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Thread: Are Watco, Seal-a-Cell, and Beall buff compatible?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Are Watco, Seal-a-Cell, and Beall buff compatible?

    I posted this over in the Finishing Forum earlier today and haven't had any replies. Should have posted it here anyway, you guys are the most likely to have answers to this kind of stuff.

    I put three coats of Watco on a bowl this morning (cherry). I was going to Beall buff it tonight but then the instruction label caught my eye, about applying a wipe-on finish after 72 hours if desired. Hmm. That would definitely build a finish on this piece and result in a much happier recipient!

    But I need to ask first: If I use Seal-a-Cell on top of the Watco, will I still be able to Beall buff it? My instincts say it's OK but my instincts aren't always right!

  2. #2
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    Yes. (How's that for a succinct answer...)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Yes. (How's that for a succinct answer...)
    It may be succint but it's all I really needed. I figured if there were any "red flags" someone would've said so. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    Mark, haven't used seal-a-cell - but the cherry bowl I posted this past week has 2 coats of watco and then beal buffed. I did wait for 72 hours before buffing and the finish is great! If that helps.
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
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  5. #5
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    Jul 2005
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    You can buff, or sand, or "rub out" with very fine sandpaper and automotive compounds, any film finish, long as you don't overdo it and break though a layer. You must let it cure thoroughly first, though. If you're using laquer or shellac, it dries very fast, but it CURES hard over several days. This is a way to get a deep glasslike finish, if that's what you're going for. If not, you can leave it dull to whatever degree you want depending on what you last used to sand or rub it.


  6. #6
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    why I'm always anxious about these kinds of things

    About 12-13 years ago I was learning some new (to me) things about finishing, one of which was glazing. I was ready to finish a bookcase and was all excited about trying something new. The glaze I used had a "bad" reaction with the lacquer; when I sprayed lacquer after the glaze dried it "crackled" on me. I had to get a gallon of stripper and completely scrape all finish from that bookcase, and I almost took it to the dump out of frustration. I swore I would never let myself get screwed by a finish again, if I could possibly prevent it from happening.

    So today, this many years later, that incident still haunts me and visions of it arise every time I ponder something I have not yet done in the way of finishing. I probably asked a stupid question. But not a tenth as stupid as I would feel if I let the Watco sit for the prescribed time, applied Seal-a-Cell, let it dry, and beall buffed it only to see it peel off.

    BTW, the aforementioned bookcase still stands in our living room, a constant reminder of a finishing accident (but also a reminder of something I chose not to give up on). After stripping and washcoating, I re-stained it, poly'd it, and rubbed out the finish. It was actually a fairly good save.
    Last edited by Mark Pruitt; 12-04-2006 at 8:06 AM.

  7. #7
    No worries, as long as you wait the recommended cure time. Longer if your shop is cold now.
    Experience is knowledge gained, right after you needed it.

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