Table Saw Dust Collection Help

[William Harrison]

I am new to woodworking but I am inheriting quite a few tools. I am setting up a shop in my 2 car garage. Of all the tools I am getting I am not getting a dust collector or a table saw. After much research I have settled on Clear Vue sytem for dust collection and a Stopsaw for a tablesaw. Here is where I need help. After having read the Bill Pentz website I am convinced he is correct in his conclusions. It seems that I will need to modify the stopsaw to connect to a 5" port under the table saw and a 3.5" port above the saw for good dust collection. If you read this Bill Pentz thank you for your hard work the website is very helpful.

Has anyone modified a stopsaw 4" port to a 5" port? It has a shroud and before I buy and start taking the saw apart I would like to know what I am myself into. Changing the diameter of the cabinet port is one thing but how do you change the diameter of the shroud? Can the shroud be removed for modification?

Has anyone looked into the different dust collection efficiencies in collecting dust when a shroud is present (as is the case in a stopsaw) vrs collecting at the bottom of the cabinet when just a chute is present? I guess what I am hoping for is that with the presence of a shroud I won't need to modify the built in 4" diameter dust collection. Again I believe the 5" is necessary but I am not sure if it applies when a shroud is present.

Thanks for any insight into my questions and hope they make sense.

bill harrison

[Jim Becker]

Bill, honestly, if it were me, the fact that the SS has the blade shroud means I wouldn't bother changing the port size. The dust collection is already concentrated at the blade...you're not dealing with evacuating the whole cabinet constantly as you would be with most other cabinet saws. While this goes against the theory you mention...your saw is also very different due to it's inclusion of the shroud. My recommendation would be to concentrate your dust control efforts on things you really can improve 'cause changing the innards of your SS isn't going to bring much gain...it's already a good design.

[glenn bradley]

I agree with Jim. The need to draw on the entire volume of the cabinet (like I have to) is not present. I believe your problem is solved before you begin. IMHO.

[William Harrison]

Thanks for the input, I was thinking the same thing. I hate to rely on opinion vrs a facts especially since this is something that can be difinitively decided by stopsaw or the powers that be. Since I don't have the equipment to monitor what is going on with the dust nor any experience I will have to rely on the good will of others. I thank you for your input and since its the path of least resistance and I don't have anything else to go on I will most likely do as was suggested. At least no one posted that I am crazy to use the saw as is. Again thanks for your time.

Bill

[Bill Pentz]

I am new to woodworking but I am inheriting quite a few tools. I am setting up a shop in my 2 car garage. Of all the tools I am getting I am not getting a dust collector or a table saw. After much research I have settled on Clear Vue sytem for dust collection and a Stopsaw for a tablesaw. Here is where I need help. After having read the Bill Pentz website I am convinced he is correct in his conclusions. It seems that I will need to modify the stopsaw to connect to a 5" port under the table saw and a 3.5" port above the saw for good dust collection. If you read this Bill Pentz thank you for your hard work the website is very helpful.

Has anyone modified a stopsaw 4" port to a 5" port? It has a shroud and before I buy and start taking the saw apart I would like to know what I am myself into. Changing the diameter of the cabinet port is one thing but how do you change the diameter of the shroud? Can the shroud be removed for modification?

Has anyone looked into the different dust collection efficiencies in collecting dust when a shroud is present (as is the case in a stopsaw) vrs collecting at the bottom of the cabinet when just a chute is present? I guess what I am hoping for is that with the presence of a shroud I won't need to modify the built in 4" diameter dust collection. Again I believe the 5" is necessary but I am not sure if it applies when a shroud is present.

Thanks for any insight into my questions and hope they make sense.

bill harrison

Bill,

Thanks for the kind words.

I would agree with the advice to leave your lower cabinet port and internal ducting alone and focus on making sure your blade guard hood blocks, traps and collects the dust. I do not know if the Stopsaw has a good blade guard hood or not. In my recent testing of quite a few shops, regardless of size of dust collector or cyclone, all who had poor or no hoods failed their air quality tests. Just too much dust was launched off the top of the blade, so a hood must block that stream if it is going to work. Those who had good hoods passed if they had those hoses connected via 3.5 to 4" to their 2 hp or larger dust collectors, 3 hp or larger cyclones, or who connected to a 1.5 hp or larger dust collector below with a 2.5" good blade guard hood connected directly to their larger shop vacuums. One of the nicest setups I saw in three different shops used a Felder/Hammer blade guard attached to the splitter without an over arm guard. The difference between the Felder and Hammer is $10, but otherwise identical. The nicest splitter setup I saw was the Biesemeyer.

bill

[John Bush]

Hi Bill,
Congrats on your "equipment inheritance" and your foray into WWing!
I have the SS and there is a section of 4" flex pipe between the shroud and the 4" connector on the back of the cabinet. I think the design is good because little dust accumulates in the cab. I would suggest you give it a try as is and modify later if your experience then indicates it. There does seem to be dust from the table top, as you could expect. I bought an extra blade guard to use in building an over-the-blade DC collector but haven't finished(started, actually) the project yet. I plan on making a plexiglas(Leucite??) blade cover with a 4" connector attached. My ducting drops from the ceiling so I can suspend the flex pipe without the need for an arm. I have the standard clear, with wire, and black pipe, but both seem a bit heavy or stiff so I may need another, lighter pipe. Good luck and let us know how you like your new equip. JCB,

[Roy Wall]

Bill,

I have a 4" branch off the main 6" trunk above my SS and down to the blade guard.....I've modified it and will post a photo later (I'm on the laptop...)

Secondly - below the saw a 5" wye branches off the same 6" trunch and I run it about 7' to the port in the lower cabinet. I choke it down to the 4" port right there. I get very good DC in both places...

[John Bush]

Thanks Roy,
I'm interested in how you designed the table top blade guard connection. JCB

[Cameron Reddy]

I use a Loc Line hose that I can move around to best effect. Usually, I have it a few inches in front of the blade. Combined with my under the table connection, very little dust gets airborne. And I use the Clear Vue which generates huge amounts of airflow and suction.