Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 25

Thread: Installing zero-clearance throat plate

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    169

    Installing zero-clearance throat plate

    Hi Friends,
    What is the best way to install a zero-clearance throat plate when blade cannot be lowered enough? I have a Delta contractor's saw with a standard carbide-tipped 10" blade. Will I need to buy a smaller blade to use to install the throat plate?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
    Posts
    5,513
    Welcome to SMC.
    Great bunch of folks here.

    Never had that problem Sue
    How about a smaller diameter blade from your Csaw or a dado chipper
    Load it up with some scrap then raise the blade till it punches through the ZCI.
    Last edited by Tyler Howell; 11-21-2006 at 8:58 AM.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Susan, three methods come to mind:

    1) Clamp the new insert directly over the OEM unit and raise your standard blade.

    2) Use the outer blade from a dado set as Tyler suggests as it's smaller in diameter and will "fit" under the new insert

    3) Route a channel in the bottom of the new insert to allow it to sit in the saw with the blade fully down

    I actually have used all three methods, but typically use number two at this point for simplicity.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Upstate New York
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by Sue Wise
    Hi Friends,
    What is the best way to install a zero-clearance throat plate when blade cannot be lowered enough? I have a Delta contractor's saw with a standard carbide-tipped 10" blade. Will I need to buy a smaller blade to use to install the throat plate?
    Sue, welcome aboard!

    I use a blade out of my circular saw (7 1/4") to start the cut in the throat plate, and then move up to the 10" blade. Make sure you clamp a piece of scrap wood over the top of the throat plate so that it doesn't go flying out, and it prevents tearout on the top of the plate when the blade comes through! Good luck!
    Last edited by Tom Pritchard; 11-21-2006 at 9:56 AM.
    "Be true to your work, your word, and your friend." -Henry David Thoreau

  5. If your 10" blade is a standard 1/8" thick blade then use Jim's # 2 suggestion as the outer blade from a dado set is 1/8" thick.

    If your 10" blade is 3/32" thick then use a smaller blade that is also 3/32" thick.
    Tipp City, Ohio

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northern New Jersey
    Posts
    1,958
    I always used a 7 1/4" circular saw blade but it was always too thin. Never thought about using the blade from my dado. But, then again, I was never the sharpest knive in the draw either.

    -Jeff

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    169
    Thanks for all the suggestions. The circular saw blade is a bit thin and I don't have a dado blade (but could probably borrow one), but clamping the insert on the old insert to begin the cut would work well. Thanks again for the help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    West Chester, PA
    Posts
    231
    I wouldn't use the clamp-over method to cut the complete slot because if you are off a little bit, then you end up with something more than "zero" clearance. I want the insert blank in place and adjusted for exact fit before cutting the slot.

    You can use the circ. saw blade, then add a thin washer against the saw arbor flange to make a wider slot. If you stop the slot cuts so the 10" blade clears but before the thin blade comes through the top, then you needn't be too precise about the pre-cut slot width (so the clamp-over method would work here, too). Grizzly phenolic inserts have a ¼" wide pre-cut, in fact, so the same blank can be used for a normal ZCI or one made for a bevel angle, etc.

    Don't forget to add some type of hold-down device at least to the rear of the ZCI. I like to use a positive-lock at both rear and front, so it is not likely to come out on its own.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    I assume you have one of the ZCI's that does not have the pre cut dado or you have made your own as I do. I have used 2 methods; put my dado on which is 8" and clears with no problem ( I raise it to within an 1/8" or so of puching through set for about 3/8" wide), If you have no dado blade for the TS, use the router table or free hand with a guide and slot the ZCI in the blade position to a depth and width that will allow installation.

    The thing you DON't do is turn on the saw and lower the insert onto the blade . Once I establish the position to add my slots, I go ahead and do a half a dozen so they're ready. I mark my ZCI's on the underside with a felt pen as to; 24T Amana, 40T Lietz, WWII, Frued 80T, etc.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    108
    Let me preface by saying I am far from being a table saw connoisseur, hence the seemingly simple question.

    Is it common to have a contractor's TS in which a 10" blade doesn't lower enough to be below the table? Does this saw come stock with a 10" blade or smaller?

    I'm sure I am missing something here...just seems odd that the blade would not be capable of lowering out of sight unless it wasn't designed for a 10" blade.

    Regardless, sounds like enough good recommendations that the problem has been encountered before.

    Thanks!
    Matt

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    A suburb of Los Angeles California
    Posts
    644

    Matt - some saws retract their blade below

    the top of the table, but not below the bottom of the table. These are the saws that need some relief on the bottom of a ZCI.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Guyrd
    Let me preface by saying I am far from being a table saw connoisseur, hence the seemingly simple question.

    Is it common to have a contractor's TS in which a 10" blade doesn't lower enough to be below the table? Does this saw come stock with a 10" blade or smaller?

    I'm sure I am missing something here...just seems odd that the blade would not be capable of lowering out of sight unless it wasn't designed for a 10" blade.

    Regardless, sounds like enough good recommendations that the problem has been encountered before.

    Thanks!
    Matt

    Matt, The blade on all of saws do, in fact, go below the plane of the table surface. However, some (most?) don't lower 1/2" or so below the table, which is the thickness (roughly) of a blank insert, especially a homemade one. This is an issue that all WWers will encounter at some point in their hobby. It can be very dangerous if done incorrectly but usually goes without a hitch when someone unfamiliar with the process asks questions about it before doing it, like Sue is doing here.

    As some have mentioned, some ZCI manufacturers put in cut outs/kerfs in the bottom of their ZCI's to try to helpp deal with this situation. But some tablesaws have baldes that just clear the surface and one still needs to use a smaller blade or some other method to get the blade started.

    hth
    Mark Rios

    Anything worth taking seriously is worth making fun of.

    "All roads lead to a terrestrial planet finder telescope"

    We arrive at this moment...by the unswerving punctuality...of chance.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    108
    Chuck...thanks! That makes much more sense to me. I didn't realize the distance between the top of the table and the bottom of the ZCI was so much that the blade wouldn't clear a ZCI in it's fully retracted position. I'll have to take note on my TS to see if I would run into this problem when replacing an insert.

    Mark...just saw your response...thanks to you too! What a wealth of knowledge here!

    Thanks again!
    Matt
    Last edited by Matt Guyrd; 11-21-2006 at 1:36 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Morrison, CO
    Posts
    169
    Thanks Gary! Using a washer to make the slot wider is a great idea.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Ontario
    Posts
    390
    I have noticed that Norm has a ZCI on his Unisaw. It appears to be made of metal with a replaceable center section. Can't find any source for this product. Anyone know a source for this ZCI?

    Greg

Similar Threads

  1. Looking for a throat plate
    By Bart Leetch in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 09-12-2008, 11:26 AM
  2. Ridgid TS3650 - Zero Clearance Plate
    By Jerry Bittner in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-26-2006, 6:58 PM
  3. Design ?? on Installing Mast-R-Lift Plate
    By Gilbert Vega in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-20-2006, 9:16 PM
  4. Procedure For Making Your Own Router Base Plate
    By Norman Hitt in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-18-2005, 5:16 AM
  5. Question on Zero Clearance plate and homemade splitter
    By Delano Mireles in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 08-20-2003, 12:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •