Help Prospective 'Neander Out!

[Keith Starosta]

'Afternoon, guys! I've been slowly trying to get myself motivated to buy my first hand plane. I am reading a lot on the topic, and think I'm gaining at least a "book" knowledge of the many, many different planes out there. But, ya ain't got nuthin if ya ain't got practical experience, so I ask you this...

For a guy just starting out in this area, can you recommend a style or type of plane as sort of a kick-start? Is there a method to the madness as far as the collection and use of these beautiful tooks, or is it just "buy it as you need it"? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Keith

[Scott Quesnelle]

Do you already have a well equipped shop?

If you do, then the first plane I would suggest is a block plane. Very handy for touching stuff up and trimming end grain. Can be carried around in your apron and generally is a good complement to a set of power tools. Order after that would probably be something like a Jack plane (such as a Stanley #5) or a smoother (such as a Stanley #4).

If you don't have a well equipped shop. What do you need the plane to do? Bench planes are used for the following tasks.

Scrub plane - Used on wood straight from the mill, removes the outer fur and lets you get it rougly flat.

Jack Plane - Used to go from roughly flat to flat

Jointer plane - Used for jointing edges and getting things even flatter. It is longer than a jack plane.

Smooth plane - Used to get the wood nice and glassy smooth. Is shorter than a jack plane usually.

If you don't have a well equipped shop, get a jack plane, then a smoother, then a scrub, then a jointer. Not sure where I would put a block plane in that list though. It does need to be in that list somewhere though.

Will you be doing joint work or just surface work with the planes?

If you do your rabbets with a router, and your tenons with a table saw, then you don't need a shoulder plane or a rabbet plane.

Otherwise here is a list of planes for different joints. Most of the names are pretty self explanatory.

Rabbet Plane. Is used to make rabbets. Comes in different widths. It also comes skewed and not skewed. This refers to whether the blade is 90 degrees to the side or if it is on an angle to the side. The angling of the blade makes for a smoother cut. This skewing can be useful with bench planes, turn the plane on a slight angle but still push it forward. The plane looks like a car doing a skid.

Dado plane. Is like a rabbet plane but is used for cross grain work. Has a nicker, this cuts the fibers to prevent tearout.

Plow (Plough) plane. Is used to make grooves. Has a fence attached.

Shoulder plane. Is a rabbet plane with a low angle on it. Is used to clean up/tune the shoulders on tenons.

Molding planes. Used for making different moldings.

And a ton more fun planes.

I would suggest the following books.

Traditional handtools by Graham Blackburn
The complete woodworker by Bernard E. Jones (Actually its just edited by him)

Scott Quesnelle

[Tom Scott]

Keith,
This same question is asked a lot and you are likely (scratch that, make it guaranteed) to get a lot of different opinons.

First, I would say that a good block plane (I suggest the low angle if you only have one) is a definite must-have whether a neander or Normite. These are indispensable for trimming, fine tuning, etc.

After that, it really depends on how you want to use your hand tools. Do you have a specific application that you are wanting to start with?

If you are thinking that your first task will be smoothing, then a #4 or #4 1/2 (my preference due to the extra mass) would be a good place to start. I would usually recommend these as a starter plane anyway since I think they are a little easier to initially get tuned well and start making shavings. of course, maybe I just think that since a #4 was my first plane.

Another good option for a bench plane would be a #6. These are a bit longer and could be used for flattening smaller panels, some jointing applications, as well as smoothing.

There is no single all-purpose plane. Just remember that this is a very slippery slope you are standing on and once you begin to slide, this will not be your last plane to buy. You will soon be needing a #7 for jointing and flattening large panels, a shoulder plane for trimming, etc.

Good luck and enjoy the ride.

Tom

[Roger Myers]

Keith,
Both Tom and Scott have given excellent advice and I would also agree that a low angle block would be my first choice...but, I would also add a couple of more points..
Since this is your first venture into hand planes, I would suggest that you invest in a high quality plane (LN, Lee Valley, etc) If your first plane is a purchase from one of the big boxes, or from ebay, you are likely to disapointed and frustrated with the experience....older planes are a joy to tune and use, but this requires a little experience and certainly some patience. I'd also suggest Hack's book, and also Leonard Lee's book on sharpening....While the LN may be almost ready to use "out of the box" you will still need to develop the sharpening skills...(you also need some basic shapening materials - water or diamond stones, or paper and plate for "scary sharp") - start out with, and maintain sharp hand tools, and you will be quickly sliding down the slippery slope!
Roger

[Jim Becker]

I was talking with "Ted" at the L-N booth at the Woodworks show this past weekend. When I expressed my keen pleasure with their low-angle adjustable mouth block plane, he told me that it's probably their most popular tool and the one that more folks start out with than any other. It's a most versatile plane type for general woodworking and one that can/will probably be used on every project. (I know mine is and I "meander to the neander" only incidentally for the most part) So I'd have to say that a low-angle adjustable throat plane may be a good choice for you to start out with...regardless of the name on it. And from there, start counting your pennies as you'll undoubtedly want more!

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. It's a great help. Since this is the first time I've ever thought about making this jump, I was a bit taken aback by how much a quality hand plane would set me back. The descriptions and uses that you posted will go along way in helping me. I think the basic low-angle block plane is the way to go at first. With a little prodding in the right direction, maybe Santa might just drop one in my stocking this year!

Thanks again!

Keith

[Tom Stovell]

Keith,
When I first started out woodworking I got involved with the local historical society through a friend. I met all sorts of gentlemen who had shops set up to recondition antiques. I was exposed to a variety of techniques, but everyone of those woodworkers had a bunch of old tools they would let me try out. I think these older gents are a source of knowledge that we should try to access more often.

Now that I am getting near the other end of things in terms of age, I'll probably get back in touch with the Society just to help out someone young and inexperienced.

I have also been in many shops where there isn't a handtool to be found. I'd hate for you to spend big $$ on a tool that sits in a drawer.

Tom