to final thickness if required. then cross cut all my lengths.

    not to say this is the right way, just the way i have always done it, haven't had a problem yet. as long as my table saw is cutting square everything else pans out nicely

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Glenmoore, PA
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    2,194
    Can't add much to what Steve said as he likely builds more cabinets in a day than I will build in my life.

    For step 8 in your description above , I ripped mine a little wide, edge jointed and ran them through the planer on edge to final width. This did a nice job of removing any burns or saw marks. You have to make sure your stock is dead square to have this work properly though.

  5. #5
    Probably no wrong, right way to do these operations.
    I do it the way I do to save time.
    I couldn't justify the time involved the way you do yours.
    I use thin-kerf rip blades that do not leave much saw marks.
    Its a glue line rip blade. The times I do get a little burning mark on the rails, stiles, I just take those pieces and touch them up on my edge sander.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    McKean, PA
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    I start with stock milled on four sides. I cut the rails and stiles to length + 1/8 . I cut the railes long enough to form a lap joint with the stiles + 1/8. I make the face cuts in the rails and stiles to the exact height and width of the opening I will need then remove the material to for the lap with a tenon cutting jig. Then I rip the pieces to width plus a bit for clean up on the jointer. Ripping to width after cutting the lap joints insures that the pieces are exactly the same length. I glue the four pieces together insuring they are glued up square. Then I trim off the overhang on the lap joints. Finally I cut a rabbet in the back of the stiles to fit the side panels. This makes a frame that is ready to attach the side panels to.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    The milling part is pretty straight forward. BUT, the key to "outstanding" rails and stiles for face frames or anything else is to carefully select the lumber so that things match/complement in grain and color. This may even mean cutting some components out of a board at an angle to the original board edge! Take a look at the casework from Thos Moser when you have a few minutes. If you look carefully, you'll even notice that rails (and stiles) across a piece often come from the same board. Similarly, you can also start with thicker stock and resaw for a "bookmatch" between a set of rails or stiles.

    I realize that this commentary goes beyond your original question, but it's certainly something to strive for when and if you can. It DOES make a difference in many subtle and not-so-subtle ways visually. Finishing starts with the selection of the material you will build with. Do that well and take advantage of the enhancement it brings to the final project.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Cave In Rock, Illinois
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    119
    I'm with Steve. There's really no right or wrong way to do it. To me the main difference is time. If you are building for yourself or a project for a friend,mill up your stock to suit your own techniques. No one works exactly the same.
    But when you are doing it in a cabinetshop the amount of time to do something is a major factor. I'd be way too long making cabinets doing it your way. But that sure doesn't make it wrong for you. Best of luck.

    Chris

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