Hello world!
I am brand new to the forums (this is my first post) but I've searched a bunch and have already found tons of valuable info. So much good info that I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on my very first table saw (I'm leaning heavily toward the PM2000 but was also considering the 1023SLX, as well as the GI and Delta hybrids at one point - but I'm really sold on the riving knife feature). There's one last question for me to ponder before I can feel 100% comfortable with my purchase-to-be. I'm new to all the TS lingo so please bear with me if my language is off... oh, and FWIW, I'm somewhat of a newbie woodworker (dad introduced me to many tools and projects as a kid but I haven't done much recently) with the expectation that woodworking will become a hobby and I'd be working on various home-improvement projects, e.g. shelving, bookcases, cabinets, basic furniture. However, I could very well decide that woodworking's not for me and end up selling the thing. Anyway, on with my question:
I spent some time fiddling with a PM2000 at the local Woodcraft and was comparing it to the nearby SawStop. I was mainly looking at their riving knife systems. Has anyone had a chance to use the optional "low profile riving knife" on the 2000 (presumably a knife similar to the "shark fin" knife included with the SS)? I'm curious to know how well the "pivot" system works on the 2000 - particularaly in terms of how well it maintains the all-important knife-to-blade orientation - as the blade is raised/lowered. Is Powermatic's a proven system? I read that SS uses some gas strut system to achieve uniform vertical movement (no pivot). How does the new Grizzly G0605X 12" do it (watch this demo)? How do the Euro saws implement their riving knife systems? Is PM's "pivot" system considered "experimental" (like their castor system)?
Also, reading the PM2000 manual, it appears that the knife clamp does not have a vertical adjustment (you can only tweak its lateral alignment with the blade and its horizontal proximity to the blade). The SS (AFAICT) does have a vertical adjustment. Is this a significant limitation of the PM2000? PM2000 owners, is there any way at all to adjust the knife vertically (short of tightening it down while suspending it in the clamp rather than fully seating it)? One reason I ask is because IF it turns out that this "pivot" system does a poor job at maintaining orientation (see above paragraph) you might just need that vertical adjustment capability in order to compensate for it. I'm hoping that the lack of vertical adjustibility implies that the "pivot" system works perfectly.
Can any PM2000 owners out there comment on how well the "pivot" system works with the "low profile" knife? Can anyone shed some insight on the various riving knife systems. Which one is preferred? Which is the most robust?
Woodcraft is going to call me this week when their shipment of 2000s comes in and I'd like to be able to tell them to put my name on one of them! Please tell me the 2000's "pivot" system is not a DUD! If it is, I might just go with a less expensive portable TS with riving knife (e.g. Bosch 4000) and upgrade to a cabinet once they figure out the technology. I'm pretty sold on having a riving knife. The more I read about and touch table saws the more I realize how all too easy it is get hurt, even if you're paying full attention! Safety has become a top criterion in my TS purchase. My guitar would sorley miss my fingers!
Thanks in advance for replying to my first post!
Chris