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Thread: What to finish?

  1. #1
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    What to finish?

    I'm fairly new to "real" woodworking. As a 4 year old I would spend an hour or two pounding away in the basement workshop before coming upstairs and proudly show off to my father a bent nail buried halfway into a board. Now I'm 37, I've got most of what I need for a "real" shop, minus a bandsaw, and I've just finished my second bed, a nice maple sleigh bed that I'm quite proud of. LOML is very happy. I plan to complete the bedroom set - night table, blanket chest and bureau.

    My question is this: In finishing a piece of furniture, what surfaces get the full schedule of finish steps? The back side of a bed rail for example doesn't show, but it should get at least some finish to help prevent warping. It's often said that all surfaces should get the same finish to equalize moisture absorption.

    I read articles about the number of steps in a finishing process. Sand between coats, buff, wax, apply 3, 4 or even 5 coats of varnish, etc. I can't help but think "yeah that's easy on a flat surface, or on individual components", but when the dresser (for example) is all glued up and assembled, do I really need to do all those stps on every nook and cranny? Maybe just the top and the sides. What about the trim? It all still has to look evenly finished.

  2. #2
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    Finish the outside parts that are seen. There is no need to finish the inside of something unless it gets reqular use, such as the inside of a cabinet or armoire...and then do NOT use anything oil-based. Shellac, lacquer (if you can safely spray it) or water borne for that. For the bed, it can be a good idea to put as least most of your finishing regimen on the back side of the headboard to even moisture/movement, but you can skip the "finish the finish" steps if it's not going to be seen.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Thanks Jim, I agree. I definitely put the priority on the visible areas, and did most of the finishing on the back of the headboard. I'm really not set up to spray anything, strictly brushing or preferably wipe-on finishes for me.

    Is my thinking right though, that on a bureau for example, that the sides and trim work are not as important as the top and front, which are more visible and see more wear and tear? Or does every visible surface need to have the full finish regimen?

    David

  4. #4
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    Every visible surface should have the same degree of attention...IMHO. They still get seen and fondled in most cases, if not now due to position...at some point.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Finish the outside parts that are seen. There is no need to finish the inside of something unless it gets reqular use, such as the inside of a cabinet or armoire...and then do NOT use anything oil-based. Shellac, lacquer (if you can safely spray it) or water borne for that. For the bed, it can be a good idea to put as least most of your finishing regimen on the back side of the headboard to even moisture/movement, but you can skip the "finish the finish" steps if it's not going to be seen.
    Jim
    On my hall tables w/ drawers and Stickly desks I have used oils on the inside of the drawers. Your saying that we shouldnt use oils because ?
    Just curious.......
    I Love My Dedicated Machines ! And My Dedicated Wife Loves Me !

  6. #6
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    I'll say the smell. We'll wait to see what Jim says. I always shellac insides. Well, I shellac outsides when it is appropriate.

    David

    Quote Originally Posted by Seth Poorman
    Jim
    On my hall tables w/ drawers and Stickly desks I have used oils on the inside of the drawers. Your saying that we shouldnt use oils because ?
    Just curious.......

  7. #7
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    Yes...oil based products will pretty much off-gas their smell "forever" in enclosed spaces. Use shellac, lacquer or water borne products, especially if clothing or other absorbent materials will be stored in the piece. You can usually 'seal' exisiting oil finishes to reduce the problem with shellac after the fact.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Queen Creek, Arizona
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    What I like to do

    I like to finish everything as if it were going to be seen with the exception of the inside of cases. Yea, it is a bit of overkill, but I am like that. But I guess that is why I finish 1 piece every 3 years.
    I just want to live happily ever after,
    every now and then.

    -- Jimmy Buffett

  9. #9
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    Thanks to everyone for your advice. I guess I won't be getting off light on the finishing!

    David

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