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Thread: Cleanup after spraying BIN

  1. #1

    Question Cleanup after spraying BIN

    I just bought a new spray system (SLIM SP) and am about to spray my first project. This project needs to be painted. I'll use waterborn pigmented paint but first need to prime it.

    I am planning on spraying Zinsser BIN and need to make sure I have the proper solvent on hand for a quick cleanup. Zinsser says to use amonia, but that seems...smelly. Searching around I see that alcohol is a possibility. Specifically. does that mean denatured alcohol?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Shoreline, CT
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    Yes, denatured alcohol is what is meant.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
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    4,563
    I'm curious as to what you're painting. Zinsser BIN has its place as a primer, but it's not the best to use for everything. Its best trait is that it is a sealer--thanks to its quick-dry, shellac nature, but if you don't need its stain-sealing properties, a sandable acrylic primer would be better in my opinion.

    Steve's right--DNA is the stuff, ammonia would work too. The reason they suggest to use it is that it is much cheaper, especially when you flush the system for a while.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  4. #4
    I've built a bunkbed for my daughter out of poplar and it's time to paint it. I'm just priming the raw wood before painting it. No stains to cover. What other suggestions do you have? I'm going to use a waterborn tinted/pigmented lacquer instead of latex.

    J. C.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
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    4,563
    Hmmm...I don't really have any experience with pigmented lacquer, so I can't give any concrete recommendations, though lacquer, having strong solvents in it, seems to do well over most other finishes/primers. The reason I don't care for BIN as an all-purpose primer is that it is very thin and flashes off into a very smooth surface--not necessarily good for a primer. You want a primer to flash off with a little bit of a tooth. A quick sanding then knocks off imperfections, nibs and raised grain, and you're ready for finish. I do know there are (very sandable) lacquer primers available. I'm always one to stick to similar solvents throughout a finishing process if possible.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  6. #6
    Well, I will tell you what works for me, I coat all surfaces with a 1.5lb cut of de-waxed shellac then top coat with water base primer. I spray pigmentated acrylic lacquor. I buy white pigmentated lacquor (water base) and have it tinted to what ever color I want at the paint store. They charge me for the tinting of the material.
    Good Luck:
    Don Selke

    Julius A. Dooman & Son Woodworking
    My Mentor, My teacher. "Gone but not forgotton"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,983
    Hello,
    +1 to everything Jason said.
    BIN is without a doubt the best product you can want to seal in stains - and odors too - but it makes a poor undercoat or finer finishing.
    Better products are available.

    As always, check the Mfg/s recommendations.
    Select you final finish and work backwards as to what is recommended as an undercoat.

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