I would like to try them but unfortunately I have a unifence.
I would like to try them but unfortunately I have a unifence.
I am pretty sure it works with the UniFence...check with Peach Tree woodworking. BB will raise the level of accuracy.Originally Posted by Brian Knop
"All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"
There is an alternative fence available for UniFence users that accomodates jigs like this. Just slide off the OEM fence and slide on the auxiliary fence. In fact, if you click on the link I supplied in the first sentence of this post and scroll down, you'll see a drawing of the Board Buddies... ...and the available mount if you don't want to "roll your own".Originally Posted by Brian Knop
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Hi Roy,
Thanks for the review of the BB. They are now on my list. I noticed your blade guard with the DC attached. Is that a SawStop option or other vendor, and what is the daimeter if the hose? Does the weight of the hose affect the function of either of the joints of the guard? I bought an extra guard but haven't come up with a design for the setup yet and this looks like a simple solution. Thanks, John.
Excellent review Roy....Now they are on my list of things to get. Maybe on next years Christmas list.
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
I have used 'em on my RAS for years. Have the yellow, green, and orange. Got all so I can use them for multiple operations. Money well spent in my mind (such as it is ).
Bill
"You can even get half way through a long cut - stop - walk around the saw - and then pull it on through with complete safety and accuracy."
Interesting...maybe I should reconsider the need for an outfeed table - if the stock can be handled well enough to get it onto the saw and the cut started, it ought to be easy enough to pull through from the back.
Thoughts?
Well, I have a short outfeed table. It extends out about a foot - then has a hinge...and hangs down to the floor when not in use. I believe the hinged portion is 30 inches or so......giving 42" approx. total outfeed. I think a minumum setup like mine is fairly essential. This length has been adequate for up to 8' long boards no problem.Originally Posted by Noah Katz
John,Originally Posted by John Bush
I've have had quite a few creekers inquire about my Sawstop blade guard DC setup......
I'll start a new thread tonight with all sorts of photos and details....it has been very good!
SO I had these on my unifence. You can see the mounts for them on the first picture. The mount was attached to a hardwood face that I left on the fence as I never rotated that fence body. I also made a BigaFence for the other fence, here is one shown in picture two. Search for Bigafence on google and you will find his site. I always wanted the UniTFence but after making the bigafence wich was free I did not need it.Originally Posted by Jim Becker
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
I want to talk more about how to attach the BBs to the bies. A member asked if it is enough to just tap the fence with a self drilling screw. What do people recommend for the Bies designs? I have the aluminum track they well with the BBs. I have not tried to attach it to my Sawstop yet. Any advice?
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
Mike -Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick
I don't think you should permanently attach them to the fence...My Opinion only...
I attached the wooden platform (that houses the mini track) to the SS fence with 4 #10 x1.5" long self tapping machine screws....I drilled four 1/8th inch pilot holes first - then screwed in the self tapping bolts to secure the track/wood platform.
Can you use the BB's on a bandsaw when resawing to keep your lumber against the fence and apply constant pressure? Is it worth the effort?
Sometimes when I'm resawing and reposition my guide hand, the wood will move away from the fence a bit and that's just more wood I have to waste to remove that divot.
Sounds like the self tapping should work, but when I mounted my bb's to my Jet fence, I drilled two 1/4 holes then I slid a piece of oak with "t" nuts installed on the bottom and a couple of piece of foam tape on the top inside the fence. Once I pulled it together with some hex/caps screws the oak board (piece of old flooring) stuck to the inside top of the fence extrusion and has been there for a couple of years. It was quick and easy to repostion the board that had the bb's attached to the fence with a couple of spins of the allen wrench.
I made a similar set up to mount the bb's on my router table when I need to put a 60degree bevel on 2000 feet of 1/4 birch plywood "planks." In that case, I drilled the MDF fence and inserted some square nuts. I used the same board mounted bb's and could switch them back and forth beween tb and router table as I ripped and edge treated 16 sheets of 1/4 plywood into 5 3/4 inch planks.
Busy scanning the "honey do" list for tool buying opportunities.
"I think a minumum setup like mine is fairly essential. This length has been adequate for up to 8' long boards no problem."
My question is why is an outfeed table is needed any more than an infeed table.
W/o BB's, the answer is that it's way too easy to rotate the stock and mess up the cut, but it seems they address that.
Thanks